Good deal?
- Thread starter Lowered13
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teddpage
Over 1,000 Posts
It looks like everything is there except the seat. The r5 motors are pretty simple to rebuild and parts are fairly easy to come by. If he has a title, then its a definite buy! Hell if it doesnt have a title, but it anyways. R5s are fun for sure!
Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk 2
JustinLonghorn
No Purple Hearts, No Blue Ribbons
Yep, go get it, sir.
He mentions having other parts available too. You might want to inquire about getting some of those as well. Plenty of cats on this site that like to get their hands on spare RD/R5 parts.
He mentions having other parts available too. You might want to inquire about getting some of those as well. Plenty of cats on this site that like to get their hands on spare RD/R5 parts.
theprep
Been Around the Block
That tank is from a 72', good price I'd scoop it before it's gone, then head on over to www.2strokeworld.com to get some ideas before deciding your direction.
Also http://www.yamahar5.com/ is a good resource
Also http://www.yamahar5.com/ is a good resource
Wish I could find that here, would scoop it up
JustinLonghorn
No Purple Hearts, No Blue Ribbons
Awesome man! Post up some pics!
JustinLonghorn
No Purple Hearts, No Blue Ribbons
That is an R5. There are some differences between the RD350 and the R5 motor.
RD350 is a 6 speed. R5 is a 5-speed.
RD350 has reed valves, R5 is piston ported.
RD350 has a disc front brake, R5 has a drum front brake.
RD350 top end will bolt up to a R5 bottom end.
RD350 is a 6 speed. R5 is a 5-speed.
RD350 has reed valves, R5 is piston ported.
RD350 has a disc front brake, R5 has a drum front brake.
RD350 top end will bolt up to a R5 bottom end.
theprep
Been Around the Block
^ what he said. You have an R5, the tank is for sure a 72', did you get a title, what does it say? Look on the steering stem for the VIN.
You can easily drop a late model RD 6 speed in, make sure to also get late model clutch assembly as the boss addresses clutch slip.
When properly set, the drums do a fine job of stopping, I have extensive work done to mine and they perform well.
I did upgrade to grabbier shoes. VonYinzer is working on one now and quite a few others, it's all up to your abilities, taste and wallet.
They're good bikes, easy to work on, parts are relatively inexpensive but it can get pricey if you start down the slippery slope of performance. Your best bet is to cruise the 2SW classifieds, Ebay etc after you've familiarized yourself with the bike and what interchanges. You can pick up vintage pipes and all kinds of good things.
PM me your email, I'll send you all the files I have on these bikes.
You can easily drop a late model RD 6 speed in, make sure to also get late model clutch assembly as the boss addresses clutch slip.
When properly set, the drums do a fine job of stopping, I have extensive work done to mine and they perform well.
I did upgrade to grabbier shoes. VonYinzer is working on one now and quite a few others, it's all up to your abilities, taste and wallet.
They're good bikes, easy to work on, parts are relatively inexpensive but it can get pricey if you start down the slippery slope of performance. Your best bet is to cruise the 2SW classifieds, Ebay etc after you've familiarized yourself with the bike and what interchanges. You can pick up vintage pipes and all kinds of good things.
PM me your email, I'll send you all the files I have on these bikes.
What they said. ill add the rd has a better fork (not much better, but better none the less) the seat are alittle different and the side cover are dressed up different but the cover them selves are the same you will find most all the visual parts ie tank fenders seat bla bla bla will swap between the ds7 r5 rd 250/350 and a lot of the 400 parts as well yamaha developed this bike for the better part of 12 years even longer if ya get in to the water cooled models rd350lc and rz350 and banshee quads till the 2000s my rd is A 74 and has a fair amount of banshee parts in the motor.its a if it ant broke run it til the epa kills it then make a bad ass 4 wheeler outta it kinda thing.
theprep
Been Around the Block
Yes, and don't go with the black, it's zinc and rust, I owned them. Are you missing case bolts? You can get those at Fastenal for about $8
The main things you need to do now that it's yours:
Verify this first on the steering stem:
Engine or Frame Numbers (start-end)
1970 R5(A) - R5-000101 - 013649
1971 R5B - R5-015101 - 042209
1972 R5C - R5-100101 - 130606
Grab these manuals second:
http://www.lawrenceotoole.com/r5/YamRD250350Man.pdf
http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/vmmanual.pdf
Do this last:
1. Check compression
2. Leak down test (you can build one)
3. Check carb boots for leaks
4. Clean carbs, jets, verify which pilot and mains you have (Ultrasonic is best, but ammonia mixture and soak will work) Stock for most of U.S. is 30 pilot, 120 main, 1.5 turns out idle screw, clip on the needle 4th/3rd position.
5. Check timing with dial gauge for each cylinder and multimeter. Check gap of points, correct, test output of charging system
6. Check plugs, see what color they are if you know bike has been ran recently by PO, replace them anyway correctly gapped .25
7. Check autolube pump, make sure it's working correctly and within spec
Two strokes do not like to be without oil nor ran lean. If low oil, a seizure is possible, if lean a holed piston.
I would not start it up, or if you already have, not again until the above has been checked throughly
Once that is done, come back for more, I don't want to overwhelm you.
The main things you need to do now that it's yours:
Verify this first on the steering stem:
Engine or Frame Numbers (start-end)
1970 R5(A) - R5-000101 - 013649
1971 R5B - R5-015101 - 042209
1972 R5C - R5-100101 - 130606
Grab these manuals second:
http://www.lawrenceotoole.com/r5/YamRD250350Man.pdf
http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/vmmanual.pdf
Do this last:
1. Check compression
2. Leak down test (you can build one)
3. Check carb boots for leaks
4. Clean carbs, jets, verify which pilot and mains you have (Ultrasonic is best, but ammonia mixture and soak will work) Stock for most of U.S. is 30 pilot, 120 main, 1.5 turns out idle screw, clip on the needle 4th/3rd position.
5. Check timing with dial gauge for each cylinder and multimeter. Check gap of points, correct, test output of charging system
6. Check plugs, see what color they are if you know bike has been ran recently by PO, replace them anyway correctly gapped .25
7. Check autolube pump, make sure it's working correctly and within spec
Two strokes do not like to be without oil nor ran lean. If low oil, a seizure is possible, if lean a holed piston.
I would not start it up, or if you already have, not again until the above has been checked throughly
Once that is done, come back for more, I don't want to overwhelm you.
theprep
Been Around the Block
Excellent, still follow the above after your get the engine buttoned back up.
Here's a great step by step of rebuild, RD 350 but still applies to R5:
http://www.aircooledrdclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=25398.0
Take lots of pictures, use baggies with labels already applied for each section. Magic marker doesn't write too well with grease on bag.
Here's a great step by step of rebuild, RD 350 but still applies to R5:
http://www.aircooledrdclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=25398.0
Take lots of pictures, use baggies with labels already applied for each section. Magic marker doesn't write too well with grease on bag.
theprep
Been Around the Block
Why not replace them all in an afternoon, have that piece of mind? The Sudco kit's only $37.50 +10% forum discountbradj said:
http://www.economycycle.com/servlet/the-67/Sudco-fdsh-ARS-Engine-Oil-Seal/Detail
Snug
New Member
Get it! On an unrelated note, when I was stationed in Norfolk, Virginia i had to take emergency leave home to Oregon. A last minute plane ticket from Norfolk to Portland, Oregon was going to be crazy I thought. Found one for around $200 to my surprise. Quickly bought the ticket for the following day. Get to the airport only to realize I bought the ticket to Portland, Maine. Not Portland, Oregon.
