Heat treating

my-79-750-k

Therapy is expensive. Riding is cheap. You decide.
So, I'm not sure if anyone has covered this, but we do it a lot at my work and I figured I should share some knowledge about it in return for the help I've gotten so far on the bike. Kind of a quick run down on a fast, efficient way to heat treat/harden smaller parts.

Tools needed:
Oxy/Acetylene torch kit. A propane torch will not get hot enough!! (Harbor Freight $280 for the small portable kit)
"Rosebud" torch tip
METAL container (very important it be metal, not plastic)
Enough used motor oil in container to cover biggest part to be treated.
Maybe a face mask for oil fumes
Whatever you want to heat treat
Piece of wire or long pliers for handling hot parts

1. Clear out a space for heating up parts. Make sure there is nothing flammable nearby.
2. SLOWLY heat part (1 at a time) until it just starts to turn red throughout. Solid pieces are a little more difficult and take more time to heat, but do not necessarily have to be "red".
3. Turn torch off!
4. Grab part with long reach pliers, or lift with some sturdy wire and completely submerge in oil. (This is why the metal bucket is encouraged.) While submerged, slowly move part back and forth in oil.
5. When the part is no longer creating bubbles in the oil, lift up, draining excess oil. Place back in "burning" area.
6. Reheat part. DO NOT GET IT RED. You just want to heat it 'til the excess oil dries off. This extra step takes the brittleness out of the metal.
7. Let it cool at room temp. Shouldn't take too long.
8. Take some scotch-brite or fine sandpaper and polish off "oil-crust" and you're done.

If someone else already posted something like this, well, sorry 'bout that. But if not, this will give you the option of not having to ruin your home oven or going out and buying another oven just for heat treating. And this takes a LOT less time than an oven. I had to heat treat 18 bushings and 2 pins today and I was done in an hour. Later.
 
Great post.

When reheating for the second stage, you should stop when you start to see the coloured / rainbow banding appear.

Cheers.
 
Cibby600 said:
Great post.

When reheating for the second stage, you should stop when you start to see the coloured / rainbow banding appear.

Cheers.

Yeah, forgot to include that as an indicator for enough reheat.
 
believe it's called case hardening, causes carbides to form in the surface layer of most steel, kinda like anodizing aluminum, makes it more resistant to abrasion
 
Wee Todd said:
Why would yo have to heat treat any part!!!!!!! this was done at the factory

Not ALL, and what if you want to make your own bits.
I made a few shims up for under my valve springs and did exactly this to harden them.

Just good info to know.

Cheers.
 
Like Cibby said, not all parts are heat treated. However, if you have access to a lathe, as a lot do as far as I can tell, and you want to make your own parts instead of paying ridiculous prices, then you can do this and they will be just as good as the bought pieces and last just as long.
 
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