Finishing tank paint

tacks

Active Member
Hi all, finally got my first bike (CL350k3) running and have a few small things I have to do to get her road ready, but since I live in Michigan, looks like that's not happening before winter. My question is this: I spilled gas on my tank (rattle can job w 6 layers of clear coat) and the clear started to run. I plan on hitting it with light sanding then Spraymax 2K for fuel resistance, but do I need to start all over or will the Spray max adhere to the sanded rattle can clear coat? I don't want to waste a $20 clear coat if I can avoid it. Thanks in advance!
 
Really depends on the brands and their compatibility, I have had great luck and sometimes not so great, time between one to the next has a lot to do with things too - especially when it's a time frame of less than a couple weeks - if you have both around, I'd try a test piece on some scrap metal before putting a paint job at further risk, or at very least, a small area the is not too conspicuous - like the bottom flat of the tank or something.

I swear the last year or so, Duplicolor has put something into thier clear that makes it attack other brands of paint!

Good luck - keep us posted
 
I don't know what Spray Max is, but generally, nothing out of a spray can is going to hold up to fuel. If it is not 2 part mixed primer/paint/clear it's durability and adhesion will be be no where as good as something mixed and shot from a gun.
 
High On Octane said:
I don't know what Spray Max is, but generally, nothing out of a spray can is going to hold up to fuel. If it is not 2 part mixed primer/paint/clear it's durability and adhesion will be be no where as good as something mixed and shot from a gun.

It's a 2k clear in a rattle can. Push the button to release the activator and go to town. It's really great, and sprays amazingly well.
 
Tacks, I would recommend the testing too.
Just be aware that once you crack the activator you have only a few hours to spray before the spray max is a paper weight.
 
I've sprayed SprayMax over Duplicolor with awesome results. SprayMax is a 2K that holds up fine to fuel, I highly recommend it.
 
Rule #1:

The only good thing about rattle can paint, is that it's easy to remove.

So strip it all down, and use REAL primer, and REAL paint please.
 
SASO Racing said:
Rule #1:

The only good thing about rattle can paint, is that it's easy to remove.

So strip it all down, and use REAL primer, and REAL paint please.

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=10993.0
 
Use what you can afford. I use spraymax because I don't have a full on spray setup. And the duplicolor/spraymax will do better than a shitty gun. Like the others have stated. The spraymax works really well with proper prep and application.
 
Typically a cheap thing to do. Take it to a body shop, when they paint a car door, or whatever they are repairing that day, have them hit your tank with clear while they are doing whatever part they are doing.
 
I've seen decent results with pasti dip, don't know about the durability with fuel but it's pretty solid stuff.
 
warpt_99 said:
I've seen decent results with pasti dip, don't know about the durability with fuel but it's pretty solid stuff.

I use them on rims and holds up well. With fuel id imagine it peeling off the instant it touches
 
Tifun said:
Use what you can afford. I use spraymax because I don't have a full on spray setup. And the duplicolor/spraymax will do better than a shitty gun. Like the others have stated. The spraymax works really well with proper prep and application.

I highly disagree with that statement. You can lay down a better paint job with a HF paint gun and generic base coat than one could lay out with rattle can. You will NEVER get good depth and coverage with a rattle can compared to even the cheapest paint guns.
 
High On Octane said:
I highly disagree with that statement. You can lay down a better paint job with a HF paint gun and generic base coat than one could lay out with rattle can. You will NEVER get good depth and coverage with a rattle can compared to even the cheapest paint guns.

Disagree or not I stand by my statement with experience. Depth and coverage has never been an issue on the small scale like tanks and fenders if using the right cans. A car door. Sure. The Shitty guns will more than likely leave all sorts of peel and create a lot more work. Most all of my rattle can jobs come out smooth needing minimal work to bring out the luster. I can't say the same using a shitty gun. A mediocre gun sure. But you still need a decent compressor, driers, good regulators, air line, fittings, cups, thinner, paint, etc. this list keeps going and so does the price. I'm not saying can is the best but for budget minded you can't go wrong. If the op had the means then this topic would never have been posted.


Keith
 
Back
Top Bottom