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As I see a lot of different exhausts. 4-4 4-1 4-2 and such I wonder what kind of sound difference they make. The 4-4 that's on my cb550 now is quiet . A bit too quiet..
I like quiet starts and idling but would also want a nice growl when moving... Nothing screaming like a banshee that would attract cops from 3 blocks away. But Loud enough so even the most distracted driver will hear me.
The only driver that will hear it will already be behind ya. The pipe configuration has much less to do with noise level that the mufflers/silencers/baffles, whatever... Open up the pies and youll get more noise.
You'll get a million different answers. I like the 4-4 (or 2-2 or 3-3) because it lets each cylinder inhale/exhaust seperately. Makes tuning a bit easier.
As far as I am aware, 4 into 1 is better for top end, 4 into 4 is better for low end, 4 into 2 is best for mid range.
That is a VERY rough guide, so many more factors impact this.
But as a rough guide, it will do.
4 into 1 generally gives the best power... in your case its best.
more important than how many pipes is if they are at the proper tuned length. in short and EXTREMELY general terms, short pipe will move the powerband towards the higher rpm... while a long pipe will move it lower in the rpm range.
Wow, definitely did not think there would be THIS much to exhaust systems. I always thought they were mostly for looks/ shiny chrome!
So it looks like with all this new info.. I am leaning towards a 4-1 exhaust. I have seen some exhausts online for other models and the next question is what do i need to look for to make sure that the exhaust fits? besides the pipe diameter.
Just from my experience, you'll need one that fits your particular year and engine bike, but if you made your own rearsets (in a different location than stock), it may not work. How do I know? Because I just went through it. Now, I have to reconfigure my brake pedal. If your footrests, shifter and brake are in the stock location, you should be just fine. Maybe somebody has more experience than I do with this, but thats what I just found out.
Read Performance Tuning in theory and practice By: A Graham Bell.... TONS on how every inch and angle affects the exhaust.
exhaust systems must be for the same model as your own. clearances are really tight.
either find one (probably something like a mac, which look like junk IMHO), or build one from the headers back.
do some reasearch... lots of research. if your not racing having a perfect exhaust is not necessary, but if your gonna build it, might as well get close as you can.
oh, and as for the importance of an exhaust system... 2 strokes literally live and die by their expansion chambers/ exhaust systems.
Sweet mother of pearl, we gonna sticky my 'Tuning' thread yet or what? ;D
Just bumped it for you mate, theres a fair bit of info in there for what you can do just on the simple level of messing with your bikes intake and exhaust. Theres also a lot of theory on why those modifications are good for performance. The exerpt of the exhaust part goes something like this:
Well designed 'X'-into-one systems let the exhaust pulses flow more smoothly and quickly, with the low pressure area immediately behind the pulse from cylinder 'a' helping to suck the following pulse from cylinder 'b' along. This effect is what is partially known as 'scavenging', and will impact your performance by allowing the cylinders to become more completely clear of spent exhaust gases before the next intake cycle. Less exhaust gases hanging around means more room for air/fuel mix, which 99% of the time translates into more power. This improved scavenging may also give you the benefit of better fuel economy and slightly cooler running temps.
Conversely, this is also why turbocharged engines often have poorer fuel economy than their natually aspirated counterparts, as the turbo vanes effectively block any exhaust scavenging effect.
Man am I glad I Askd this rookie qustion... Definitely gonna invest a lot of time reading and checkin evEry detail now. If I was to build my own exhaust from the headers I have on now. Which look pretty solid. Does the metrial impact performace ? Besides lighter the better...
I was thinking of making my own out of stainless steel. Is it still powder coatable ? Or would aluminum work better ?
Thanks guys, if I see any of you I'm definitely buyin drinks
stainless is best, as long as you have the means of welding it. mild steel is just fine and a bit cheaper. nearly no paint works right. if its stainless id leave it raw. if you go the mild steel route, chrome is an option but is pricy. ceramic paint seems to be the only stuff that TRULY works. even exhaust paint doesnt have a high enough temperature for headers.
I found a MAC4-1 system on flebay and was wondering if I go that route do I need to/ should I get pod filters and rejet or can I still rock a stOck airbox?
'Performance tuning' of exhaust systems has been going on since 1860's.
There is still very little actual information as manufacturers are very jealous of their research.
There is not much generic information either really, 1 book and a chapter in couple of other books, one page in many 'tuning' manuals
4-1 seems to be giving best performance/weight or they wouldn't be used on every sportbike.
Exhaust system is more than just a hole wrapped in metal, majority are made for looks not performance
eg, 'drag pipes' on stock Harley Sportster 883 loose 8bhp, even when jetted right
I found a MAC4-1 system on flebay and was wondering if I go that route do I need to/ should I get pod filters and rejet or can I still rock a stOck airbox?
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