engine cover gaskets

jbeebe

Been Around the Block
I removed my engine covers for paint today and the gaskets are still on the engine side for the most part but a few pieces a couple inches long are still on the covers here and there that ripped (maybe in 2 spots on each cover).

do you think this will create a leak? I really would like to avoid waiting for new gaskets to come in off the ebays and scraping the old ones off.

Or maybe just a little black rtv along the edges of the rips so it makes it whole again when bolted up?

thanks guys.
 
I'll be blunt.
Don't be a fuckin' idiot. Your gaskets are broken. Replace them!

I often re-use gaskets when they come apart intact, much for the same reason you want to avoid getting new gaskets, for convenience. Having to order gaskets for a vintage bike and wait for them to come in is annoying. Gaskets can be expensive, too.

When I install new gaskets, I use a little silicon on the cover side of the gasket, and Teflon paste on the other side. That way, the next time it comes apart, the gasket comes off intact with the cover, and can be reused. On an old bike, it is foolish to try and reuse the original gaskets. They are old and brittle with no resilience left in them. Usually, the first thing I do when I get an old bike, is I buy a complete gasket set. That way, I have any gasket that I may need.
 
AlphaDogChoppers said:
I'll be blunt.
Don't be a fuckin' idiot.

But it's so easy for me!!!

haha yea i get inpatient, i'll order them today. but man, that's 45 bucks i didn't want to spend on gaskets.
 
ADC is completely correct. You need a new gasket.
If it is small enough, one option is to get a sheet of gasket paper at an outo parts store and trace the old one VERY carefully.

Not ideal, but it can work.

On a related note, an old racers trick used to be high temp silicone gaskets (aircraft use them) on covers that had to come off a lot, like valve covers on DOHC motors to adjust clearances.

Anybody know of anyone still making silicone gaskets for bikes? I ride my Z1 daily and the seeping valve cover bugs me...
 
jbeebe said:
that's 45 bucks i didn't want to spend on gaskets.

I feel ya on that. You can get a complete gasket set from Vesruh for around $65 for most bikes. It's a good value. OEM gaskets can cost as much as $30 each!
 
Bozz said:
If it is small enough, one option is to get a sheet of gasket paper at an auto parts store and trace the old one VERY carefully.

I've made many a gasket that way, clutch covers, tappet covers, alt covers. For 5 - 7 bucks you can buy the sheet and save a crap ton of money. Heck the last gasket set I bought they all had to be trimmed down anyway, alternator cover had +1/8" hanging out all around as did the clutch cover.
 
You can make them for about $5~$10.00 if you cut them yourself.
1/32"dark grey gasket material is pretty cheap BUT it is time consuming an can be frustrating if you cut in the wrong place or it moves while cutting
You will need a scalpel and/or selection of craft knives
Unless your doing bikes where gaskets are not available, it's easier and quicker to just buy them
 
I use Threebond on all my engine cases. Seals up well, even under heat and pressure. Seals and O-rings are a must, but I prefer my gaskets in the liquid variety.
 
Sonreir said:
I use Threebond on all my engine cases. Seals up well, even under heat and pressure. Seals and O-rings are a must, but I prefer my gaskets in the liquid variety.

You just need to keep in mind thsat sometimes the gaskets add clearance that goes away if you use the liquid or RTV only.
Since you have a CJ360, the point cover, if you are still using points, will short the points out if there isn't a gasket, or if you don't modify the points. That's not a serious issue, but in general, gaskets are often accounted for in dimensions, and changing them can affect clearances.

I have used RTV in the past, but when you open an engine, and find little bits of it everywhere, I have the feeling it wasn't a good idea.

Just a heads up on gaskets. I hate seeing someone reading about not using gaskets and assemble a head without a head gasket because they thought RTV would be good enough.
 
mydlyfkryzis said:
You just need to keep in mind thsat sometimes the gaskets add clearance that goes away if you use the liquid or RTV only.
Since you have a CJ360, the point cover, if you are still using points, will short the points out if there isn't a gasket, or if you don't modify the points. That's not a serious issue, but in general, gaskets are often accounted for in dimensions, and changing them can affect clearances.

I have used RTV in the past, but when you open an engine, and find little bits of it everywhere, I have the feeling it wasn't a good idea.

Just a heads up on gaskets. I hate seeing someone reading about not using gaskets and assemble a head without a head gasket because they thought RTV would be good enough.

Never use rtv silicone on a motorcycle/small engine as stated above.
Small oil passages will clog easily.
+1 on three bond if you only have one or two gaskets to replace.
I've used it on gaskets also,both sides of a cam cover gasket,now the tach drive seal is leaking :mad:
 
I also should of added, if there was no gasket (machined metal to metal, like upper/lower crank case) you should not add a gasket either. The cam box on the CB350/360 has no gasket. If you add one the clearance for the cam journals would be too much also.

three bond seals metal to metal surfaces.
 
I use wheel bearing grease on paper gaskets, as on a clutch cover. Makes it easy to remove, and hasn't leaked yet!
 
The only time I tried that (against my better judgement) the oil pissed out without engine ever being run (clutch cover, XS650)
I left it for 2 weeks while on vacation.
Luckily, bike was on side stand so I didn't loose everything
Since then, either 'dry' or 3Bond
 
Make your own, items required:

Gasket material

Gasket%20material.jpg


Sharp blade

l1.jpg


Scissors

41701161.jpg


Hole punchers

vinyl-hole-puncher.jpg
 
Worst cb650 ever said:
I use wheel bearing grease on paper gaskets, as on a clutch cover. Makes it easy to remove, and hasn't leaked yet!

AS do I, works great. MIGHT seep out the excess grease for a few rides but other than that makes them stupid easy to get back off.

Old gun shells make good hole punches too.
 
Yea, the gasket paper I use to make my gaskets is the kind that works by the oil swelling it to make a seal, so using grease just pre swells them. Also, who said "that's not an oil leak, that's sweat from all that horsepower" ? ;D
 
Worst cb650 ever said:
... Also, who said "that's not an oil leak, that's sweat from all that horsepower" ? ;D
Some with an English Bike no doubt...
 
Probably a Triumph, I've had plenty of Royal Enfield's and BSA's that didn't leak ;D
 
crazypj said:
Probably a Triumph, I've had plenty of Royal Enfield's and BSA's that didn't leak ;D

I just overhauled a '66 Triumph TR4 engine - the rear main seal is a bunch of grooves in two aluminum collars that fit over a bunch of grooves in the end of the crank. It's not so much a seal as it is a baffle to keep most of the oil in the motor. "Most" being the key word here. Nothing like oil leaking from a freshly rebuilt motor and that being "normal." ::)
 
Back
Top Bottom