First full project somewhere between a Brat and Cafe

ceregy

I DID IT MY WAY
Hello everyone. I've followed multiple builds on here for years now. My project has hit one of the "oh my hell am i ever gonna finish this shit." points so I decided it was time to post for motivation. The bike is a 1974 cb360 I bought back in high school. I put new tires on it, cleaned the carbs, new points, timing all the basics. A few months later the exhaust stud on my head snapped. Upon taking the heads off I decided what the hell lets redo the whole bike, lose these flipped bars and make something awesome. I'm a college student so doing the full project I want has been slow with no budget, slowly but surely thought we will get there.
 

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welcome to dtt. looks like you got a nice, clean machine to work with.
I have a cb360, and its somewhere twixed a cafe, brat and a WTF IS THAT THING? Its not clean. ::)

because you are a student and have "no budget" make sure to keep the stock air filters, boxes and the stock mufflers. You can mess w changing those later.

Heres a build that may be up your alley. Bromz lives about 10 minutes from me. He built his CJ360 on a budget. Got a pair of ebay clipons, went through the engine. Painted it and a new seat cover. Turned out to be a real nice looking, good running machine, and didnt spend too much.
 
great looking bike you are starting with!

listen to trek on keeping those couple of stock items. take your time and do not rush anything
will be checking back on this one as I am also on my first build..love seeing what other first timers are doing!

shaggy
 
Ha looks similar to my workspace before the garage. Old desk, lone stand, and no space. In college myself and I can understand budget but like said above, don't rush anything. You'll learn a lot and even more if you try to rush through. And I wouldn't say that's necessarily a good thing haha.
 
cleaning the lower cases I am looking for any tips regarding chemicals to help break down the gunk. Using some spray engine degreaser from harbor freight and it is slow work. Want to get it all gone so i can soda blast and paint. Will have to send it to the local machine shop for hone and to get some snapped bolts and the snapped exhaust studs out from my noob mistakes.
 
Plan on replacing the springs but do the plates need to be replaced as well? Also the rust on these tabs is a little concerning. Cylinders went in for hone today. Will be putting it all back together next week once gaskets get here. Fingers crossed everything goes well. First time rebuilding a motorcycle engine. I gotta burn those pants for the humiliation they caused.
 

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You can get Heavy duty springs at Bore-tech.com & pretty inexpensive (worth every penny). Listed as cb350 springs but a perfect fit for 360. Also, you can just freshen up clutch "plates" w 400 grit paper. New clutch "disks" are a great idea. I got heavy duty disks from parts unlimited. Soak disks in the oil you plan to use for 24 hours before install.

BTW I think The clutch springs are the only part interchangeable twixed 350 and 360.

http://bore-tech.com/product/350-clutch-springs-cs-4
 
ceregy said:
Plan on replacing the springs but do the plates need to be replaced as well? Also the rust on these tabs is a little concerning. Cylinders went in for hone today. Will be putting it all back together next week once gaskets get here. Fingers crossed everything goes well. First time rebuilding a motorcycle engine. I gotta burn those pants for the humiliation they caused.

and that is not rust the friction plates are aluminum the color you see is simply the bonding agent(glue) that is used in the process
the friction may be fine to continue to use the manual describes checking them i believe
 
ceregy said:
Plan on replacing the springs but do the plates need to be replaced as well? Also the rust on these tabs is a little concerning. Cylinders went in for hone today. Will be putting it all back together next week once gaskets get here. Fingers crossed everything goes well. First time rebuilding a motorcycle engine. I gotta burn those pants for the humiliation they caused.

You might ought to burn the pink shoes too. Lol anyhow great looking bike. Get it running again and put some decent bars on there and ride it. You don't have to do a full on rebuild of the bike, just get it going and enjoy it.
 
Dont lets these dorks tease ya. I dont give a rats ass what you wanna wear.

Clutch limits and such from official honda 360 manual, pg 112. Last number is the service limit.

Also, you may not know what kind of oil they been impregnated w these past years. In most cases its probably safe to Assume the previous owner used what ever walmart had on sale that week.

And I agree, you dont need to rebuild the whole dang bike. But as long as you got it apart...so on and so forth. When I replaced mine. I found it had been slipping steady by like 500rpm at 60mph the whole time and I had no idea, until I had replaced them.

Dont fix it if it aint broke, but, preventative maintenance can save alot of headaches later.

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Engine parts are finished. Cylinder hone, valve job, gasket surfaces. All that fun stuff. Now before I paint and reassemble I need to find piston rings. Still within stock clearance. Just wondering what the best bang for my buck route.
 

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I got these rings. 2 0r 3 seasons and they have been fine...so far.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB360-CL360-CJ360-New-STD-Piston-Rings-x-2-Sets-1974-1975-1976-1977-/381168811491?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACB360&hash=item58bf6e7de3&vxp=mtr

They did measure just very slightly thinner than the stock ones I pulled out.

AND That will eat at me, until I open her up and install NOS Genuine Honda rings. :mad:
 
NEVER mind i see now it is a 360 :-[

before you final assemble the motor assemble the cam in the rocker box,with dry gaskets and the 2 end bush blocks check camshaft endplay
also if you had valve seats cut it is a good idea to put the rockerbox on the head on the bench and check one side then the other to see if you still have valve lash clearance in the correct range as per FSM
 
trek97 said:
I got these rings. 2 0r 3 seasons and they have been fine...so far.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB360-CL360-CJ360-New-STD-Piston-Rings-x-2-Sets-1974-1975-1976-1977-/381168811491?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACB360&hash=item58bf6e7de3&vxp=mtr

They did measure just very slightly thinner than the stock ones I pulled out.

AND That will eat at me, until I open her up and install NOS Genuine Honda rings. :mad:
how much thinner ?
 
xb33bsa said:
NEVER mind i see now it is a 360 :-[

before you final assemble the motor assemble the cam in the rocker box,with dry gaskets and the 2 end bush blocks check camshaft endplay
also if you had valve seats cut it is a good idea to put the rockerbox on the head on the bench and check one side then the other to see if you still have valve lash clearance in the correct range as per FSM

+1 it only takes a second to measure cam end play. install the shim you got. and fit a couple feelers in the gap to compare w manual limits. if its not, I believe new shims are still available at your local Honda shop.

Heres what I did.
 
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