help... please!

[crazypj]

If battery is 'dead' it won't show correct voltage.
You need a charged battery to check outputs (at least 12.5v)
You won't get anything like accurate readings with a car battery either, it's just too big and will absorb bike charge as though it wasn't there.

You can use multi-meter on Ohm's scale to check stator.
light green with red tracer is neutral lead and should show continuity to ground (in neutral)
The pink, white, yellow wires should have continuity between each other but not to ground

 

[Thedyingninja]

okay... so with the bike running put a lead on the light green with red traces and one to the engine (or any ground), if i get a reading i have a circuit?
okay so if i have a charged battery and put it in how do i check the stator? start the bike and see if i get higher voltage at the battery terminals with it running and with it revved up?

 

[crazypj]

Download service manual plus use search function, there are a few 'walk through' stator test posted

 

[Thedyingninja]

Okay, so im changing the title of this thread to "ima dumbass"
so heres what fixed my bike...
new spark plug, new battery, and a stretchy cord to hold my choke down because somehow to kept closing which is what was causing my bike to sputter and act like crap at higher rpms and then all of a sudden cut out...
so ima dumbass.
charged up the new battery and put it in the bike, went for a half hour ride and it seems to me holding its voltage just fine.

 

[Tim]

We've all been there. Definitely a fully charged battery is a must when starting out.

Now that it's sorted, check the voltage at the battery terminals with the bike running. Should increase to 13+ volts when you rev the engine a bit. Another indicator if your charging system is working is if that 30 year old headlight bulb gets a bit brighter when you rev the engine.