hello. my name is drøn

[drøn]

i have been lurking for quite some time now, but figured i might as well say hi.

i live in copenhagne, denmark where i study architecture. and this summer i got an old motorbike and a son.

this is the bike:

1976 suzuki gt500 smoker.
i am not planing to do a big conversion project, but i do like to make some improvements on appearance as well as performance.

the main problem so far is starting and idling. it is a bitch to start and it can't hold an idle. i have tried to adjust the idle screws, but when they are set to hold the idle it is completely impossible to start the bike. could it be something with the syncing or the idle mixture? how do i find out? i am completey clueless here.

that was only the first question and there's many more to come - some even dumber. i hope some gentle souls will care to help me or point me in the direction of info.

cheers
drøn

 

[IndieSol]

What kind of troubleshooting have you done thus far ?

I'm definitely still a newbie, and as far as motorbikes go I've really only worked on my Honda, but if it were me, I'd.....

1. Get my hands on the Suzuki shop manual. Hopefully someone here can post a link, as I'm not sure where to look for one. Worst case scenario, pick yourself up a Clymer. It's better than nothing.
2. Pick up some carb rebuild kits, carb cleaner, compressed air, a grunge brush and some piano wire or an "E" guitar string, and give the carbs a good thorough cleaning.
3. Adjust and synchronize the carburetors as per the shop manual.

That's where I would start based on your description of the problem and the picture of the bike, but that's assuming you haven't already tinkered with them. The one thing I'll say for sure is that the carburetors on these old bikes must be kept scrupulously clean in order to work properly, and it's really not all that hard to do.

When I clean the carbs, I lay the parts on a shop towel as I disassemble in order from top to bottom, take a picture, then clean the parts, and I don't separate the carbs unless necessary.

Anyways, good luck and let us know what happened.

 

[VonYinzer]

Very cool bike. Welcome to the site! Sounds like maybe you have a weak spark. Have you tested the electrical system? Are the plugs new? Im no two stroke expert by any means though, so take what I say with a grain of salt.

 

[BigBSBusa]

Welcome to DTT.

 

[drøn]

ha! the air filter hoses were loosened and letting in tons of 'false air'. the airfilter itself is pretty nasty so i take the opportunity to change to some modern ones.
i haven't checked the plugs yet, but i'm changing them as well anyways.

 

[drøn]

i'm sorry for not updating this thread, but i am just a noob.
not much has happened but i have figured out that it must be an electrical issue. now there's no spark at all. will have to check the coils.

in the meantime i have been pondering about what to do with it once it is running.
i'd like it to loose some wheight but besides the fenders i really don't know what i can safely remove and still keep it street legal. please can you help me with some ideas?

i've also been thinking about changing the rear shocks for some longer ones. my theory is that a steeper head tube angle and a higher center of gravity would give a more manoeuvereable bike. is this completely off? will 2" longer shocks make any difference at all?

as for performance, i'm changing to pod filters and starting to save up for some chambers...

 

[IndieSol]

I'd suggest cutting or "bobbing" the front fender as opposed to removal. As well as its aesthetic (or not) purpose, it also acts as a fork brace. Some people keep it and some don't, just be aware. A lot of the ways people shave off weight involve their own specific set of solutions, because most parts on these bikes have some type of purpose that must be dealt with. If your bike has a kick start, you could lose the electric start and run a smaller battery. Lots of guys remove their airboxes and factory air filters, but then you have to run pods or velocity stacks, and with that comes rejetting of the carbs. Some guys relocate the battery and electrics. Some people cut off the center stand, but if you're ever going to store the bike for a while, it's a good idea to leave it mounted on some type of center stand, even if it's something you buy from a bike shop. The bottom line is that many ways that people save weight involve modifying the frame and finding a solution for whatever is missing.

Some really easy ways are rear fender removal, trim down the front fender in size, lose the passenger footpegs, replace the turn signals with lighter weight after market units or lose them entirely, remove the chain guard (not the sprocket cover), etc. If you're a little more bold, you can drill some vent holes in the rotors and sprocket cover. The exhaust is heavy, but if you replace it you may have to rejet the carbs also.

I suggest taking a look at a lot of completed cafe builds to see what people have removed, and the headaches associated with them. Rejetting these old bikes for exhaust can really be a pain, but I've also seen some people handle it with no problems.

What ever you choose to do, there is plenty of help around to assist you in getting it sorted.

 

[two-smoker]

I know you say you have a spark issue, but I think that's unrelated to the previous hard start/ bad idle problem. The pilot jets in the Suzuki carbs are really small and plug up fast if the bike sits too long. Clean or replace the pilot jets in the carbs, and I bet once the spark issue is sorted it idles and starts fine.
(I used to have to do a carb job yearly, even if I drained out the gas before winter storage. Common problem with these bikes.)

 

[drøn]

thank you both

i will clean the jets as i have to rejet when i change the air filters and maybe exhaust.

how much more power do you think i can gain with expansion chambers?

 

[Ethanol]

thank you both

i will clean the jets as i have to rejet when i change the air filters and maybe exhaust.

how much more power do you think i can gain with expansion chambers?

Really hard to say. Depends on the pipes. Some will be very peaky, that is just giving power at high RPM. Others may offer more overall power, really depends. It's also important to change jetting/carb stuff as well. I love 2-strokes but so many of the expansion chambers look great but offer little return on their cost.

 

[Ethanol]

Really hard to say. Depends on the pipes. Some will be very peaky, that is just giving power at high RPM. Others may offer more overall power, really depends. It's also important to change jetting/carb stuff as well. I love 2-strokes but so many of the expansion chambers look great but offer little return on their cost.

There's a guy on here that does lots of gt500 stuff http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=7106

Here's his ebay page: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Suzuki-Gt500-T500-TR500-expansion-chambers-exhausts-NEW-/300492928505?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item45f6c635f9

Seems very reasonable.

 

[drøn]

those are the same guys.

they seems to be some cool blokes and do some solid work as well.
though it's probably a very good price and worth it their chambers still are a good bit over my budget.

 

[Ethanol]

Yeah expansion pipes aren't cheap. They are difficult to produce because of all the welding and the research and development takes a lot of time if you want to design a pipe that actually produces any benefit.

 

[drøn]

that's true

i'm thinking about just slamming a set of cheap ass short reverse cones on it. inspired by some of the wrenchmonkees builds.
luckily i have a few months until riding season begins to make up my mind.

 

[Ethanol]

that's true

i'm thinking about just slamming a set of cheap ass short reverse cones on it. inspired by some of the wrenchmonkees builds.
luckily i have a few months until riding season begins to make up my mind.

I'm using those reverse megaphones on my kz and I like them but it is a 4-stroke. Wonder what effect it would have on your bike.

 

[drøn]

probably just sound and weight

 

[drøn]

and looks of course...

 

[TR500]

Yeah expansion pipes aren't cheap. They are difficult to produce because of all the welding and the research and development takes a lot of time if you want to design a pipe that actually produces any benefit.

Hi ethanol, actually spannys are quite cheap to produce I can usually get 3 pairs of race chambers out of a 8' x 4' sheet of 18g which is on average about £36 gbp, usually I hydraulicly form, but do development pipes from patterns and these days there is plenty of software to print out developed cone patterns, I use a program called sheet lightning, and the welding is easy with experience and good kit.
The pipes you mention available on ebay are just copies of a well known 1970's manufacturers pipes, no development what so ever (or they would have precise jetting info) not sure about other countrys but in the UK they are illegal to use on the road, and will not pass our MOT test, which is why I stick to race systems, because as a seller I could be prosecured in the uk for selling them without clear "not for road use" markings and not clearly stating in adverts, now some folks may know the law and use knowingly and take a chance, but without warning some may not know and get prosecuted for illegal exhaust system. yer see its not quite so simple as knocking up some pipes in your back yard.

 

[Ethanol]

Hi ethanol, actually spannys are quite cheap to produce... and the welding is easy

yer see its not quite so simple as knocking up some pipes in your back yard.

So which is it? Easy or hard?

Also why do you have to take every opportunity to bash the other gt500 guys? If you think it's good for your business it's not. You have nothing to show, you just keep putting down the guys that have actually demonstrated a product.

What, exactly then are the performance gains from your pipes? Do you have dyno tests? Pics?

 

[TR500]

So which is it? Easy or hard?

Easy to make hard to design

Also why do you have to take every opportunity to bash the other gt500 guys? If you think it's good for your business it's not. You have nothing to show, you just keep putting down the guys that have actually demonstrated a product.

not interested if you think its good for my business because thats not the intention, read the post properly, they are producing a component that is ILLEGAL to use on UK roads, with no warning to buyers.

What, exactly then are the performance gains from your pipes? Do you have dyno tests? Pics?

Performance gains, how about race winning bikes, 75 bhp on avarage bike 90 bhp on peaky long circuit bike, 105 bhp on sprint bike all T500's dyno tests regularly, my pipes as stated are for race bikes not road. if you want my products do what most people do ..... contact me or wait for the web site.

I am stunned how you people are taken in by the bullshit these two 5 minute wonders spin on the web, they have built what 2 bikes? lately, 2 over 30 yrs and copied lots of other peoples stuff, and they wonderful why...because they talk nice and do good pics!!!!

me I have rebuilt about 2000 t/gt500's restored about 35, have built 26 race bikes sent world wide, prepared bikes that have won championships and races,.........but I am bloody useless with computers, have no time for pillocks in the flesh or on the web, diplomatic I am not and dont intend to be.

And also partner in a business thats produces quality replica race frames used world wide, which amazingly does not have a web site either!!!! quality not bullshit sells LONG TERM.

I dont even really know why I am bothering to answer you, other than I am pissed off with people sticking up for a pair of plagiarists who are only doing this because their own trade is down the tubes.

Sorry Dron for this on your thread, if you want any real advice contact me directly, I wont be posting again except on my own thread