Great day in the workshop

[Shooter]

Got some things done today that had frustrated me and were unfinished parts of my finished project. I am well pleased with my efforts.

Re jetted the carbs for the pods - successful.

Sorted the key/ignition. I had pulled the whole key device to bits and had never quite got round to putting it back together properly . Do not undertake this task lightly (or pissed). Its quite an effort to work the logic out on how to reassemble this thing but I did work it out eventually ...and then had to make a tiny screw to hold it all together. The original had gone AWOL but it is vital to have it

Point to note : these bikes would be so easy to start without the key.

Worked out why I was getting a strange ride feeling seemingly coming from the rear wheel. The chain has many tight spots even though it looks perfect. Simple job to get and put a new one on. Great relief because I thought I had axle and bearing issues.

 

[HerrDeacon]

Good to hear Shooter. Always a good feeling finishing up tasks that have been dragging on for too long. I've been putting off the wiring on mine all winter but I have to get to it soon. I also have to rejet for pods like you do put have yet to buy the jets.

 

[Shooter]

If its any help - try the #110 jets (I also get the feeling that #112 or #115 would be fine as well). BTW - its a simple job made simpler by having pods. So easy to remove the carbs. I removed the tank also.

Good luck.

My last two exercises are to improve the front brakes and changeout the front indicators and think about decals (if any).

 

[TonUpSoldier]

Shooter, one thing to consider if you have tightness only in spots in your chain: I dunno if you did on your rebuild, but the sprockets could do with an inspection. If you have a raised, twisted or worn tooth or teeth, you will experience just what you are speaking of. Best way to check obviously is to pull the sprockets, but a good way of checking that otherwise is to put the bike on the centerstand, in neutral and check your chain alignment. If thats good, turn the wheel by hand, feeling for spots it may catch. If youve got some spots, i would inspect both sprockets. Usually its one or the other, but can be both, fronts, in my observation, tend to wear faster than the rear. Pull the sprocket, look down the sprocket as if your eye were the chain, if you see an out of line tooth, twisted or higher than the rest, replace it imediately. If youve ridden that way on the chain, i would suggest replacing it too. Ive had the same problem, and went to inspect, only to have the chain come apart in my hand. NOT good. A buddy of my pops was killed when his chain broke, wrapped up in his rear wheel, and tossed him over the bars, breaking his neck instantly. And yeah, he was wearing a helmet.

 

[Shooter]

I analysed the chain by slowly rotating the rear wheel (on the centre stand). Every few links I checked the amount of travel in the centre of the chain (up and down). It varied a lot eg 20-25mm in some spots and 30 - 40mm in others.

I can actually feel and hear the tension variations as I slowly turn the rear by hand.

On your advice, I will take a closer look at the sprockets when I fit the new chain (which I bought to day). Thanx

 

[Tim]

Whenever you buy a new chain, spend the extra few bucks and buy new sprockets too. Its the only way to ensure even wear on both and proper operation.

While I'd be surprised if your sprockets were actually 'oval' at this point, if your old chain requires replacement, your sprockets do too. Even if they look ok to the naked eye.

 

[zixxerboy]

Shooter, Remember that the chain has tighter and looser areas as you rotate it. When setting the chain always spin the wheel to make sure it's not too tight in the tight area - if that makes sense.

 

[Shooter]

Problem solved today. New chain fitted and old sprockets checked.

Sprockets were fine and chain had seized links. To the eye the old chain looked perfect and no rust or corrosion was evident anywhere.

Ride (and safety) is 100% improved. ;D