Does anyone have a kick only wire diagram?

1976cb356

1976cb356

Twins FTW
I am in the process of learning how to wire my 76 cb360. I am running guages, headlight, tailight, battery, kick only. I have the rectifier and regulators, but dont know if i still need that regulator. I also have the flasher just dont know if I need all of them. Any help I would appreciate it. Thanks!! :)
 
Yes, you need the regulator etc. If you want to wire it sans electric foot, just remove the starter and starter clutch and starter solenoid (relay) and basically leave the rest stock. Get a wiring diagram to show you what colors go where, but don't start hacking at the loom unless you know what you are doing.

Quite frankly, I'd leave the electric starter in place and use it, but that's me.
 
Send me a pm and remind me ill send you one tomorrow. You'll need the reg/rec.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
 
teazer said:
Yes, you need the regulator etc. If you want to wire it sans electric foot, just remove the starter and starter clutch and starter solenoid (relay) and basically leave the rest stock. Get a wiring diagram to show you what colors go where, but don't start hacking at the loom unless you know what you are doing.

Quite frankly, I'd leave the electric starter in place and use it, but that's me.
Click to expand...

Yea I agree but just dont have money for a expensive small battery, and trying to cut weight and simplify it. I almost figured out the loom but got lost in it haha. thanks a lot for the help
 
You would be surprised what a small(ish) AGM battery costs. No need for a Lithium battery.

Try a YTZ7S for size and see if it starts the bike. They are cheap enough on fleabay.
 
1976cb356 said:
Yea I am running a small battery, just not even close to enough amps to run a starter.
Click to expand...
You could always run a capacitor with your (smaller) battery tied into it. I did this on my neighbor's CB360, using the stock wiring harness. With both in place, the bike could be kickstarted with both head and tail lights. I switched the tail out to an LED unit to reduce draw and planned on doing the same with the T-signals. Right now it's still running smaller non-LED signals.

It's a bit redundant, but at least my neighbor can still run his bike if the battery ever craps out. Unless he turns on the high-beam, turn signals and his brake light while using the horn at a standstill...... :eek:

For the record, I used a 12v, 2,000mAh (2amp) camcorder battery from Radioshack. The battery cost me $2 on clearance.


Edited for cleanliness
 
arcspeedworks said:
You could always run a capacitor with your (smaller) battery tied into it. I did this on my neighbor's CB360, using the stock wiring harness. With both in place, the bike could be kickstarted with both head and tail lights. I switched the tail out to an LED unit to reduce draw and planned on doing the same with the T-signals. Right now it's still running smaller non-LED signals.

It's a bit redundant, but at least my neighbor can still run his bike if the battery ever craps out. Unless he turns on the high-beam, turn signals and his brake light while using the horn at a standstill...... :eek:

For the record, I used a 12v, 2,000mAh (2amp) camcorder battery from Radioshack. The battery cost me $2 on clearance.


Edited for cleanliness
Click to expand...

Thats good to know, if I have any problems with the battery I got, which i wouldn't doubt at all, I will have to do that. Thanks for the advice
 
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