How to mount seat pan???

[olsen15]

I have a 1979 kz650 that i have been wrenching on for a while and i do not know how to fit my new seat pan... While minimizing the ammount of damage to the frame someone please help me!!!

 

[SONICJK]

Put duct tape on the frame and then superglue the seat to that.
Be careful not to get it on your fingers it's nasty shit. And wear a respirator. Do this outside.

 

[jungalist]

Put duct tape on the frame and then superglue the seat to that.
Be careful not to get it on your fingers it's nasty shit. And wear a respirator. Do this outside.

lol, ok so here's the deal,

best thing you can do is use the stock seat pan, just so you can use the stock mounting points and bold your seat to that.

if you want to commit weld some brackets onto the frame and mount your cafe seat to that. search around a bit to see how others did it.

 

[jungalist]

best thing you can do is use the stock seat pan, just so you can use the stock mounting points and bold your seat to that.

you'll probably need to modify the seat pan because it wil be too high to get the new seat mounted proper

 

[HerrDeacon]

Based on the first picture, the rear frame vertical hoop is preventing the seat from sitting down. If you still want to use that seat that bar will have to be removed. No issue with removing it as long as you figure out another way of bracing the rear end. Most people weld on a hoop. Don't just cut is off and not replace it with something as it helps to keep the rear of the bike braced.

 

[xb33bsa]

Based on the first picture, the rear frame vertical hoop is preventing the seat from sitting down. If you still want to use that seat that bar will have to be removed. No issue with removing it as long as you figure out another way of bracing the rear end. Most people weld on a hoop. Don't just cut is off and not replace it with something as it helps to keep the rear of the bike braced.

no
the ONLY reason that hoop is up over the rear frame is to support the seat and a potential designed load of close to 400lbs rider +passenger,it can be removed safely when running a solo seat
just be sure and leave clearance for the tire at full bump

 

[jungalist]

indeed, if you realy want to mount the seat proper and want it to sit nicely on the frame you will have to commit to it and take a grinder to the frame...

 

[Titan performance]

We do a lot of this stuff, and you must get the seat unit to sit in the correct place, as you will never be happy with it mounted incorrectly, ie as it is in the picture. It is important to get the lines right....the bottom edge of the seat should be in line with, or close to that of the tank, or it will look cobbled together. If that means cutting the frame....then cut it. Neatly remove the not needed bracket with a cutting disk, and if needed, it can always be welded back on again. Fibre glass seat units are generally not strong enough to carry a rider's weight with supports at either end, it will likely need some connection to the frame in the middle too, or it will flex, and crack your paint. A piece of ply can be bonded into the bottom of the seat to strengthen it, cut it to shape, and use a strong bond to secure it. Get some mild steel strapping, about 2mm X 50mm and bend some brackets, which can also be bonded in to align with holes in the frame.
You can use race style self adhesive seat foam, or make an aluminium seat pan and attach proper upholstery to that.....which is then easy to attach to your seat unit.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

As said, although I really like the shape of that seat... it isn't a correct fit for your Kaw.
If you don't want to cut the frame, you need a different seat. It should line up better in the front if your tank is mounted in the pic and a taller bum stop to clear the frame crossmember in the rear.

 

[o1marc]

Contrary to some beliefs the bridge does add structural support to the rear of the frame limiting upper shock mount movement under load. You can either cut a hole in the bottom of the seat to lower it over the bridge or remove the shock springs and lift the wheel to full compression and see how much clearance is left between the tire and the bridge. You need at least 3/4" of clearance. if there is more you can cut the tails off the bridge and reweld it back on to give the needed clearance on the seat. That's what I did on my cb400f.

 

[xb33bsa]

any structure back of the shocks,the typical formed sheet metal loop that supports the seat and fender/tailight has nothing to do with shock movement loads ,to think otherwise shows ignorance of structural design
it is simply there to support the max gross load rating with a passenger, the entire rear frame is over-engineered to handle that extra load (up to 350-400lbs)slinging around off the back
it can be eliminated safely using a solo rider seat design
lack of tire clearance at full bump is the important detail mistake that many make

 

[VonYinzer]

Sorry... Couldn't resist.

 

[xb33bsa]

made me laf
i am pretty sure this junk metisse frame will fail
deer lord it has nothing behind the shocks
it is hilarious how myths get perpetuated on the internets ;D

and a page full of some eye candy http://www.terryweedy.com/metisse.html

 

[o1marc]

That frame has a brace slightly in front of the shock mounts that does the same thing. Most of the Jap bikes have a much longer spread to the next triangulation and that is why the stamped brace is just not a flat strap like on that Metisse, but whatever.