Ya i keep telling sean that as well... we did not know it was possible either, took some work and temp regulation but we got it to work. god man i can not even tell you how bad it smelled... for real, we have the whole shop opened up just to try and get the stink out, it even over powdered the chemical tank smell and that is hard to do... let me see what sean says about us sticking another skull in the oven and i will get back to you on that one, maybe one more skull job for you as a wedding gift, ill see if i can get him to be cool with it. he was puking from the smell
FZR600 fighter
- Thread starter JRK5892
- Start date
tWistedWheelz
BUILT NOT BOUGHT!
JRK5892 said:
??? ? ??? What is that? Brakes? I thought you had those!
speed bleeder man, makes bleeding them a snap! i got a pump style bleeder and these suckers are 1000000% easier than that, just 1/4 turn, tube so the brake fluid does not get on everything and pump and fill... takes about 15 min to do the entire bike from 0 fluid to full and stiff! well worth it. 3 of them ran me about 26 bucks. i got them on all the bikes (except for the cafe)
http://www.speedbleeder.com/
http://www.speedbleeder.com/
tWistedWheelz
BUILT NOT BOUGHT!
nice, thanks! I have only done this manually by adding to the caliper, then filling the line, then the reseviour! Makes a fucking huge mess, clean up is a bitch, and you waste a ton of fluid! I will be getting some of these!
Here's a write-up I did a while ago for another forum - thought you guys might find it useful 
This method works on the principle that air bubbles rise in a fluid – so you are working with gravity (rather than against it) to eject any air through the reservoir. The bleed nipple on the caliper is usually the lowest entry point in the brake line system, so this is the point where the fluid is introduced.
1. Go to the local chemist and buy a 20cc syringe. Tell them it’s not for drugs. These are about $1-2 each (the syringes, not the drugs).
2. Get yourself some clear hose – the same stuff you probably have used for normal brake bleeding duties. Cut a piece that’s about 10-15cm long and push this on the end of the syringe. Now you are ready.
3. Open the reservoir cap and suck out the old fluid (if any) with the syringe and tube. Discard this fluid.
4. Place a suitable ring spanner on the caliper bleed nipple (normally 10mm). Make sure it has enough "swing" room to open and close the nipple (about one third of a turn).
5. Fill the syringe about 3 quarters full with fresh fluid (straight from a new bottle). then hold the syringe upright and draw some air into it, clearing the tube of fluid.
6. Push the tube over the bleed nipple. Facing the syringe down, open the nipple slightly and draw a SMALL amount of fluid out of the caliper with the syringe. This will fill the tube with fluid and allow any air to rise to the top of the syringe. Don’t draw too much or you will suck air into the master cylinder.
7. With the caliper nipple still open, push the fresh fluid from the syringe into the caliper. Be careful not to push any of the air from the syringe back into the caliper. When this is done, close the nipple and remove the tube (a good tip here is to close the nipple and draw the syringe – creating a suction effect in the tube over the nipple. Remove the hose and any remaining fluid will be sucked back into the syringe. Nice and tidy).
8. Repeat the process from step 5. Keep an eye on the reservoir level – if it approaches full, use the syringe to remove the fluid as per step 3 (if you’re stingy enough, you might re-use this fluid for your next attempt at step 5).
9. If you have twin calipers, move to the other caliper and start the process again from step 5.
You can also use the syringe to draw fluid out of the caliper. This is handy when you are bleeding the system from dry, as there will be air in the caliper above the brake line entry point that you won’t be able to push back up the line.
With a bit of practice, you will find that this method is the quickest way to bleed a brake system – and you will use minimal brake fluids in the process.
This method works on the principle that air bubbles rise in a fluid – so you are working with gravity (rather than against it) to eject any air through the reservoir. The bleed nipple on the caliper is usually the lowest entry point in the brake line system, so this is the point where the fluid is introduced.
1. Go to the local chemist and buy a 20cc syringe. Tell them it’s not for drugs. These are about $1-2 each (the syringes, not the drugs).
2. Get yourself some clear hose – the same stuff you probably have used for normal brake bleeding duties. Cut a piece that’s about 10-15cm long and push this on the end of the syringe. Now you are ready.
3. Open the reservoir cap and suck out the old fluid (if any) with the syringe and tube. Discard this fluid.
4. Place a suitable ring spanner on the caliper bleed nipple (normally 10mm). Make sure it has enough "swing" room to open and close the nipple (about one third of a turn).
5. Fill the syringe about 3 quarters full with fresh fluid (straight from a new bottle). then hold the syringe upright and draw some air into it, clearing the tube of fluid.
6. Push the tube over the bleed nipple. Facing the syringe down, open the nipple slightly and draw a SMALL amount of fluid out of the caliper with the syringe. This will fill the tube with fluid and allow any air to rise to the top of the syringe. Don’t draw too much or you will suck air into the master cylinder.
7. With the caliper nipple still open, push the fresh fluid from the syringe into the caliper. Be careful not to push any of the air from the syringe back into the caliper. When this is done, close the nipple and remove the tube (a good tip here is to close the nipple and draw the syringe – creating a suction effect in the tube over the nipple. Remove the hose and any remaining fluid will be sucked back into the syringe. Nice and tidy).
8. Repeat the process from step 5. Keep an eye on the reservoir level – if it approaches full, use the syringe to remove the fluid as per step 3 (if you’re stingy enough, you might re-use this fluid for your next attempt at step 5).
9. If you have twin calipers, move to the other caliper and start the process again from step 5.
You can also use the syringe to draw fluid out of the caliper. This is handy when you are bleeding the system from dry, as there will be air in the caliper above the brake line entry point that you won’t be able to push back up the line.
With a bit of practice, you will find that this method is the quickest way to bleed a brake system – and you will use minimal brake fluids in the process.
forcefanajd
Over 1,000 Posts
ORR you could go buy a mighty vac from autozone for about $20 which is designed to do exactly what you are doing and then you have the capability to bleed anything by yourself plus much more
forcefanajd said:
Not really...
The idea with the syringe is that you push the fluid UP the lines. Mity Vac is just a vacuum pump and you can still have the problem of fighting gravity and not being able to get all the air out. In fact, if you try and bleed a linked brake Guzzi system (which has the link valve under the tank) with the normal method you won't be able to do it. Only the syringe method will work.
And $2 v's $20+ is a no brainer in my garage ;D
forcefanajd
Over 1,000 Posts
oh, i mustve read it wrong. i thought you were implying to pull the fluid through.
ya i have a mighty vac and it is not all that it is cracked up to be... going to have to find a place to get a seringe though... where the hell can i get that?
not much done last night had to make up some fork bag stereos for customers, i think i may add one of my small 150 watt stereo setups in this fighter as well in the false tank but we will see...
got the booth set up and started to get ready to paint
not much done last night had to make up some fork bag stereos for customers, i think i may add one of my small 150 watt stereo setups in this fighter as well in the false tank but we will see...
got the booth set up and started to get ready to paint
fullmetalrabbit
New Member
JRK5892 said:
Coyotes reek in general. Shot one a couple years back and when i went to skin it, i had to wear a scarf over my face to keep from puking!
A whitetail skull would not be as likely to stink imo as long as it's been cleaned properly or left outside for the element and chickadees to pick clean!
wow! big bike weekend! got a ton done on the fighter and just as much on the gold wing.... got the tank, f fender, front fairing, and chain case cover all painted.
5 coats semi gloss black, 4 coats of mat clear, PERFECTLY the color i wanted.... i was going to do some airbrush work on it but my buddies would not let me, i got the whole "less is more speach" and i have to say, they where right! this looks insane!
also tore appart the calipers and powdered those in gloss black to make them pop a bit on the flat, also coated the rest of the engine cases and all the rest of the orange, now it is just putting it all back together!
(the bolts where all stripped on the inside of this sucker, so rather than messing around trying to get them out, i color matched it to the plastics... looks wicked on the motor and does well to tie in the plastics)
some of the orange (passanger supports and heel guards, as well as the new mirrors)
gloss black brake calipers
engine cases
also got the carbs cleaned and the new jets in... looking good. my speed bleeders came in so when my rebuild kit for the calipers comes in i can get some stopping power on this sucker
5 coats semi gloss black, 4 coats of mat clear, PERFECTLY the color i wanted.... i was going to do some airbrush work on it but my buddies would not let me, i got the whole "less is more speach" and i have to say, they where right! this looks insane!
also tore appart the calipers and powdered those in gloss black to make them pop a bit on the flat, also coated the rest of the engine cases and all the rest of the orange, now it is just putting it all back together!
(the bolts where all stripped on the inside of this sucker, so rather than messing around trying to get them out, i color matched it to the plastics... looks wicked on the motor and does well to tie in the plastics)
some of the orange (passanger supports and heel guards, as well as the new mirrors)
gloss black brake calipers
engine cases
also got the carbs cleaned and the new jets in... looking good. my speed bleeders came in so when my rebuild kit for the calipers comes in i can get some stopping power on this sucker
