Doing away with idiot lights and misc electrical questions (75 cb400f)

timeconsuming

Foolish until proven intelligent.
I personally hate the look of the stock cluster between the gauges so I unplugged the connectors and took it out.

3Ma3L73m35If5L45G9cbba0118924762e17d0.jpg


idiot-light-cluster.jpg


idiot-light-cluster-2.jpg


I recently picked up a new headlight and it has a nice little indicator light built into the top.

I plan on using the indicator light in the new headlight as a Neutral indicator.

new-headlight-wires-and-indicator-light.jpg


Question: What do I need to do to not screw up my electrical? Do I simply unplug the connections for the stock idiot lights, wire in a connection for my neutral light to the new headlight's indicator cable, and call it a day? Potentially pull out all the excess wire from the colorful assortment of cables that lead to the stock idiot cluster to clean things up? I noticed there are a ton of green ground wires that were shoved into my stock headlight, so I'm curious what needs to stay and what can go.

Onward:

I also noticed a mysterious electrical wire or two coming from my clutch cable.

weird-clutch-electrical-cables.jpg


I couldn't find it anywhere in my wiring diagram so I figured I'd ask if anyone knew what it was there for. Any guesses?

Further:

I also pulled out the dash lights on the speedo.

speedo-dash-lights.jpg


Anything special I need to do with where those cables connected to the wiring harness? Or just remove and be done with em?

Continued:

I don't really have a good place to mount my front blinkers so I'm considering removing them altogether and running just the back ones.

front-turn-signals-ground-wire.jpg


They're aftermarket signals, and the PO had wired in a ground cable for each signal. How can I remove these front signals and keep the back signals functioning properly?



Thanks for any insight guys!
 
For any of the wires you dont want you can cut them out and then cap them in shrink wrap, or if I were you id just go ahead and shrink wrap/electrical tape over the stock connectors, never know when you might want more lights!

The clutch switch is what allows the bike to only start with the clutch pulled. You can bypass it by simply grounding the green and red wire.( connecting the two in your picture) (be aware that this will allow your starter to turn even when the clutch isnt pulled in and you're not in neutral)

Your rear signals will have their own ground, so you can toss the front ones.

PM me your email address and ill send you over a US wiring diagram that should help you out.

Heres my 400f's dash
81480FB2-3F6C-4D9D-BD7A-6B16FC31E170-46367-000009407E4764C4_zpscc8a2bbc.jpg

53A69577-1F4E-4A8C-90BD-AEB566350BAC-46367-00000940839F67E2_zps4aa43008.jpg

Build thread below
 
timeconsuming said:
I personally hate the look of the stock cluster between the gauges so I unplugged the connectors and took it out.

3Ma3L73m35If5L45G9cbba0118924762e17d0.jpg


idiot-light-cluster.jpg


idiot-light-cluster-2.jpg


I recently picked up a new headlight and it has a nice little indicator light built into the top.

I plan on using the indicator light in the new headlight as a Neutral indicator.

new-headlight-wires-and-indicator-light.jpg


Question: What do I need to do to not screw up my electrical? Do I simply unplug the connections for the stock idiot lights, wire in a connection for my neutral light to the new headlight's indicator cable, and call it a day? Potentially pull out all the excess wire from the colorful assortment of cables that lead to the stock idiot cluster to clean things up? I noticed there are a ton of green ground wires that were shoved into my stock headlight, so I'm curious what needs to stay and what can go.

You can remove the idiot lights all together. Check the diagram to figure out wich wire has wich function and wire accordingly. You DO have a manual, do you?

Onward:

I also noticed a mysterious electrical wire or two coming from my clutch cable.

weird-clutch-electrical-cables.jpg


I couldn't find it anywhere in my wiring diagram so I figured I'd ask if anyone knew what it was there for. Any guesses?

It's a safety switch. When bike is in gear you're able to start it, resulting in a battery-powered bike. Do not want. This switch prevents that because the clutch has to be pulled to be able to start

Further:

I also pulled out the dash lights on the speedo.

speedo-dash-lights.jpg


Anything special I need to do with where those cables connected to the wiring harness? Or just remove and be done with em?

You might want to use one set of wires to light up your new dash. If you dont want the lights anymore, just heatshrink the plugs and put inside the headlight bucket. No problem.

Continued:

I don't really have a good place to mount my front blinkers so I'm considering removing them altogether and running just the back ones.

front-turn-signals-ground-wire.jpg


They're aftermarket signals, and the PO had wired in a ground cable for each signal. How can I remove these front signals and keep the back signals functioning properly?

Signals work with a relay. The 'click-clack-click-clack' box. It has a bi-metal wich makes contact when you turn the swith for left or right. It get's hot due to current and the bi-metal switches off, resulting in a cool-down and making contact again. It has a build-in resistance wich works for 2 signal-lights (front and rear) When you remove one of them, the relay gets confused and will start to make really fast click-clacks, or nothing at all. Fast is ok, but nothing at all will melt the relay over time. Check the wattage of the rear signal lights and buy the right relay.


Thanks for any insight guys!
 
Nice starter button btw XD

You know, i think i would just make a new wiring harness. If you're ditching that amount of wires, you can go simple and clean. I can post a cleaned-up diagram here, but a little search will do as well.
 
Haha yeah the PO wired in that janky little starter button... I actually just ordered up some new switches so I'm looking to clean my bar area up a bit (even have some clubman bars to put on, so I'm excited to change things up a bit).

Thanks for the responses to all my seemingly inane questions.

Right now I'm cataloging the wiring colors and their functions so I can be sure I ditch what I don't want and keep what I need.

I'm looking forward to doing a little spring cleaning on my wiring harness, though I'm not sure if I have an ideal amount of money/tools/time to spend making a whole new harness from scratch just yet. But that is definitely something I plan on doing down the road.



Question:

I ordered 2 of these switches: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-electronic-parts-retro-chrome-handlebar-turn-signal-blinker-switch-46-68900.html

46-68900-tsswitch-vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-streetfighter-motorcycle-parts-retro-chrome-switch-2_1.jpg


How difficult will it be to wire in a headlight off function into the 3 position part of the switch, considering that the stock wiring has no headlight off mode?

Thanks!
 
Thanks again for sending over the US wiring diagram, definitely helps when you're looking at everything and the colors actually match up!

Another question:

It looks like the stock turn signals were rated at 23W and my aftermarket signals are 21W. They functioned perfectly with all four attached, however after I removed the front ones, the rear would no longer flash, simple illuminate with no blinking at all. I'm not sure what the stock relay is rated at, or even how to calculate the rating for getting a new relay to function with just the two 21W flashers in back. Anyone care to shed some light? Thanks!
 
You'll need an electronic flasher relay to work with that draw.
Just go to auto zone or a truck stop and get an "electronic" flasher relay. They generally say "for LEDs" on them. That will fix that problem
 
You'll need an electronic flasher relay to work with that draw.
Just go to auto zone or a truck stop and get an "electronic" flasher relay. They generally say "for LEDs" on them. That will fix that problem
 
Nice, that's what I was figurin'.

Also just scoped your build thread... all that powder coating looks great man! My poor dirty bike is very jealous.
 
timeconsuming said:
Nice, that's what I was figurin'.

Also just scoped your build thread... all that powder coating looks great man! My poor dirty bike is very jealous.

Thanks man I appreciate it :D
 
I've got a can or two of hi-temp rusto that I've been meaning to share with a few bits here and there... might have to play around with that while I have my bike in non-op mode this week.
 
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