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The Patient: 1972 Honda CL350... stock everything ... no modifications
The symptoms: -starts easily cold. Will not start with choke engaged.
-didnt idle well from time of purchase. Idles slows then dies
- first time I started it... old dude in garage said it was running rich.
- after about 3 fifty mile rides, bike was running very rough
- pulled plugs after last ride.... black and sooty.
Medical History: - pulled old plugs... replaced with new ones.
- pulled dirty air filters... installed brand new OEM filters.
- attempted to resuscitation with new plugs and filters.... will not idle
without holding throttle slightly open.
- holding throttle at 2000 rpm sounds slightly uneven... just
barely.
Diagnosis: ??????
Treatment options: ??????
I thought about trying to set the timing... but it seems pointless if the bike won't idle.
Hep me!
PS: bought a can of Seafoam today. Unsure if I should use it or not.
Could be just as simple as the idle is set too low. What rpm will it idle at? Start a little high and work it down from there.
And it starts easily when cold only with no choke? Check to see what size pilot jets you have. Somebody may have put larger ones in, or your air/fuel mixture screws are set too rich. I don't know if it's part of the problem, but I've heard 350 carbs a finicky to float height - so make sure that is spot on as well.
Oh, and forget about the Seafoam. Its more of a maintenance than a fix.
Make sure the carbs are clean, check the jet numbers while you are in there, adjust the points, timing, valves, charge the battery, etc. All of the "periodic maintenance" in the service manual that deals with the motor and carbs.
I wanna say dirty carbs that are probably out of sync. Possible air leak on the intake boots? spray some carb cleaner around the boots and see if it revs up, I cant see why it would be running rich if everything is stock. But search online for what color your plugs should look after a hard ride to help diagnose some issues. You can usualy tell if its rich by the smell of the exhaust too though. I say clean carbs up real good, check for boot leaks then sync them. If your still having issues do the timing. Cleaning and syncing are free if you have the right tools so even if its not the issue it wont hurt.
I guess I will mess with the mixture screws next. I did turn up the idle screws and it helped when the bike was still running ok...but it isn't helping anymore.
If the mixture screws don't solve it. I will take apart the carbs and get a rebuild kit.
If it was an air leak at the boots... wouldn't it be running lean?
I've never had the pleasure to sync 350 carbs, but it should be similar to most CV equipped twins. Check the manual about the timing marks - they are on the stator.
yeah man left stator cover off you set the points to open at "LF" you will see it on the magneto <img src="http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/703/itm110624938079.jpg" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us"/>
By <a target="_new" href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/axeugene27">axeugene27</a> at 2012-06-18
I have a manual. I know that the adjustment must be done when the engine is on the compression stroke.
So TDC is determined by rotating the generator counter-clockwise to the markings on the rotation where it "feels like" it wants to move past the mark? I just want to make
sure I understand correctly. I watched the youtube videos and the dude said "I just know by feel when it is TDC" (.. ya thanks buddy... very informative)
If I can get a confirmation on the TDC thing... I will check the valves and timing tomorrow after work.
Also I heard that when you remove the cover on the generator, oil will leak out. Is this true? I just want to be prepared with a pan or something.
dude tdc is correlates to the markings on the stator . You set the timing at LF what else do you need to know. You do have to determine compression stroke but that is pretty easy to feel as you turn the stator bolt not to mention just look at the points they should be open close to LF on the compression stroke. Just give it a shot you really can't mess it up.
It just sounds like your carbs are way out of adjustment. Turn the mixture screws all the way in then turn them both out about 1 1/2 turns. Adjust your throttle cable so both butterflys open at the exact same time and then adjust your stop screw on the butterflys so they are equal in the idle position. Then recheck and make sure they open at the exact same time. if you find the bike is fouling in town turn your idle screws in at 1/8 turn incriments.
Make sure you check your valve clearances and ignition timing before you start ripping into your carbs. If it's either of those you will be pulling your hair out trying to get the carbs right.
Make sure you check your valve clearances and ignition timing before you start ripping into your carbs. If it's either of those you will be pulling your hair out trying to get the carbs right.
That's what I will check first. I got the proper MotionPro valve tappet feeler gauges in the mail.
Just so I am clear... there are 4 tappet covers to remove?
It looks like I might have to disconnect the carb or fuel petcock to get at one of them.
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