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K, so what might be the cause of a clutch which engages and disengages with little or no friction zone. On all the other bikes I've got, there's a nice discernible friction zone, but on this honda cl350, the clutch just dumps when you get to the breaking point. I do have the ball bearing installed. When she was disassembled, the plates were assembled as per the manual. I thought I'd get some insight before i crack the cover and measure the clutch springs and disks
The clutch plates can cut grooves into the basket tangs over time - this will make the plates stay in one position as opposed to moving in and out smoothly (happens a LOT on dirt bikes).
If / when you take the basket out check for this - the fix is to simply file them back down flat.
They are old plates. Some of the plates are numbered 3, and some 4. I also noticed that each side of the friction plate has a different pattern. Would the orientation of the pattern affect the engagement?
The plates and spring are to spec as well.
Also, why does the clymer manual state there being 6 clutch plates, and 7 friction disks? Ive got an extra of each and it.
I'll be the first to say that mine look like utter crud. I could be wrong, but I'd say a new set of friction disks is in order.
They look like they have got a 'bit warm' at some time but I would still use them.
Could be Barnett plates, they are really 'grabby' particularly the older materials (originally designed for drag racing, all or nothing, sucked on the street)
What oil were you using with them? (JASO MA spec?)
If you fit new plates, don't forget to soak them in the oil your going to use, 24hrs is good
Well the new clutch friction disks worked wonders, not only on the clutch issue, but solving my horribly gritty shifting issue. I had to mash the shifter to engage each gear and sometimes that wouldn't even do the trick. I was blown away when I went to shift and the thing glided through gears like a champ!!! I'm still not quite sure how the two relate to each other, but the gears, and shifter forks looked spick and span when the cases were cracked last year. Tops to ya guys. Cheers
Final update; Decided that I wanted to ditch the aftermarket "motion-pro" clutch cable because I had some concerns, so I picked up a cheap(10$) original Honda cable, and that sealed the deal!!! I looked into motion-pro reviews and found(as i did) that the cable doesn't seat correctly into the clutch cover, and that it is farrrrr too long of a cable over stock. I received the original one in the mail today and greased her up, and was utterly stoked on the results. Great clutch release/engagement. Now, if only I'd stop finding new oil leaks every time I start her up!!!
Good to see you got everything solved with some new and inexpensive pieces!
Something as simple as worn friction surfaces and a poor cable are the difference between a bike that you enjoy tking out every day to one that you take out for a quick blast once a week, just to tell yourself you still actually ride it...
I honestly would bet that the (newer) motion pro cable was a major culprit. Total piss poor quality. Never again. Gonna change out the front brake cable (MP as well) back to the original and see if that wont solve my front brake issues. And this bike has been the devils daughter. Nothing but issue after issue. Hell of a learning experience. Wouldn't have traded it for another though (that's a lie ;D)
TheJester said:
Good to see you got everything solved with some new and inexpensive pieces!
Something as simple as worn friction surfaces and a poor cable are the difference between a bike that you enjoy tking out every day to one that you take out for a quick blast once a week, just to tell yourself you still actually ride it...
You mention poor cables from Motion Pro, Im second guessing a set I got for the CB360 now. The inners wernt quite the right length. I know what Ill be seeing Mr. Honda for next, along with the rest of the list in the spring.
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