Homesick vagrant
New Member
New boots and lube made it much much easier
GS650 Cherry Poppin Build
- Thread starter GodSilla650
- Start date
mmaurin
Been Around the Block
if you can work it out in your head heres a good tip...
i think its like a magicians box where you line everything up and then slide the thin piece of sheet metal out and voila!
this $50 mod page is one of my favorites on the site
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg525011#msg525011
i think its like a magicians box where you line everything up and then slide the thin piece of sheet metal out and voila!
this $50 mod page is one of my favorites on the site
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg525011#msg525011
Homesick vagrant
New Member
Running the filters like that sucks.. It chokes the bike and kills power, a lot.
It seems like these bikes don't like to be jetted richer when they get modified.
Symptoms of running rich: RPMs get stuck, like hitting a rev limiter, stops abruptly.
Symptoms of running lean: RPMs will climb but start breaking up once you hit a certain RPM.
It seems like these bikes don't like to be jetted richer when they get modified.
Symptoms of running rich: RPMs get stuck, like hitting a rev limiter, stops abruptly.
Symptoms of running lean: RPMs will climb but start breaking up once you hit a certain RPM.
GodSilla650
Been Around the Block
GodSilla650
Been Around the Block
A couple more pictures of it the new bike, I will probably start another thread for the build of this bike. The plan is to just get it running and ride it as is for the summer while I customize the original bike I got, maybe swapping some parts between them. The kid I bought it from said he rebuilt the carbs, installed new carb boots, and replaced the stator.
He said it would not run after he did the stator, his story was a little fuzzy, first he said the stator went out while riding, leading me to assume it stopped running at that point. Later he said that it would run just start cutting out on the top end. Either way the bike will not start right now. It will crank, but very slowly, even with a charger on it. I bypassed the battery and used a charger and a jumper pack and it still cranked slowly and died very quickly. This is leading me to believe it might be the rectifier/regulator because voltage is being supplied, but doesn't seem to be 100% getting to the starter. I am going to read over the stator papers on GSResources to see if I can make any more sense of it.
I might pull the carbs apart on this one even though he said he did them because everything was put back together with silicone including the carb boots, so I'm assuming there are either no o-rings or the old flat ones are in there covered in silicone. Also he was using a paper towel for the air filter. haha not the most quality work.
The good news it that it has a new master cylinder and new tires, the wiring isn't hacked up, it has lower handle bars, possibly the ones that came on the G model or aftermarket I'm not sure. He also said that it had several new cables (to accommodate for the handle bars I assume).
He said it would not run after he did the stator, his story was a little fuzzy, first he said the stator went out while riding, leading me to assume it stopped running at that point. Later he said that it would run just start cutting out on the top end. Either way the bike will not start right now. It will crank, but very slowly, even with a charger on it. I bypassed the battery and used a charger and a jumper pack and it still cranked slowly and died very quickly. This is leading me to believe it might be the rectifier/regulator because voltage is being supplied, but doesn't seem to be 100% getting to the starter. I am going to read over the stator papers on GSResources to see if I can make any more sense of it.
I might pull the carbs apart on this one even though he said he did them because everything was put back together with silicone including the carb boots, so I'm assuming there are either no o-rings or the old flat ones are in there covered in silicone. Also he was using a paper towel for the air filter. haha not the most quality work.
The good news it that it has a new master cylinder and new tires, the wiring isn't hacked up, it has lower handle bars, possibly the ones that came on the G model or aftermarket I'm not sure. He also said that it had several new cables (to accommodate for the handle bars I assume).
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hardline_42
Active Member
Nice! I suggest you use the two bikes to build one stock, running bike ASAP and get riding. Then you can build the other one using the feedback you get from the stock bike to make improvements.
GodSilla650
Been Around the Block
That's the plan. I am pretty sure that the problem with the new bike is the rectifier so I'm going to pull it off of my old bike today and swap it over. If that is the problem I'm going to head go ahead and order one, But I will start riding the bike with the old rectifier ASAP. After reading over the stator papers it seems like I should probably replace my other rectifier even if it is good.
hardline_42
Active Member
GodSilla650 said:
It's not a bad idea. I ordered my SH775 from 2wheelpros for just under $70. If you're going to bullet-proof the electrical system, take a look at posplayr's (from the GS resources) Solid State Power Box and get a rewound stator from Steve, if you need it. Don't forget to do all the basics, first (clean all grounds, check voltages, etc.).
GodSilla650
Been Around the Block
Thanks Hardline, I will look into that. The new bike has a new stator, but the old one has a stock one as far as I know. Is there a good reason to get a new stator and R/R if they are currently working fine or would it be ok to just replace the R/R? As far as I can tell from my research it is the R/R that causes the stator to go bad so if you replaced the R/R wouldn't the old stator be a lot less likely to go bad? Or is it more of an insurance policy to replace the stator because it will take out other shit if it does go bad? Have you ever heard of anyone running a computer processor heat sink on the backside of an R/R for additional heat dissipation? I have a monster one laying around and thought it might not be a bad idea if I could tuck it away somewhere, it even has a fan on it. It might be over kill or redundant though.
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hardline_42
Active Member
GodSilla650 said:
You'd be fine just replacing the R/R. That's why I said to get a rewound stator, if you need it. The Shindengen R/R has a pretty beefy heat sink and fins already, but if you were planning on putting the R/R somewhere it doesn't get any airflow, the cooling fan might not be a bad idea.
GodSilla650
Been Around the Block
Carb Boot R&R
I thought I would post up some pictures of the Carb boot removal and install. I was able to use an impact driver only on the outer upper screws, all the other ones there was not enough clearance. For the other screws I removed the bit from the impact driver, inserted it into the screw, hit it with a hammer several times then took a ratchet with the correct size socket and fit it over the bit. I then applied pressure on the back of the head of the ratchet so the bit wouldn't pop out of the screw and strip it out and turned the screw with the ratchet at the same time. All the screws came out no problem this way, I could have even reused them if I wanted to. As you can see in the picture the old O-Rings were completely flat, the new ones extend past the flat surface of the carb boot (the oring is not pressed all the way down on the right side). I hope this helps someone out there with stuck screws out there, I have found that hammering on a bit or screwdriver with a ridged handle will often free a seized screw.
I thought I would post up some pictures of the Carb boot removal and install. I was able to use an impact driver only on the outer upper screws, all the other ones there was not enough clearance. For the other screws I removed the bit from the impact driver, inserted it into the screw, hit it with a hammer several times then took a ratchet with the correct size socket and fit it over the bit. I then applied pressure on the back of the head of the ratchet so the bit wouldn't pop out of the screw and strip it out and turned the screw with the ratchet at the same time. All the screws came out no problem this way, I could have even reused them if I wanted to. As you can see in the picture the old O-Rings were completely flat, the new ones extend past the flat surface of the carb boot (the oring is not pressed all the way down on the right side). I hope this helps someone out there with stuck screws out there, I have found that hammering on a bit or screwdriver with a ridged handle will often free a seized screw.
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GodSilla650
Been Around the Block
I didn't rebuild the carbs yet, but it ran considerably better with the new boots. I had seperation on two of the carb boots so I believe there was a lot of air getting in causing it to run really lean.
Homesick vagrant
New Member
Are by chance going to have a spare air box lid floating around, or are you going to eventually put 2 bikes together?
GodSilla650
Been Around the Block
Homesick- I would have two extra airbox lids floating around if everyone on here hadn't told me to stay the hell away from pods. So unfortunately I will not have any extra I am just going to stick with the stock air boxes on both of the bikes.
GodSilla650
Been Around the Block
So I have a little update on the second bike. I solve the slow cranking problem. It was some hacked up wiring in the main ground going from the engine to the battery. I picked up a new battery as well. Unfortunately a whole can of starting fluid later the bike still will not start.
I have cleaned up wiring, swapped over a factory rectifier and igniter from my other bike which was running, The PO said he rebuilt the carbs, which I believe but after seeing the quality of his wiring I doubt he did it correctly.
I have a Polaris rectifier ordered and I plan to rebuild the carbs, but I didn't get so much as a pop when I was spraying the starting fluid.
It has spark, I would think the starting fluid is pretty much taking any car problems out of the equation I did not check compression but even with bad or low compression in a few cylinders I would think I would still get a pop here or there
Does anyone have any ideas of what my problem might be here?
I have cleaned up wiring, swapped over a factory rectifier and igniter from my other bike which was running, The PO said he rebuilt the carbs, which I believe but after seeing the quality of his wiring I doubt he did it correctly.
I have a Polaris rectifier ordered and I plan to rebuild the carbs, but I didn't get so much as a pop when I was spraying the starting fluid.
It has spark, I would think the starting fluid is pretty much taking any car problems out of the equation I did not check compression but even with bad or low compression in a few cylinders I would think I would still get a pop here or there
Does anyone have any ideas of what my problem might be here?
GodSilla650
Been Around the Block
Has anyone done Mr. Matchless's Ignition Coil Relay mod? It sounds like this could be my problem. I have spark, but I don't really know if it is weak or not.
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/electrical_odd-n-ends.html#A10
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/electrical_odd-n-ends.html#A10
GodSilla650
Been Around the Block
Big Rich- Did you notice the bike starting or running any better after you did the mod?
My Bike isn't currently running, but I assume you can still measure the voltage at the coils while the bike is cranking.
My Bike isn't currently running, but I assume you can still measure the voltage at the coils while the bike is cranking.
