SoyBoySigh
Been Around the Block
Re: drilled rotors done cheap. 25$ INFO UPDATE. LAST PAGE.
That's a nice pair of single puck CB750F rotors right there. Or are they off a 'C? Nice anyway.
I have a pair for a GL1000 hub, I'm sticking them on my DOHC CB750F, and I started to drill them but bogged down on the project, sick of breaking cobalt bits. I mean, I was just using a hand drill ... so what an idiot, right? Anyway, I was doing a 4-3 pattern, 1/4" holes, calculated at dropping half of the surface area. Probably a bad idea, ha ha. But I'm looking at bigger calipers, so.... But yeah, what would you think of finishing them for me? I understand if you don't wanna take on something that's already screwed up!
I'd also understand if you felt that it's worth more to drill all of these extra holes!
AND got a KZ disc rear hub. '77 GL1000 up front, '77 KZ750b (twin) rear, and I'm putting nice fat rims on 'em, custom spokes etc, from Buchanan's. For tires I'm shooting for the 110/80zr18 and the 160/60zr18, maybe some funky retro lookin' metzelers. It's getting to look pretty damned expensive, so using the brakes and rotors I've already got, just for the interrim ... it makes good sense, maybe not "enonomically" but "fiscally".
But anyway, I'm looking at doing something different for the rear rotor. I was thinking it should be cut down in diameter to make a spacer that I could bolt up some type of smaller Gixxer or CBR or ZX four-bolt rotor. It will help with the wheel being dished for the chain-line plus CBX off-set sprocket I wanna use, so the right hand spokes are gonna be straight up and down I would bet. IF they can dish it that much, I mean. But yeah, if you could make that spacer for me, or if you could take one of these here CB750F rotors in the above picture, and cut it down to a smaller diameter and drill the crap out of it. It's got the same hole in the center, and one bolt hole lines up perfectly. I realize that the three extra bolt holes would un-balance it ever so slightly, but big deal right? Ha ha.
So yeah, I guess both of those requests relate to the one above about cutting a wave shape into a rotor, 'cause it's about changing the outer shape either way. Whadday say? It sounds like you're doing this just to help the rest of us out, from what I've seen of drilling my own stuff I would bet you're making about half minimum wage on this whole enterprise.... Do you have a bit of advise about what machinery would work best for this type of job?
Obviously, either the hand drill or the titanium and cobalt bits I used were a big mistake. And the use of a 1/8" pilot drill too, that seemed to save the tip of the big one, but only at the expense of breaking a bunch of little guys. I got through about a fifth of a rotor's worth of pilot holes, marking the pattern with a scribe/punch, and then I dropped the lot of it on the floor and went to the computer to look at more rotors. I honestly can't stand the look of the swapped out to modern rotors look, but I can envision this wheel with some kind of late eighties early nineties floating rotors with the more heavily built carriers and the floating button rivets that are less in number but in the sense of before they went with a whole bunch of buttons rather than when they went back to less buttons.... Early Yamaha EXUP rotors, stuff like that. 'Cause what I'm going for is the look of some early early floating rotors, like were used only experimentally and on high end factory race bikes back in the late '70s and early '80s. Basically, these here Honda CB/GL rotors, just with floating rivets instead of hard mount rivets.
Right now, the only thing I've found that looks good, AND fits properly, would be some well drilled stock rotors. For the rear wheel, I'm kind of open to a lot of ideas, but something came to me last night, was to use one of the slotted double-layer Gold-Wing GL1100 or maybe it's GL1200 ... the car type ones that are heavy as crap but work really well ... because I know they fit the CB750F comstar wheel so I would bet they'd fit this rear 1977 KZ750B (twin) aka KZ1000 etc, disc hub. THEN, I'd wanna drill the crap out of it, AND have it spun down to the smaller diameter. And just to go over the top, it would be so awesome to give it a wave outer shape too. Would that be about the most over-done rotor on the planet, or what? Ha ha. Maybe if it were ceramic as well....
I don't care so much about the finish on the final discs, just so long as they're not too deeply grooved and they still work okay. I was thinking, if I could up-grade to one of these aggressive pads that's supposed to wear out the discs really fast, then they will smooth out on their own. Or is that just me being cheap and talking out of my butt? Sometimes I wonder whether the minimum thickness of these old rotors has to be adhered to all that closely, given that the new ones are so much thinner.
Any which way, your service sounds like a great deal, so how much do you think it would cost to ship to and from Alberta Canada? Any other service I've seen out there charges twice as much as you're doing.
-S.
Post-Script: If you're able to do this thing with milling down the diameter, I'd love to talk more about it. I could send down one of these supersport rotors, or find a slotted or vented or whatever you call it gold-wing rotor, or maybe you know of one kicking around nearby? The diameter thing is much more important than the wave shape thing, as the wave rotor thing is pretty bogus isn't it? Ha ha. It's a bling thing, and I want the wave shape just to be funny and make it look "over the top". Ha ha. Not to cast aspersions about anybody else's tastes. Just sayin', if the thing could be milled down to the size of one of these modern rear rotors, that would be really cool. It doesn't NEED the whole bling thing or the fake copper paint with the faux verdigris finish on it! Ha ha.
That's a nice pair of single puck CB750F rotors right there. Or are they off a 'C? Nice anyway.
I have a pair for a GL1000 hub, I'm sticking them on my DOHC CB750F, and I started to drill them but bogged down on the project, sick of breaking cobalt bits. I mean, I was just using a hand drill ... so what an idiot, right? Anyway, I was doing a 4-3 pattern, 1/4" holes, calculated at dropping half of the surface area. Probably a bad idea, ha ha. But I'm looking at bigger calipers, so.... But yeah, what would you think of finishing them for me? I understand if you don't wanna take on something that's already screwed up!
I'd also understand if you felt that it's worth more to drill all of these extra holes!
AND got a KZ disc rear hub. '77 GL1000 up front, '77 KZ750b (twin) rear, and I'm putting nice fat rims on 'em, custom spokes etc, from Buchanan's. For tires I'm shooting for the 110/80zr18 and the 160/60zr18, maybe some funky retro lookin' metzelers. It's getting to look pretty damned expensive, so using the brakes and rotors I've already got, just for the interrim ... it makes good sense, maybe not "enonomically" but "fiscally".
But anyway, I'm looking at doing something different for the rear rotor. I was thinking it should be cut down in diameter to make a spacer that I could bolt up some type of smaller Gixxer or CBR or ZX four-bolt rotor. It will help with the wheel being dished for the chain-line plus CBX off-set sprocket I wanna use, so the right hand spokes are gonna be straight up and down I would bet. IF they can dish it that much, I mean. But yeah, if you could make that spacer for me, or if you could take one of these here CB750F rotors in the above picture, and cut it down to a smaller diameter and drill the crap out of it. It's got the same hole in the center, and one bolt hole lines up perfectly. I realize that the three extra bolt holes would un-balance it ever so slightly, but big deal right? Ha ha.
So yeah, I guess both of those requests relate to the one above about cutting a wave shape into a rotor, 'cause it's about changing the outer shape either way. Whadday say? It sounds like you're doing this just to help the rest of us out, from what I've seen of drilling my own stuff I would bet you're making about half minimum wage on this whole enterprise.... Do you have a bit of advise about what machinery would work best for this type of job?
Obviously, either the hand drill or the titanium and cobalt bits I used were a big mistake. And the use of a 1/8" pilot drill too, that seemed to save the tip of the big one, but only at the expense of breaking a bunch of little guys. I got through about a fifth of a rotor's worth of pilot holes, marking the pattern with a scribe/punch, and then I dropped the lot of it on the floor and went to the computer to look at more rotors. I honestly can't stand the look of the swapped out to modern rotors look, but I can envision this wheel with some kind of late eighties early nineties floating rotors with the more heavily built carriers and the floating button rivets that are less in number but in the sense of before they went with a whole bunch of buttons rather than when they went back to less buttons.... Early Yamaha EXUP rotors, stuff like that. 'Cause what I'm going for is the look of some early early floating rotors, like were used only experimentally and on high end factory race bikes back in the late '70s and early '80s. Basically, these here Honda CB/GL rotors, just with floating rivets instead of hard mount rivets.
Right now, the only thing I've found that looks good, AND fits properly, would be some well drilled stock rotors. For the rear wheel, I'm kind of open to a lot of ideas, but something came to me last night, was to use one of the slotted double-layer Gold-Wing GL1100 or maybe it's GL1200 ... the car type ones that are heavy as crap but work really well ... because I know they fit the CB750F comstar wheel so I would bet they'd fit this rear 1977 KZ750B (twin) aka KZ1000 etc, disc hub. THEN, I'd wanna drill the crap out of it, AND have it spun down to the smaller diameter. And just to go over the top, it would be so awesome to give it a wave outer shape too. Would that be about the most over-done rotor on the planet, or what? Ha ha. Maybe if it were ceramic as well....
I don't care so much about the finish on the final discs, just so long as they're not too deeply grooved and they still work okay. I was thinking, if I could up-grade to one of these aggressive pads that's supposed to wear out the discs really fast, then they will smooth out on their own. Or is that just me being cheap and talking out of my butt? Sometimes I wonder whether the minimum thickness of these old rotors has to be adhered to all that closely, given that the new ones are so much thinner.
Any which way, your service sounds like a great deal, so how much do you think it would cost to ship to and from Alberta Canada? Any other service I've seen out there charges twice as much as you're doing.
-S.
Post-Script: If you're able to do this thing with milling down the diameter, I'd love to talk more about it. I could send down one of these supersport rotors, or find a slotted or vented or whatever you call it gold-wing rotor, or maybe you know of one kicking around nearby? The diameter thing is much more important than the wave shape thing, as the wave rotor thing is pretty bogus isn't it? Ha ha. It's a bling thing, and I want the wave shape just to be funny and make it look "over the top". Ha ha. Not to cast aspersions about anybody else's tastes. Just sayin', if the thing could be milled down to the size of one of these modern rear rotors, that would be really cool. It doesn't NEED the whole bling thing or the fake copper paint with the faux verdigris finish on it! Ha ha.
