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Yes as it says. The whole idle adjustment mechanism is missing completely... I finally got everything on the bike dialed in and now it idles at 4k rpm.. went to adjust idle and noticed that the screws werent doing much. so then i looked up some pics and noticed there is not an idle screw on mine at all. can someone please post a pic of how this thing mounts up on the inside? im wondering if i can use something else until i find and buy a new one but i dont even have the first clue how it mounts up
Its a 75 cb 360... i finally got it running and i never could figure why it had less power than an xr 100 and then i realized only one cylinder was firing. well after i got that sorted out i then had the problem of it idling at 4k rpm. decided to adjust screws and nothing happened. then i took a look in the owners manual and saw that im missing the whole idle screw mechanism. so now i dont know how it mounts for when my new one arrives. i was also debating on using just a regular bolt or screw if possible for the time being.
The problem isn't your idle screw (unless you mean something else when you're saying "idle screw"). If the idle screw were missing then your bike wouldn't run at all because the butterfly valves would be fully closed.
Gonna need a pic of what's going on before we can help.
The problem isn't your idle screw (unless you mean something else when you're saying "idle screw"). The the idle screw were missing then your bike wouldn't run at all because the butterfly valves would be fully closed.
Gonna need a pic of what's going on before we can help.
Technically he could have the throttle cables tight enough so that it would hold them open too far and cause this problem too. Keegor, you really should get some pics of what you are talking about, since there are several different meanings of "idle screw" they can also be known as the "idle adjustment screw" but many people call the Mixture screws idle screws as well, or pilot screws, or pilot circuit screws...you see my point. Pics show exactly what "screw" you are speaking of.
uh. there is no idle screw or cable and the bike idles at 4k rpm because of it.. prior to this the bike was only running on one cyl and some how had a low sooth normal sounding idle for one cyl. once i realized it was only one i fixed that issue to discover the new issue of no adjustment screw mechanism. i need pics of the inside section between the 2 carbs so i can see how it mounts for when my new one arrives. if i put the choke on around 75% it idls close to normal but when i give it gas it gags and dies. ill take pics some other time because they are pretty much irrelevent to what im asking for.
hoosier daddy, that pic does a good job at showing the part i need ... i am missing the complete number 10 in the illustration. if i can find a pic of what it mounts to and how it mounts ill be set.. unlike my idle ha!
uh. there is no idle screw or cable and the bike idles at 4k rpm because of it.. prior to this the bike was only running on one cyl and some how had a low sooth normal sounding idle for one cyl. once i realized it was only one i fixed that issue to discover the new issue of no adjustment screw mechanism. i need pics of the inside section between the 2 carbs so i can see how it mounts for when my new one arrives. if i put the choke on around 75% it idls close to normal but when i give it gas it gags and dies. ill take pics some other time because they are pretty much irrelevent to what im asking for.
hoosier daddy, that pic does a good job at showing the part i need ... i am missing the complete number 10 in the illustration. if i can find a pic of what it mounts to and how it mounts ill be set.. unlike my idle ha!
Ok, so now we know that you are in fact talking about the actual idle adjustment mechanism. The knob that you turn is held in place by the bracket right next to it in the picture. That bracket it bolted to outside corner of the float bowl. So it holds that corner of the float bowl down, as well as holding the knob adjustment. The cable the knob is attached to goes up and screws into the "LEFT" carb body (there is a threaded hole on a part of the carb that juts out, you can't miss it) Remember that LEFT is when sitting on the bike, or Cylinder#1 in this case. Slide the spring on before threading it into the carb body spot and it will do it's job as it should. Hope that helps.
It does help. my carb bowl has the screw in it with out the bracket so it looks like its not supposed to be there at all and this is why i had missed it for so long. that part will be easy to mount but the inside part that you dont see in many pics is what i was concerned with. you painted a pretty good pic for me there sir and i appreciate the help a lot. id still like to see a pic of the inside mounting just so i can understand how it adjusts both carbs. or does it just adjust one side? if so then ill have to order 2 i suppose. is there one for each side? or just one on the left side that works both carbs? i think putting it on shouldnt be too hard at all. im assuming it can only mount one way.
The idle screw sets the throttle stop so that it's open just a little bit. So yeah, the idle screw controls how fast your idle is, not how slow it is (if that makes sense). So while the missing idle screw will eventually be a problem, it's not the cause of your high idle.
AHHAAAAA!!!!! now i see how it works completely!! good to see thanks! if my peice i ordered doesnt get here soon im gonna prob have to just stick a bolt in it for now
AHHAAAAA!!!!! now i see how it works completely!! good to see thanks! if my peice i ordered doesnt get here soon im gonna prob have to just stick a bolt in it for now
Keegor, don't forget what Sonreir said. Your bike is HIGH idling for another reason. This bolt keeps it from dying, which would be "low" idling in retrospect. You have vacuum problems, lean problems, WAYYY out of sync problems, or simply too tight on the throttle cable, which is holding your carb throttle plates open. This part will not fix any of that. Good luck on getting your bike running well!
new idle screw mechanism and problem solved!!! where the old one had broken off or seized in the screw hole it was broken off down into the threads about half way. it still had a small nub sticking out of the end which was against the leaver as supposed to. but it was adjusted way too high. i took the carbs off and grabbed that sucker with some channel locks and wiggled and screwed it free, cleaned it up greased the new one and installed it. bike started one kick but idled at 3k this time so i backed it off to around 1k for now till i get everything else how it needs to be. such an easy fix too, i love the ones that go smoothly and cheaply.
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