Easy way to check CL360 oil pressure?

[Oskimo]

So I was wondering if there was any way short of tearing open the engine to see that oil is getting to the top end of my cl360. I know oiling issues are common on these motors.

I've recently had my carbs worked on by PJ, and she fired right up and ran better than ever. I played with the idle screw settings and took her for a ride. Once the engined fully warmed up however, she lost power, spluttered out and died on me. I let her cool down and she started right up again and got me home. I was thinking it might be a lean condition at higher rpms (bike came with 100 secondary mains) causing it to overheat, but a buddy of mine suggested checking oil pressure. Now i'm concerned that if oiling is the real issue, i'm gonna blow up my motor trying to mess with the carbs.

Figured i'd start a thread as PJ is probably sick of me blowing up his inbox. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[trek97]

I played with the idle screw settings and took her for a ride. Once the engined fully warmed up however, she lost power, spluttered out and died on me. I let her cool down and she started right up again and got me home. I was thinking it might be a lean condition at higher rpms (bike came with 100 secondary mains) causing it to overheat,

pull the exhaust valve inspection covers off and fish a bent piece of wire or plastic zip-tie into the baths, to see you got oil in them.

100 main secondairies are too small for any pipe/filter combo.

Besides idle speed you need to dial in the A/F mix needles.

Do you have inline fuel filters installed? Ive tried them all. Paper, sintered brass, stainless steel screen k&ns, Mine wont run w any of them. Only the stock screens on tap. With any filters installed mine would run for a mile or two, run filters dry and die. Wait a couple minutes while the filters refill w fuel and she would go again.

 

[Oskimo]

Thanks Trek. A little reading and i came across that valve cover trick. It's definitely a most elegant and obvious solution. :

Fuel starving from the filters certainly makes sense. I do have some crappy plastic ones installed. I'll try some solid fuel lines and see if that does the trick.

As for the Jetting, I'm gonna see if the salvage guys in town have some 110's laying around. I was tempted to pick up a kit from Common Motor, but at $50 it seems kinda pricey. From what I hear, these bikes have a bit of mid end richness, so i think shimming the needle is generally not advised. Maybe i'm way off, and of course every bike is different.

For the record, I'm running UNI filters and Emgo shortys. Elevation is 465' above sea level.

 

[Sonreir]

I'm not sure what PJ does to the carbs, but on a stock setup you'd definitely want to go bigger on the secondary main. Buddy of mine ended up on 118 secondary on an otherwise stock motor after going to short exhaust and pods.

 

[trek97]

jets...
http://jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor_type/jets_keihin_99101-393_main_round_28-xxx.htm

 

[Oskimo]

Great link! Thanks.
I'm gonna order some 110s and 115s and see where that gets me.

I went for a ride and noticed a bit of a stumble off of idle. Twisting the throttle too quickly nearly killed the bike. Maybe a needle shim is in order after all?
I also noticed that my throttle cable was binding and revving the engine with handlebars turned, so I'm rerouting that now.

 

[crazypj]

Oil pressure is less than 20psi, you only need to check flow. If pump isn't working you'll know soon enough, it locks up
You should have 110 jets in carbs, I use them as a 'stock' starting size, check plugs
You right about shimming needles, it totally screws things up.
With e10 fuel everywhere, bigger jetting is almost always needed compared to 4~5 yrs ago when I last did dyno tests
Exhaust length and diameter is also more critical without stock airbox (but everyone with a 360 already knows that ;D )
Trek is still carrying out tests but as he's using non e10 fuel his results won't directly translate 'for the masses' (myself included)