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So I have gone and added another disc up front on my cb750. When fitting all of this clearance and spacing were major issues just to get the units assembled. Calipers are all rebuilt and pads are new. Fluid has not flowed through this system yet. Rotor thickness is equal from side to side. The arms are parallel to the rotors.
My questions are: On the left (original side) side i have @ 1/16 clearance from rotor to pads and on the right side there is just enough clearance to roll the wheel.
1. Will this bind and jam the whole works when i bleed the system?
2. What is an acceptable min tolerance?
3. Should I let it wear in naturally or add some shim stock?
Unfortunately, neither one goes into great detail about priming the system. So I still have questions similar to yours. As well as others...
Did you use a stock wheel with longer bolts to add the extra disc? I am attempting to use a "d" style wheel, which I think came off a late 70's goldwing. It already has the dual disc and speedo set up on it. Just hoping that the gear ratio in this is the same as the stock speedo.
When you reversed the caliper for the other side, what did you do about that little fitting inside where the piping attaches? Noticed that you already had the bleeder valve in, so you must have removed it somehow... Any tips?
I referenced the annubis article greatly when doing the swap. I am using a stock rim and stock speedo drive unit. The bolts were @10mm longer i think, just get longer than necessary then trim as required. For the drive plate you have to modify one from a 550. You need to grind it round so that it fits inside the rotor. What should be left are the tabs which seat against the hub. There is almost zero tolerance here.
As for the calipers, i lucked out and got them from a guy on craigslist here locally. I ended up with a left and right by chance though i have read that you can swap the bleeder/feeder but i don't know how. They were seized and pretty crusty overall but they are good now. It might be easier to swap a complete front end but hey.... If you are using similar calipers there is a guy on ebay selling stainless pistons and rebuild kits of factory parts. No affiliation, just a top notch kit.
I have decided to bleed the system and let it bed in. If it binds I will add some shim stock between the caliper halves to get the clearance. Doesn't hurt to try and afterall disc brakes normally have a residual valve which maintains disc/pad contact.
Cool man. Keep me posted. I am just getting ready to pull the pistons out of my calipers.
On one of my other projects I actually refurbished a pitted caliper piston with JB weld. Almost 5 years and holding with no leaks, so I think its a pretty sound technique if you do it right. And much cheaper than the new ones I have seen for sale.
What did you decide to use for a master cylinder? I am currently shopping...
Jb weld is great stuff, have used it on a few occasions. As far as a master is concerned, i opted to keep it in the family and went with an 80's goldwing. Dual disc bikes with a not too modern looking master. 1200 and 1500 are good candidates.
Just sorted the lines... Bit of a pita. I have used goodridge in the past for other applications so i wanted to use them here. They have good universal options and i have seen others route the lines directly into the calipers sans banjos for a nice clean look. Apparently goodridge doesn't have these adapters so i opted for a couple of 90 deg banjos to get me going but i am on the lookout for a male to male 10mm 1.25 to An 3 brake line thread. I know they exist. If anyone lurking on this post has a link........
On a side note:
Tank welding is complete for new filler cap, and i should finish the bodywork this weekend. Almost time to spray.
You should have no problem what so ever. the pads are self centering and if there is a discerpancy one side may wera a tiny bit more than the other. I put 19,000 thousand on my springer that had the same questions and its still got pad left.
So the front end is now put together. I ended up spending some more time aligning the works and milled up some 7mm spacers out of 5/8 round stock. It works great because you can fine tune the clearances by filing the spacer.
For the brake lines i ended up using goodridge universal lines. The great thing here is that if you have two left calipers and can't that seating cup out, no problem as the 90 deg fitting seals against the caliper via crush washers.
After the teardown three years ago it's so close to being roadworthy.
The brace is Tarozzi, sourced from
http://www.fastfromthepast.com/servlet/the-Fork-Braces-cln-Honda/Categories
This link was useful too
http://pmiusa.net/FFTP/fork%20brace%20dimensions.pdf
The forks that came on my bike were incorrect for the year and the set i used were not correct either. The second link gives some useful dimensions to make sure you order the correct brace for your forks.
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