epoxy rattle paint

malloy

Been Around the Block
so I'm getting ready to paint my frame that I just sand blasted. I've been hearing about this rattle epoxy paint. is this stuff durable, better than the duplicolor engine enamel?. I got a bare steel frame. will this stuff go right on. sorry for all the questions, but i want a paint that won't flake off in a month. also if I do clear, what is the clear of choice.
 
i havent used it YET, but i have a couple cans for my project. from what i have read it dries very hard and shiney so you shouldnt need any clear which should make the process more simple. it is designed to go straight on bare metal so no need for primer either. ive seen some fork sliders sprayed with it 2yrs. later and it still looks great!
 
Also check out a Eastwood product called "Chassis Black". Although a frame paint I've used it on my side stand and center stand with success. It's looks good and is very durable. If I wasn't gonna powdercoat, I'd go with this.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
 
terry is this the stuff your talking about ?

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=14348&itemType=PRODUCT

20.00 a can.. damn.... i wonder how this compares to the other epoxy paint.
 
Epoxy is REALLY hard compared to Duplicolor Engine Enamel. I painted my frame using duplicolor because they had the color I wanted, but the paint is really soft and it chips and scratches easily. If you go this route, you may want to have a 2-part clear over it, which I plan to do soon.

If you want to use the epoxy, look for Rustoleum appliance epoxy at your local hardware store.
 
i picked up 4 cans of the silver epoxy paint from lowes for a grand total of 19.00 :).. i'm going to have my bodyshop over at the dealership apply a good clear to everything when it is done
 
Yep, that's the stuff, hard as hell!! But if you 're at the dealer and the body shop guys are willing to work with you, why go rattlecan??? surely they have the crap that will do the job better than any rattlecan! Take advantage of their skill and knowledge, for god's sake man, this is BENZ shit. Let those guys rock on, what a resource you have, use it!!!!!

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
 
well, the bodyshop manager is kinda being a tough guy. id rather steer clear of the shop and do my own thing. I have some perks like my own lift/work area, parts washer, I was able to sandblast all my parts, and I have a ton of tools. for some reason I wanna see how far I can take the "cheap" approach. I think with good prep, and a solid game plan, this bike will turn out good. this is not my first rodeo. ;) if the paint turns out like shit, I will had them guys over at the bodyshop do side work for me, but right now this project is all me :)
 
well I think I spoke to too, I just sprayed the top triple and it came out like hell. I went with the silver and there is no shine, the paint is very textured. (looks like silver sandpaper) I don't know what happened. I washer the part with soap and water after sand blasting, then cleaned with rubbing alchol. I going to return the other 3 cans and go for the gloss black
 
a good paint job is all in the prep....

blast
solvent clean (don't use water on virgin metal)
prime
sand if necessary
topcoat (more is not better, try to keep it thin)

optional:
sand the topcoat imperfections
blow in a bit of paint in the sanded areas if you broke the topcoat
sand the general area to help with the blend
polish back the shine.

this will help if you are working with solid colors. Metallic's, mica's and all the other fancy paints are much more difficult to work with as they are not easy to repair and will likely require you to repaint the piece.

spray bomb tip - get a pot of HOT water and let your cans warm up before you spray. Try to spray on a cool rainy day. Cool gives the paint a few more minutes to flow and the rain keeps the dust down.

happy shooting!
 
malloy said:
well I think I spoke to too, I just sprayed the top triple and it came out like hell. I went with the silver and there is no shine, the paint is very textured. (looks like silver sandpaper) I don't know what happened. I washer the part with soap and water after sand blasting, then cleaned with rubbing alchol. I going to return the other 3 cans and go for the gloss black

That silver appliance epoxy is different from any other rattle can paint I've ever used. I got the same results as you the couple times I used it. I found that after the first several sprays from a new can it settles down and goes on without "texturing". Unfortunately you have to waste a little paint to get there. Also, shake the can ALOT before use and constantly during use and warm it up in a bucket of hot water like Krixxer says.

The color is really nice, so don't give up on it yet.

Good Luck, CC
 
just an update, I was never able to get the silver to work corrrectly. I returned the silver and got the gloss black. the gloss black came out much better. how long after can I wet sand the part to get some surface imperections out. also can you lay clear on top of this stuff
 
You'll want to wait atleast 7 days. It takes a while to cure. Pain in the ass to wait but worth it.
 
rextec said:
i havent used it YET, but i have a couple cans for my project. from what i have read it dries very hard and shiney so you shouldnt need any clear which should make the process more simple. [size=10pt][size=10pt][size=10pt][size=10pt]it is designed to go straight on bare metal so no need for primer either[/size][/size][/size][/size]. ive seen some fork sliders sprayed with it 2yrs. later and it still looks great!

it says it right on the can. ;)
 
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