How strong is your front drum?

[jbeebe]

So i'm still fiddling around with my kz440 front drum trying to get it adjusted properly and i'm wondering how strong it's supposed to be.

Going ~25, applying the front brake only as hard as possible results in a somewhat quick, but not immediate stop.

So how strong would you say your front drum is?

For some reason I just can't seem to get it adjusted right. I tried spinning the wheel and adjusting until I feel it rubbing, and also tried zip-tie'ing the lever fully and tightening the brake as much as possible, but it still isn't performing well enough.

 

[ToastyTofu]

.. if you're use to disc brake front ends, then yeah, drum brakes suck a mean one. seriously, it's probably just your imagination. drum brakes really suck.

 

[mydlyfkryzis]

If it is a DLS type, the adjustment needs to be done so that both shoes contact the drum at the same time. Most front brakes are DLS (Double Leading Shoe)

If the drums are good, the shoes ground to the right radius, and adjusted well, you should be able to lock the front wheel.

There is a procedure for adjusting them around somewhere, but I have a disk brake, so don't dwell on those subjects much.

My front disk would not lock up the front brake in the past either though. Since I replaced the hydraulic hoses with the stainless braided, and rebuilt the MC, and caliper, the brakes now are fantastic, better then when the bike was new.

Open the Brakes and look at the scuffed area of the shoes. If the whole surface of the shoe is not scuffed , then the radius of the shoe does not match the drum, and that would cause reduced braking.

 

[Scruffy]

Unknown source SLS front on my CL 250 sucked. Swapped it for a Titan 500 2 stroke sourced TLS. Holy shit... it will stop. Tried that same Titan front wheel on my 650 Savage. Out stopped the factory single puck disc brake until the cheap (Emgo yellow box) brake shoes delaminated... Order some good brake shoes and try again. If that doesn't help, track down a TLS front wheel off a large street 2 stroke.

My Honda came stock TLS front, SLS rear, is now TLS on both ends. Last time I rode it I could stop it faster than I could my front disc rear drum Suzukis.

 

[Tim]

I'm lucky enough to have a Suzuki 4LS front drum on my xs cafe and haven't pissed myself yet, including during some very spirited rides in Alabama chasing a Buell and 2012 Triumph.

Before you toss in the towel freshen up the drum, get new shoes and a new cable that is properly lubed.

 

[jbeebe]

The pads are new and the inside of the drum looks good, but when putting it back together I think i'm just not getting the whole "both shoes contacting at the same time" thing. I've tried playing with the adjustment for ~1.5hrs total now and still can't get it to where I feel comfortable. Any adjusting tips or tricks?

 

[zap2504]

KZ440 Clymer manual describes synchronizing the two front drum shoes so each brake cam lever forms a 90-degree angle to the brake rod when brake is fully applied. If either cam lever exceeds about 100-degrees, loosten the locknut on the upper brake rod and backout the adjuster rod 1 turn to loosten the rear shoe. Spin the front wheel and turn the cable adjuster until the shoe begins to drag. Spin wheel again and adjust brake rod until rear shoe drag becomes noticeable. Tighten brake rod locknut. Adjust free-play at cable adjuster nut.