redwillissuperman
Keep it simple- engine, wheels, bars
I check each day and still no update 
Holy cr*p it's a 1976 Honda CXRL650R street-tracking dirt-jumper! (and beer)...
- Thread starter osteoderm
- Start date
osteoderm
Been Around the Block
The whole FCR-MX air-filter jibber-jabber dealie-thinger took some head-scratcherin' to figger out, but came together okay in the end. First off, you need to use the XR650L intake boot:
Then you need some sort of adapter. There's a couple available out there to fit the stock airbox, but nothing I could find to move a pod filter further back. The other issue is that the FCR intake is smaller/offset from the mounting ring of the carb body, with the float-bowl vent and idle air jet inlets alongside it. The adaptor I made is a sophisticated PVC/Epoxy composite thinger, with an offset tapered internal bore and machined inlets for the air jet and float vent. Just clears the shock body by just enough.
An angled-boot UNI two-stage fits on the adapter:
The sidecover smushes against the filter a bit, but everything clears the shock and fits together without strain.
Then you need some sort of adapter. There's a couple available out there to fit the stock airbox, but nothing I could find to move a pod filter further back. The other issue is that the FCR intake is smaller/offset from the mounting ring of the carb body, with the float-bowl vent and idle air jet inlets alongside it. The adaptor I made is a sophisticated PVC/Epoxy composite thinger, with an offset tapered internal bore and machined inlets for the air jet and float vent. Just clears the shock body by just enough.
An angled-boot UNI two-stage fits on the adapter:
The sidecover smushes against the filter a bit, but everything clears the shock and fits together without strain.
osteoderm
Been Around the Block
In other news, I'm juuuuust about done with the electrcky bits. Only 16 more wires to connect.
I complicated things too much by deciding to leave service loops and open fuse positions in place for possible future additions like additional turn signals (only bar-ends for now), auxiliary lighting, and/or ejector seat(s). Even so, the complete Ricky Stator get-up with battery and all is a fraction of the size/weight of the mutant 600R/650L mash-up it replaces... and it all fits under the seat! Without excessiveforce persuasion!
I complicated things too much by deciding to leave service loops and open fuse positions in place for possible future additions like additional turn signals (only bar-ends for now), auxiliary lighting, and/or ejector seat(s). Even so, the complete Ricky Stator get-up with battery and all is a fraction of the size/weight of the mutant 600R/650L mash-up it replaces... and it all fits under the seat! Without excessive
sleventynineR
Life in slow motion at 110 mph
scribd- wicked build
OH MY!
JustinLonghorn
No Purple Hearts, No Blue Ribbons
I got a bottle of Bulleit for my birthday. Tasty stuff.
osteoderm
Been Around the Block
There's always a latch-ditch battle to resist rushing the details at the end, and for myself, the winning strategy often involves throwing the budget out the window. Case in point: The Headlight:
I always wanted to use this Yamaha Chappy headlight:
So attached to the idea of this headlight that I went a touch overboard with waterjet-cut mounts, etc., and it was the first piece I painted. The problem has always been the light itself... It's a 6v sealed-beam, with no obvious replacement available. I only have the one bucket, but I had a couple bulbs and bezels to play with...
I cut the filament out of this one with some half-formed idea of bodging in an H4 conversion base...
The problem with these conversions is that the new halogen filaments are never in the right place to work with the geometry of the old reflector, so even after a bunch of time and money, you end up with a light that is plenty bright, but not particularly useful on the road. Over the past year, while making progress on other areas, I was constantly digging for the perfect 12v replacement bulb to let me keep this Chappy headlight while giving me decent light. And, of course, this stylish little headlight doesn't fit fuck-all for modern bulbs. Seriously. Of course, having said that, one of you is going to want to comment with the perfect cheap/effective/simple solution... please, try to keep it to yourself; I've suffered too much!
In no slight desperation, this is what I came up with:
Ugly, heavy, expensive, but 4900 lumens vs the 1000-1500 lumens of your typical H4. I ordered one with no more than a weak suspicion that it could be made to fit...
Of course, I had to chop the shit out of the Chappy bucket...
With a quick scuff'n'respray, and a little more black trim around the inside of the bezel, and we're good.
The opening in the back of the bucket for the protruding heatsink ended up being better-looking than I had imagined, and blends well with the Trailtech unit mounted right above it. I'll need a slightly different switch for thehighbeam dimming circuit, but it works super awesome while looking like it fits the theme. I just wish it had been cheaper.
I always wanted to use this Yamaha Chappy headlight:
So attached to the idea of this headlight that I went a touch overboard with waterjet-cut mounts, etc., and it was the first piece I painted. The problem has always been the light itself... It's a 6v sealed-beam, with no obvious replacement available. I only have the one bucket, but I had a couple bulbs and bezels to play with...
I cut the filament out of this one with some half-formed idea of bodging in an H4 conversion base...
The problem with these conversions is that the new halogen filaments are never in the right place to work with the geometry of the old reflector, so even after a bunch of time and money, you end up with a light that is plenty bright, but not particularly useful on the road. Over the past year, while making progress on other areas, I was constantly digging for the perfect 12v replacement bulb to let me keep this Chappy headlight while giving me decent light. And, of course, this stylish little headlight doesn't fit fuck-all for modern bulbs. Seriously. Of course, having said that, one of you is going to want to comment with the perfect cheap/effective/simple solution... please, try to keep it to yourself; I've suffered too much!
In no slight desperation, this is what I came up with:
Ugly, heavy, expensive, but 4900 lumens vs the 1000-1500 lumens of your typical H4. I ordered one with no more than a weak suspicion that it could be made to fit...
Of course, I had to chop the shit out of the Chappy bucket...
With a quick scuff'n'respray, and a little more black trim around the inside of the bezel, and we're good.
The opening in the back of the bucket for the protruding heatsink ended up being better-looking than I had imagined, and blends well with the Trailtech unit mounted right above it. I'll need a slightly different switch for the
osteoderm
Been Around the Block
Another shot of the whole headlight / tripleclamp situation. I'm really stoked on how this turned out! The wiring could use a little more detailing, but it's good enough for a first attempt...
...and here's the lower, with a quickie throttle cable guide...
Welding rod, heatshrink tubing, and patience. This screw is for a no-longer-in-use speedo cable guide. There's probably a slicker pre-made way to do this, but I'm getting pretty tired of searching online for weird clips.
...and here's the lower, with a quickie throttle cable guide...
Welding rod, heatshrink tubing, and patience. This screw is for a no-longer-in-use speedo cable guide. There's probably a slicker pre-made way to do this, but I'm getting pretty tired of searching online for weird clips.
sleventynineR
Life in slow motion at 110 mph
osteoderm said:Another shot of the whole headlight / tripleclamp situation. I'm really stoked on how this turned out! The wiring could use a little more detailing, but it's good enough for a first attempt...
Looking at your tank in this picture, it has a black bead/seam running around the whatamacallitit perimeter of the tank. This would look good on your headlight opening where the back of the headlight is open.....just a thought.
osteoderm
Been Around the Block
[quote author=sleventynineR]
Looking at your tank in this picture, it has a black bead/seam running around the whatamacallitit perimeter of the tank. This would look good on your headlight opening where the back of the headlight is open.....just a thought.
[/quote]
I totally considered that, but didn't have any small enough edging material on-hand. That, and the mitered corners would be troublesome... radiusing the corners would make the opening too large. Meh, I'm satisfied.
Looking at your tank in this picture, it has a black bead/seam running around the whatamacallitit perimeter of the tank. This would look good on your headlight opening where the back of the headlight is open.....just a thought.
[/quote]
I totally considered that, but didn't have any small enough edging material on-hand. That, and the mitered corners would be troublesome... radiusing the corners would make the opening too large. Meh, I'm satisfied.
