Yeah, it really needs to be tested under load. I was going to wire it in, make a "gauge pod" for it or some sort of mechanism to hold it on (not permanent...although you could if you wanted) then you do typical driving, and roll ons etc. Here's the main website. http://www.zeitronix.com/
Since you are asking. I should be able to see what a/f is at while at idle. That will let me know how the idle circuit is doing. (at a stand still, no need to "drive" the bike for this one) I'm not going to weld in the bung unless I am getting odd readings. The particular bike I am working on has 4-4 exhaust...so I can check each carburetor relatively easily. If it's a 4-1 you are checking all carbs as a whole, making it harder to diagnose which carb might be giving you problems.
Next up, will be a series of runs holding the RPM at different spots to see how the bike is reacting to certain RPMs, say 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000 just to get a bearing of where the A/F is at cruising speeds and mild attitude. (no changes to the carbs yet, just data acquisition) ----unless it's WAYYYYYY OFF.
Then it's finding A/F from 0-1/4 throttle, make sure it's not insanely rich/lean, then 1/4 to 1/2 and 3/4....and lastly WOT. Many times we have to compromise in other places and at WOT you are running REALLY rich or REALLY lean. I'm just tired of looking at plugs that look amazing, like toasted marshmellows....
without much carbon, and dont look lean...yet the bike has dips and funny spots here and there.
Now all of that....is going by reading hundreds of threads from car guys and a few bike guys since the info on doing A/F for motorcycles (especially carbureted ones) is hard as hell to find, I am choosing what I think will work. We'll find out! ;D