I need help bad. headlight keeps blowing out.

15,000µF is the bare minimum. I'd go for at least 35,000µF if you can get it. A battery would be even better though.

But regardless, a regulator test still needs to be done.
 
Sonreir said:
15,000µF is the bare minimum. I'd go for at least 35,000µF if you can get it. A battery would be even better though.

But regardless, a regulator test still needs to be done.
Click to expand...

The more the merrier :D
but youre getting into the same size territory as a battery at that point
 
Size, yeah, but weight is still way down from the old lead lumps.

This one I'm running is 22,000µF:
58790_10151596229475159_987035453_n.jpg
 
Not in that size. Check eBay or something. Also... make sure the voltage rating is above 20V. Anything above 20V is fine.
 
Sonreir said:
Size, yeah, but weight is still way down from the old lead lumps.

This one I'm running is 22,000µF:
58790_10151596229475159_987035453_n.jpg
Click to expand...

Sonreir- Not trying to Hijack the thread, but why the double regulators and separate rectifier...those regulators have a rectifier built in.....They handle at least 10 amps each, and the stock alternator is 9 amps or so....Did you do something special with the alternator?
 
Not sure yet. Still have other things I need to mess with before I get it up and running.
 
Went and bought a brand new battery today and it still was sending over 15v to the headlight and increased with the revs.
 
Honda voltage regulator spec is 15v +\- 0.5 volt. So 15.5 volt is in spec.

If you are going over 15.6 volt at any time, the regulator is burnt out. The regulator on your model is a voltage limiter only. It limits voltage to 15.5 max. So if it burns out, there is no limit other than load.


Sent from planet Earth using mysterious electronic devices and Tapatalk
 
Well going to buy a regulator today since that battery didnt fix it. So really did i even need to buy a battery and put it on like some people on here are telling me i should have a battery to smooth out the volts or were they wrong? I have a capacitor that will work but now since someone said i needed a battery on the bike ive went and bought it so i guess ill run that. Id rather not be shooting in the dark buying all these peices from your advice and it still not fixing it.
 
Sonreir said:
15,000µF is the bare minimum. I'd go for at least 35,000µF if you can get it. A battery would be even better though.

But regardless, a regulator test still needs to be done.
Click to expand...
 
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