Engine died while riding

[Bama704]

so what are the results of running 12 volts directly to the coil . . also have you cleaned the points and made sure there is continuty between the contacts when they are closed . . are there 12 volts to one side of the points when they are open or both sides whenb they are closed . . did you test the condensers to make sure they were good?to

I have not had a chance to get out to di any of those tests yet. Will have time on Sunday to work on it and will let yall know.

 

[jryftc]

Points and condenser are cheap to replace and are a maintainence item anyway. He already orfered them, it was a great move on his part. Excellent advice to continue searching for a cause.

that's a great solution if you like spending money for fun. listen to barnett468's advice and trouble shoot them before you go and shell out money for things that may not even need to be replaced. it doesn't even seem like theres been a correct diagnosis done to see if that's even necessary. it would be like having a leaking carb gasket and going ahead and rebuilding your carbs because its good matainence...if it calls for it replace it, but make sure you at least have suspicion it may be that before you start ripping your bike apart and spending unnecessary money.

 

[DohcBikes]

He already ordered them. Nothing wrong with replacing old points. SSShhh, don't tell anybody, but I've replaced points JUST because I wanted to....seriously though keep it on the DL so the points police don't find me. Glad to see you're so passionate about how he spends his money.

 

[jryftc]

hahaha it just doesn't make any sense, but whatever floats your boat.

 

[teazer]

In this case, it's not a bad idea. Condensors do break down over time and they are inexpensive. Personally I would have thrown them out and fitted a DYNA S but that's even more $. It would eliminate some issues, but they may not be what your problem is.

Your first problem appears to be that the battery was discharging as you rode, and that may be from a charging system problem or might be a short. The exposed wire and cracked new coil suggest a short caused the wiring to overheat. Check the wiring from the coils to the points. It is not uncommon for wiring to chafe against the motor or frame until it wears through the insulation and shorts out.

Barnett was trying to explain above that you could connect the battery straight to the coil +ve side and see if you have a spark. That would eliminate (for testing) the switches. In your case that was a bit of a problem, but sounds like it's the wiring from coils to points that needs to be examined next.

 

[Sonreir]

Now this is only coming from years old memory but I believe the brown wire on a kawi usually supplies voltage to the run switch, then out to the coils via the red/white wire. A short to ground in this circuit would certainly affect the ignition. You are already on the right track.

Something hard rubbed through that insulation, obviously metal. A short on this wire would likely kill the bike immediately. This wire supplies all the voltage for the coils, so repair it correctly.

The old kz's have ALWAYS had an issue with voltage drop at the coils. Often a battery that shows 12.8 or better only shows a bit above 10 volts at the coils. Lookup 'Wired George' mod to get improved voltage at the coils safely with the use of a common relay, after it is running again of course.

Brown wire provides power to a lot of circuits in a Kawi. Brake, turn signals, horn, and coils get power directly or indirectly. Coils are fed from the yellow/red wire after the kill switch.

Definitely looks like a short. Make sure to check your main fuse, too. Most short circuits will blow one.

 

[Bama704]

Am still waiting for the points and condensor to arrive from Z1enterprises, I called them today and there is no set delivery date. :-\
Thank you so far to all the helpful comments. I went today and made sure my points were set correctly, which they were, set at .35 (my spec is .3-.4) I also static timed them per the fsm. Turned the power on, bike to RUN and hit the starter. No spark from points on left side (1&4), spark on right side (2&3).

Brown wire provides power to a lot of circuits in a Kawi. Brake, turn signals, horn, and coils get power directly or indirectly. Coils are fed from the yellow/red wire after the kill switch.

Definitely looks like a short. Make sure to check your main fuse, too. Most short circuits will blow one.

Sonier, I checked main fuse which is OK, and I have power from yellow/red wire...12.4V

The exposed wire and cracked new coil suggest a short caused the wiring to overheat. Check the wiring from the coils to the points. It is not uncommon for wiring to chafe against the motor or frame until it wears through the insulation and shorts out.

Teazer, wires from coil to points were OK as far as I could tell.

 

[Bama704]

No spark from points on left side (1&4), spark on right side (2&3).

This still did not get me a spark at the coil for 2 or 3. I think I need to go back through the wires from the points to coils one or two more times just to be sure.

Should I place one probe of multimeter on wire leading to the points (green or black depending on which side), and place the positive probe on the positive lead to the coil? Or would I place it on the corresponding green or black lead at the coil

 

[barnett468]

The wire from the points goes to the negative side of the coil . . check it for continuity . . even if it has continuity, it may still not have good contact.

Switch the positive wire from the good coil over to the bad coil and check the dead cylinder for spark . .