How to fix gas not flowing to carbs,& stuck ignition. Still won't start HELP

[strangedaze39]

Hey guys, very happy to have registered here. Seems like a great site.

This last monday I bought a honda cb350 four cylinder (1971)

Here what I have going on, I changed the gas because the old stuff was a couple years old. Anyways the tank is clean, and so is the bike. So I'm pretty sure it's not debris. I think it is an air lock in the fuel line, or something small. Since it didn't have this problem before I changed the darn gas.

How do I get this gas flowing it's driving me nuts?

Last question, as I tried to start it today I believe I got the elect. ignition stuck on, how do I take care of this?

Before I could turn the key to middle and it would be just lights on, now it is stuck on elect. ignition.

Thanks for reading, and I would really appreciate any kind of help I can get on these topics. I don't know much about bikes, but I'm fairly handy.

-SD

 

[jason teamshralp]

Re: Gas not flowing to carbs, ignition stuck.

i have the same fuel problem with my '78 cb550k im trying to tune the carbs, because the bike will only take fuel if the petcock is switched to res.

as far as the ignition is the button stuck?

 

[strangedaze39]

Re: Gas not flowing to carbs, ignition stuck.

Hey thanks for reply ;D I appreciate it.

I think the buttons stuck or I was pushing to hard on it, and caused it to go bad (short).

I'm almost positive the thing will get gas if I can just get the air out. But I'm not sure, please let me know if you figure something out.

Thanks again for reply, I'll keep you updated. And good luck with yours.

-SD

 

[strangedaze39]

Re: Gas not flowing to carbs, ignition stuck.

Update!

Fixed the ignition by putting a new wire in.

Fixed the air lock by pulling the fuel filter out at the end closer to tank, and holding the tube in the air, while tapping this the air all came to the top. After that I slightly opened the petcock and let it drip freely (through the air use a rag to catch any extras) into the fuel filter, and down the tube. After it filled to the top, just about to overflow, I threw the tube back on and wallah, not a bit of air in it, and when I take the carb screw it, it streams out.

Ok, now the bad news. This thing STILL won't run, I'm getting spark, gas, and compression. What's going on here? Any tricks to starting these pups up?

Thanks for reading,

SD

 

[Cafe_to_go]

I was going to suggest to check the points, so I found this from Bill Silver:

"You can check the voltage to the points by blocking them open with a little piece of paper. If you have close to battery voltage at the point wires, then you probably just have a case of corroded points. Use a fine grade of emery cloth or small smooth file to clean the faces of the contacts, then clean off the grit and debris with contact cleaner and a small clean lint-free cloth.
If you attach a 12v light to the point wire leads, you should see the light go on and off when the points open and close.
Once you get to this stage, then you should be getting spark at the plugs (clean plugs). Carefully, lubricate the point cam and then turn the motor over until each point set is at maximum gap. Check the gap and adjust until it is about .012-.014", then move the point plate around until the left points just open when the LF marks are aligned with the pointer on the stator. Then adjust the points on the right side until you get the same result with the F mark.
If you want to be really accurate, take the point plate off first, check the mechanical advance function and clean, lubricate as necessary. Be sure to mark the point cam location on the advancer unit as it can be installed 180 degrees off and you won't get spark when you need it.

You should be able to start the bike, if the carbs are cleaned out properly. With the point cover off, watch the points as they open and close.... if you see HEAVY arcing across one set, then the condenser lead for that set of points is either disconnected, loose or the condenser is bad. Condensers come ganged together, so you generally have to buy the two-pack. You could just get a single one and swap the leads to it, as long as the condenser body is grounded properly.

The other possibility is that the KILL switch contacts are corroded and you will have to either wire around the kill switch or clean the switch contacts inside.

There is only one fuse, so it is either working or not... I think you will find the problem as described above.."

 

[strangedaze39]

Hey Cafe_to_Go, thank you very much!! ;D I It's getting late tonight but I will definitely do this tomorrow.

Any other help would be really awesome, I can't wait to get this thing running

Thanks for the help.

-SD

 

[Cafe_to_go]

Hey Cafe_to_Go, thank you very much!! ;D I It's getting late tonight but I will definitely do this tomorrow.

Any other help would be really awesome, I can't wait to get this thing running

Thanks for the help.

-SD

Your welcomed, I had the same problem when I first go my CB350 twin, I was going crazy looking for coils, I was always getting outbid on ebay and I was giving up on my bike. My dad knew a motor cycle mechanic so he brought him over, he had my bike running in less then 5 minutes, a bike that was last used in 73 or so. I had already rebuilt the carbs, changed oil, cleaned the gas tank and put in a new battery. He just adjusted the original points using a piece of foil paper from his cigarette box, and boom it started.

 

[strangedaze39]

Hey Cafe,

Good story, sounds like you have a cool dad. You said you rebuilt the carbs. How hard was that for you to do? I think I should do the same, get some of the gunk out if there is any. I do know the tank and lines are really clean, but the carbs could still be pretty nasty. How did yours look when you opened um up?

Thanks for your help I really appreciate it.
SD

Oh BTW any good manuals on getting to the contact points?