How is a proper spark supposed to look? (Suz GT500)
- Thread starter drøn
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pbfromippy
New Member
Re: How is a proper spark supposed to look?
Depends upon whether you are talking from a plug or a lead or from both?
In my terms which are not mechanical by any means the arm of the plug should have a spark from the end or just underneath the end of the arm to the centre of the pin underneath it. If it is arcing anywhere else you have a problem with the plug and should replace it.
With a lead, it should arc from the lead to the plug and you should be able to see the spark between the connector on the spark plug and the metallic end of the lead. I would not recommend that you put your hand or other body parts near the end of the lead that is arcing and the spark plug or you will know about it.
Apart from that buy a tester from your local cheap auto shop and check your lead and I think you can check your spark plug as well. I have never bothered because I never owned anything that had expensive spark plugs, so I would toss them and go and get a new one or a set if you run more than one plug. Hope that is of some help.
Depends upon whether you are talking from a plug or a lead or from both?
In my terms which are not mechanical by any means the arm of the plug should have a spark from the end or just underneath the end of the arm to the centre of the pin underneath it. If it is arcing anywhere else you have a problem with the plug and should replace it.
With a lead, it should arc from the lead to the plug and you should be able to see the spark between the connector on the spark plug and the metallic end of the lead. I would not recommend that you put your hand or other body parts near the end of the lead that is arcing and the spark plug or you will know about it.
Apart from that buy a tester from your local cheap auto shop and check your lead and I think you can check your spark plug as well. I have never bothered because I never owned anything that had expensive spark plugs, so I would toss them and go and get a new one or a set if you run more than one plug. Hope that is of some help.
pbfromippy
New Member
Re: How is a proper spark supposed to look?
Other than my earlier suggestion, look it up on You Tube, it should be on there somewhere
Other than my earlier suggestion, look it up on You Tube, it should be on there somewhere
AlphaDogChoppers
Science is true whether you believe in it or not.
Re: How is a proper spark supposed to look?
Spark should be blue, not yellow. A fat spark is a good spark. Thin spark is questionable.
Spark should be blue, not yellow. A fat spark is a good spark. Thin spark is questionable.
sham
Been Around the Block
Re: How is a proper spark supposed to look?
I've been told this looks ok, thought my bike does not run yet.
Ok don't know if that's working for you, its not for me. Here's the link to the page where I have it in my thread.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=28104.30
Hope it helps.
I've been told this looks ok, thought my bike does not run yet.
Ok don't know if that's working for you, its not for me. Here's the link to the page where I have it in my thread.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=28104.30
Hope it helps.
drøn
Active Member
Re: How is a proper spark supposed to look?
sham said:I've been told this looks ok, thought my bike does not run yet.
Thanks a lot Sham. Exactly what I needed. My spark looks pretty much the same.
Ok don't know if that's working for you, its not for me. Here's the link to the page where I have it in my thread.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=28104.30
Hope it helps.
Re: How is a proper spark supposed to look?
Spark with points is typically weak looking in daylight but looks OK at night in teh dark. Try that with a Dyna and it should have a fat blue spark. Try without teh plug cap or plug from the lead to the head. It should easily jump 1/4" with a nice blue spark.
Spark with points is typically weak looking in daylight but looks OK at night in teh dark. Try that with a Dyna and it should have a fat blue spark. Try without teh plug cap or plug from the lead to the head. It should easily jump 1/4" with a nice blue spark.
Re: How is a proper spark supposed to look?
Do you have the original PEI system or a Powerdynamo replacement? The original system is a CDI and should make a fat blue short duration spark that can jump 12mm when the bike is kicked hard.
I'd check the low speed coil.
Do you have the original PEI system or a Powerdynamo replacement? The original system is a CDI and should make a fat blue short duration spark that can jump 12mm when the bike is kicked hard.
I'd check the low speed coil.
drøn
Active Member
Re: How is a proper spark supposed to look?
Thanks a lot teazer
I have checked all coils as per Per Norstedt http://home1.stofanet.dk/optik/suzuki/ignition-gb.htm
ignition leads measure about 2kohms more than they should, thats the only problem I can find. I didn't think that would cause a missing spark.
Guess I'll replace the leads then.
Thanks a lot teazer
I have checked all coils as per Per Norstedt http://home1.stofanet.dk/optik/suzuki/ignition-gb.htm
ignition leads measure about 2kohms more than they should, thats the only problem I can find. I didn't think that would cause a missing spark.
Guess I'll replace the leads then.
drøn
Active Member
I know, Shitty video, but you can just about make out the spark from the ignition lead. I had jo jam both leads between fins to make them spark. I discovered that by pure accident, it never crossed my mind.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/76174475@N08/6961154466/
Spark plug caps measure just short of 1kohm each.
I guess Ignition works fine. Problems must be somewhere else.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/76174475@N08/6961154466/
Spark plug caps measure just short of 1kohm each.
I guess Ignition works fine. Problems must be somewhere else.
Not much wrong with that puppy.
HT (High Tension) spark plug leads are made with a central core of copper wire or carbon fiber filaments. Copper is electrically noisy but has almost zero resistance and that allows ALL the spark energy to reach the plug at the end. Most automotive leads are "suppressed" i.e. they reduce electrical "noise" or EMF which is good, but they have resistance and that absorbs some of the spark energy.
When I have a weak ignition I used copper leads for testing.
In your case that spark looks fine. Time to check carbs again. Old proverb: All ignition problems are in fact carburation issues.
Your English is so good, I often forget that it's not your first language.
HT (High Tension) spark plug leads are made with a central core of copper wire or carbon fiber filaments. Copper is electrically noisy but has almost zero resistance and that allows ALL the spark energy to reach the plug at the end. Most automotive leads are "suppressed" i.e. they reduce electrical "noise" or EMF which is good, but they have resistance and that absorbs some of the spark energy.
When I have a weak ignition I used copper leads for testing.
In your case that spark looks fine. Time to check carbs again. Old proverb: All ignition problems are in fact carburation issues.
Your English is so good, I often forget that it's not your first language.
drøn
Active Member
One thing that just hit me though:
If I jam both leads between head fins I get a good spark from both, but if one is hooked up to the plug and plug cap there's no spark from the other.
Doesn't that suggest a problem in the plug or cap? I have to put those under some further testing.
You're probably right though, I think it's the carbs. It has just been a bit more fun to work with ignition.
And my English is only this good when written so I have the time to get it right, but thanks a lot, That means a lot to me.
If I jam both leads between head fins I get a good spark from both, but if one is hooked up to the plug and plug cap there's no spark from the other.
Doesn't that suggest a problem in the plug or cap? I have to put those under some further testing.
You're probably right though, I think it's the carbs. It has just been a bit more fun to work with ignition.
And my English is only this good when written so I have the time to get it right, but thanks a lot, That means a lot to me.
That bike has one coil, yes?
With a single coil that has two leads, both ends must be grounded or it will not work. If one side is not sparking at the plug, the lead, cap or plug are faulty. Both sides must go to ground. Caps are cheap and so are plugs. Double ended coils are available quite cheaply from many suppliers in Europe, or order a DYNA coil. As long as the primary resistance is close, it will work.
PEI coil is only 1 ohm I think, so you need a coil that is similar if yours is not good.
With a single coil that has two leads, both ends must be grounded or it will not work. If one side is not sparking at the plug, the lead, cap or plug are faulty. Both sides must go to ground. Caps are cheap and so are plugs. Double ended coils are available quite cheaply from many suppliers in Europe, or order a DYNA coil. As long as the primary resistance is close, it will work.
PEI coil is only 1 ohm I think, so you need a coil that is similar if yours is not good.
drøn
Active Member
It just ran!
Would you believe it? On my birthday. Ha.
I went to check up on the plugs and caps and I noticed that when I kicked it, not only where there a spark, but it startet to run for a few revs once in a while. I hooked up the plugs and kicked it over and it ran. No choke! It even idled for a few seconds until I pulled the key.
Would you believe it? On my birthday. Ha.
I went to check up on the plugs and caps and I noticed that when I kicked it, not only where there a spark, but it startet to run for a few revs once in a while. I hooked up the plugs and kicked it over and it ran. No choke! It even idled for a few seconds until I pulled the key.
