Down under, an idiot and a 400F

That confused the hell out of me spotty :D

Probably overkill anyway as I'm sure the under subframe tray is going to let a tonne of air through.
 
neevo said:
That confused the hell out of me spotty :D

Probably overkill anyway as I'm sure the under subframe tray is going to let a tonne of air through.

What I think he is saying is having a external rear facing scoop rather than one set in on the hump. So it will create a vacuum and suck air out rather than force air/water in.

ram air vs cowl induction.
 
Just face the NACA duct the opposite direction, that will create a low pressure area to cool things down.
Do you have design specs for them?
 
yeah, what they said, sorry for the confusing dribble but the beer had kicked in by that time
 
neevo said:
Ah, got it. No design specs PJ, what do you mean?

There are specific depth and length to maximise flow.
also, the radius on the inlet/outlet.
It's clever stuff to minimise drag
The ones you see on something like CBR are just for show, they don't have required shapes and edges
I'll dig it out and try to get it copied
 
Think I might pass then, sounds too complicated and I am sure the rear end will be "leaky" enough to keep things cool.

Another question for the experts here. Just about to order a SS front brake line for my bike. The front end is off a GSXR750 K3 but is married to CBR F3 calipers, would a GSXR brake line kit work or should I build it a bit more custom. I am going for a single line, over the fender style and worried about line length to the right caliper plus the end piece angles on the lines too.

Edit: just on the HEL performance website and you can build your own. Great!!!! Only I've no idea what type of end fitting I need. Banjo seems stock standard but there are loads of others that may be more suitable. Anyone know?
 
when you say build your own, i'm hoping you mean 'spec' your own that HEL build for you, i've had BAD experiences with 'build at home' brake lines, they worked fine for 6 months then stopped working all of a sudden........interesting at 120kmh on the freeway

and apart from anything else, you'll never get the bike registered unless the brake lines have the appropriate AusStandards tag/stamp which only HEL/Goodridge etc can apply

home made ones are illegal and RWC testers will check
 
Spotty, I meant spec them and get HEL to make. They have a build your own section and I wasn't sure what I needed I terms of end fitting etc and how to measure the length appropriately. I will probably get the standard banjos unless anyone can advise me otherwise.
 
You'll need to check threads in calipers and master cylinder. 10x1mm and 10x1.25mm are real common.
Honda almost always use 10x1.25
 
Yeah, that's the easy bit as I can check them with a tap. Was going to stick with standard banjo fitting too as I don't know what the others are.

Any ideas what the mounting options are? I have a spare bolt hole on each fork leg that I could utilise (the top one on rear of fork leg):

9CD299AB-782B-47A7-8EE9-BC03B1C38AEE_zpsq5n3fg12.jpg


Not even sure if it's necessary.
 
That isn't the exact one but the dimensions are the same. The only difference was the design of the 'flat' end, kind of a wing inner section rather than fairing skin
As for brake lines, use something similar to speedo cable guide on GSXR
 
For the past few years I have tried to manage my tools through an overflowing Stanley wheely toolbox plus other bits and pieces dotted around the shed:





Surely there's a better way? I'm sick of taking 20 minutes to find each and every tool!

Well so there is :D

A Father's Day and early Xmas pressie looks like this:



Still looking to get the smaller top box for it too and I should be set for moving into my new shed/garage/workshop in a couple of months.
 
Cool stuff, you'll like it and re-fill all the other boxes with 'essential items' you don't use every day 8)
 
I'm in the process of selling my house (and upgrading the garage space) which meant the bike was round my father in laws. I decided to get it back today as I have put my order in with Cone Engineering and it should be here next week, meaning work on the exhausts has started.

I plan on building a 4-2-1 header with twin exhausts and have purchased the collectors from Cone Eng however plan on having the headers custom bent locally. To make sure I get the headers right I wanted to make templates out of PVC pipe, dropped into my local plumbing suppliers and was disappointed to find out they didn't stock 1.25" pipe :(

Well a quick visit to my local hardware store (Bunnings) and what did they have sitting there? 32mm pipe and fittings! So I now have my PVC pipe to create my header templates:



So I have a few bits in storage at the moment (also in prep for moving) and unfortunately my bike stand was one of the bits, so I used some old concrete bags to lift the bike off the ground... but this identified a problem! I wouldn't be able to build the headers with this makeshift bike stand, as it got in the way of the header routing, oh what to do!!!



Well given I have a TIG welder, loads of square steel stock and time, I thought I would make a paddock stand, so I can hold the bike by the swingarm. Had a look on google images and found a design I liked, with a quick measure around the bike, I had a rough design:



I had to cut the angles with a grinder which was a little rough but in the end I had a rough shape ready to be welded:



Welded:



I braced it at the corners and also returned to the hardware store for some bolts... only to realise my taps are also in storage, bollox! Oh well, I will grab the taps tomorrow and also look to grab some wheels for the bottom corners too. Then it should be ready for a spot of paint, a handle and its ready to test on the bike:



More tomorrow!
 
No idea drduke, I love building it that the idea of finishing is a little scary. Hopefully someone makes me an offer that gets most of my money back and I can do my dream project next :)
 
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