Ditching the starter

relative q

New Member
Bike is a 77 CB550F. Starter is dead, PO cut off all the wires, and I'm running a custom electronics job with a tiny battery so I couldn't run it anyway. Anyone taken their starter out permanently? How would I go about plugging up the area vacated by my starter motor?
 
I dropped the starter on my 71 350 ice bike. not sure how it mounts on a 500 but on the 350 you're left with a circular hole to fill. I turned up a round plastic plug and held in place with screws drilled radially into it. The plug was a nice snug fit so there was no need for an O ring to seal it & the hole is up high on the engine so oil leaks arn't likely.

A buddy dropped the starter from 360 race bike - he just make up a disc and bolted it on by drilling a hole in the left cover. it works fine but not as elegabt as my solution.

Anything that seals the hole and passes rule #56 ("looks pleaseing to the eye") should do it.
 
I don't know if it will work on your bike, but I bought a DropBars plug that is VERY light. It is two piece and CNC from 6061-T6. PM mysta2 for a set.

--Chris
 
I'm thinking I might design my own plug, seeing as I've got this CNC mill at my house. Depends on if it'll fit on my mill; it's a small one.
 
I have my old one available if anyone is interested. It has not been tested though.

StarterDelete.jpg


ClutchPolished.jpg


StarterPolished.jpg


--Chris
 
this is what came off my bike:

starterstrip01.jpg


plus the wires, button, and solenoid.


I've got 2 left, that I'm selling at $40 (discounted because on this first run the lettering came out fatter than I wanted)

startblock17.jpg


startblock20.jpg


the back plate might require some sanding to fit... I've never fit one to a 550 before.
 
^How did you wire it without the solenoid in line?

Cheapest and easiest would be a 1 3/4" freeze plug from your local auto parts store. Works good.

About $3.
 
Fear My Twin said:
^How did you wire it without the solenoid in line?

Cheapest and easiest would be a 1 3/4" freeze plug from your local auto parts store. Works good.

About $3.

There's nothing left to wire, the solenoid isn't in line to anything but the starter, all it is is a momentary switch directly linking the battery to the starter, it doesn't control anything else.
 
Yeah, but you still need a relay so that when the key is twisted to the [on] position, the relay closes. Without this, all the ignition current goes through the key switch. I've seen tons of chopper wiring diagrams wired this way, but surely the switch burns out after a while. Relays are cheap and easy to use and light as well.

Kit's right though: there is no need for a seperate relay for the momentary start button because there is no starter.

--Chris
 
Please excuse my ignorance, but are you going to still use a battery. I was thinking of going without a starter and was wondering if I still need to have a battery. Someone told me I do because the alternator will put out too much voltage for the system to handle without a place to store it and burn some stuff up.

Thanks fellas
 
I'm still using a battery, but I'm switching to a really tiny one, as all it needs to do is run the lights. I bought a lead-acid gel battery that weighs about a pound and measures about 3x5x1 for like $20 at a local battery shop.
 
Yeah, you need a battery because the charging system doesn't begin until higher RPMs. Without a battery, nothing will work at idle.

You're thinking of a rectifier, which you also need.

--Chris
 
Well, what are you trying to do? Do you want to hide it completely or is it OK if an 1" or so is visible? I think 2aH is the minimum needed. Basically, look for a 2 aH battery (or preferably above) that is most like what you're looking for and buy it.

I, personally, will try the 2.4aH. If that doesn't work, I can add more. It's a long story that I'm 95% certain it will work--I've discussed the plan with electrical engineers at work who approved. Have a look at my website for the details. Feel free to ask more questions.

--Chris
 
mysta2 said:
this is what came off my bike:

starterstrip01.jpg


plus the wires, button, and solenoid.


I've got 2 left, that I'm selling at $40 (discounted because on this first run the lettering came out fatter than I wanted)

startblock17.jpg


startblock20.jpg


the back plate might require some sanding to fit... I've never fit one to a 550 before.

all you had left was the altenator right? i decided to take my startor off i just want to eliminate as much wiring as possible. once i take the startor out and other componets and blockoff the hole it should be good to go right?
 
relative q said:
I'm thinking I might design my own plug, seeing as I've got this CNC mill at my house. Depends on if it'll fit on my mill; it's a small one.

Shouldnt be a problem to make plug, even if you have a Taig (sp?) just takes longer to make on mini, mini machine.
The case hole is 30mm, heres a pic as I have one in pieces lying about ;D
Its completely different to CB350/360/450, no way to get at reduction gears without full engine strip, they are buried in middle of motor
Bike has EMS generator, wont charge at all without battery.

PJ
 
chrisf said:
Well, what are you trying to do? Do you want to hide it completely or is it OK if an 1" or so is visible? I think 2aH is the minimum needed. Basically, look for a 2 aH battery (or preferably above) that is most like what you're looking for and buy it.

I, personally, will try the 2.4aH. If that doesn't work, I can add more. It's a long story that I'm 95% certain it will work--I've discussed the plan with electrical engineers at work who approved. Have a look at my website for the details. Feel free to ask more questions.

--Chris

not to mention whether or not you are running LEDs... if you are in fact running leds then you dont need as large a battery as you would if you werent.
 
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