Installing tapered head bearings
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SaltCityCafe
Been Around the Block
Just about to do this myself so some good info here 
1sttimer
Over 1,000 Posts
Jewbacca said:
Is there a torque rating on this? I reinstalled my ball bearings and not tapered rollers and I'm wondering what Honda did at the factory to make sure that top spanner was right enough. I've noticed the grinding feeling when you over tighten, but if it's just hand tight won't it vibrate loose?
What danger am I in if that spanner isn't torqued down properly?
What I did was hand tighten and twist the bars. I kept tightening until I felt the balls start to bind and then backed off. Is this the right way to do it?
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thats about it for the balls type1sttimer said:
just try to have them smooth, but tight, no slop
if you're ball bearings feel notchy it is most likely they are worn with little detents worn-in for the balls hence the notchy feeling... time to replace if you want the best feel
overtightening tapered bearings only causes extra drag you cannot damage them by overtightening
When you have it all assembled you want to torque the bearings down to about 30 ft/lb, then turn the handlebars from side to side about 6 times, then loosen the top nut until the bars just gently flop to the steering stops. This ensures the bearings are seated properly and the grease is distributed over all the bearings and races before they are under operating loads.
And yes - they are called races, not cups or cones.
And yes - they are called races, not cups or cones.
sharperdill
Been Around the Block
Taken from the wrist twisters Forum.
This is from a DRZ400 manual. Number 6 explains it well for setting preload of the bearings using the lower nut, under the triple tree. When the upper nut on the triple tree is tightened the preload on the bearing increases, because the slack in the threads of the bottom nut is taken up using the top nut.
torque values will differ depending on the diameter of the threads. 26 ft ibs (as stated by mark13018) sounds about right for step 6
1. Make sure the upper and lower bearing race, are seated in the frame.
2.Make sure the bearings and races are lubricated with waterproof grease.
3.Guide the steering stem through the bottom of the frame.
4.Install the upper bearing into its race.
5.Install and finger-tighten the adjuster nut.
6.Seat the bearings as follows:
a.Tighten the adjuster nut with a pin soanner wrench (Figure 21) to seat the beanngs. Tighten the nut to 45 Nm (33 ft.-lb.).
b.Turn the steering stem from lock to lock a minimum of five times to seat the bearings
c.Loosen the adjuster nut 1/4 -1/2 turn and check for horizontal and vertical play. Adjust the nut until play is eliminated in both directions. If properly adjusted. the steering stem should pivot to the lock positions under its own weight, after an initial assist.
7.Install the upper fork bridge. washer and stem nut. Finger-tighten the nut. It will be tightened after the fork legs are installed.
8.Install the odometer or gauge cluster.
9.On S and SM models, connect the electrical connectors leading to the gauge cluster.
10.Install the fork legs as described in this chaptcr. When installing the legs, tighten only the upper bridge pinch bolts (A, Figure 22). The lower bridge pinch bolts (8, Figure 22) must remain loose because the bridge moves slightly when the stem nut is tightcned.
11. Tightcn the steering,tem nut to 90Nm (66 ft·lb.).
12.Tighten the lower bridge pinch bolts (B. Figure 22) just enough to grip the fork legs.
13.Check hearing play again as follows:
f.Tighten the stem nut to 90 Nm (66 ft.-lb.).
g.Tighten the lower bridge pinch bolts.
h.Recheck bearing play. Adjust if necessary.
14.Tighten the lower bridge pinch bolts to 32 Nm (24 ft-Ib.)
15.Install the handlebar as described in this chapter.
16. Install the front fender.
17. Install the front wheel (Chapter Eleven)."
This is from a DRZ400 manual. Number 6 explains it well for setting preload of the bearings using the lower nut, under the triple tree. When the upper nut on the triple tree is tightened the preload on the bearing increases, because the slack in the threads of the bottom nut is taken up using the top nut.
torque values will differ depending on the diameter of the threads. 26 ft ibs (as stated by mark13018) sounds about right for step 6
1. Make sure the upper and lower bearing race, are seated in the frame.
2.Make sure the bearings and races are lubricated with waterproof grease.
3.Guide the steering stem through the bottom of the frame.
4.Install the upper bearing into its race.
5.Install and finger-tighten the adjuster nut.
6.Seat the bearings as follows:
a.Tighten the adjuster nut with a pin soanner wrench (Figure 21) to seat the beanngs. Tighten the nut to 45 Nm (33 ft.-lb.).
b.Turn the steering stem from lock to lock a minimum of five times to seat the bearings
c.Loosen the adjuster nut 1/4 -1/2 turn and check for horizontal and vertical play. Adjust the nut until play is eliminated in both directions. If properly adjusted. the steering stem should pivot to the lock positions under its own weight, after an initial assist.
7.Install the upper fork bridge. washer and stem nut. Finger-tighten the nut. It will be tightened after the fork legs are installed.
8.Install the odometer or gauge cluster.
9.On S and SM models, connect the electrical connectors leading to the gauge cluster.
10.Install the fork legs as described in this chaptcr. When installing the legs, tighten only the upper bridge pinch bolts (A, Figure 22). The lower bridge pinch bolts (8, Figure 22) must remain loose because the bridge moves slightly when the stem nut is tightcned.
11. Tightcn the steering,tem nut to 90Nm (66 ft·lb.).
12.Tighten the lower bridge pinch bolts (B. Figure 22) just enough to grip the fork legs.
13.Check hearing play again as follows:
f.Tighten the stem nut to 90 Nm (66 ft.-lb.).
g.Tighten the lower bridge pinch bolts.
h.Recheck bearing play. Adjust if necessary.
14.Tighten the lower bridge pinch bolts to 32 Nm (24 ft-Ib.)
15.Install the handlebar as described in this chapter.
16. Install the front fender.
17. Install the front wheel (Chapter Eleven)."
Stem nut to 66 foot pounds!! That seems just a tad on the high side.
Just to get this clear, the tun under the top triple clamp is the one that adjusts the end play and clamping pressure. Get that right and then tighten the top nut (above the top triple clamp) to bring the top triple down snuggly on top of the adjusting ring nut.
Just to get this clear, the tun under the top triple clamp is the one that adjusts the end play and clamping pressure. Get that right and then tighten the top nut (above the top triple clamp) to bring the top triple down snuggly on top of the adjusting ring nut.
1sttimer
Over 1,000 Posts
teazer said:
Agreed, in the manual it says that top nut should be indeed torqued to the 60 ft-lb range. I think if I did that I couldn't turn the bars it would be so tight!
I did what you said here when I reinstalled my ball bearings and got everything nice and smooth when I installed the retaining threaded screw. Then I put the top tree on, and torqued the nut on top of the tree not thinking it would do anything, but it tightened on the bearings just as well. As it sits, my top nut is a little past hand tight. Anything more grinds the races.
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sharperdill
Been Around the Block
I give up. No one can read and follow instructions before they post.
1sttimer
Over 1,000 Posts
sharperdill said:
I'm not sure why you thought your post would end the conversation. Good info certainly, but this still has been discussed a few times over the past weeks. It's obviously a topic of misunderstanding.
I'm not trying to get to the bottom of how to achieve the torque spec in the manual for my bike or if that's needed at all.
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this effect varies depending how loose the thread fit is in the adjusting nut.....
tightening the top nut can take up the slack in the threads out of the adjusting nut causing more preload on the bearings if so you will need to back off the adjusting nut a smidge
a little trial and error will get it right
tightening the top nut can take up the slack in the threads out of the adjusting nut causing more preload on the bearings if so you will need to back off the adjusting nut a smidge
a little trial and error will get it right
xb33bsa said:this effect varies depending how loose the thread fit is in the adjusting nut.....
tightening the top nut can take up the slack in the threads out of the adjusting nut causing more preload on the bearings if so you will need to back off the adjusting nut a smidge
a little trial and error will get it right
Yep - that's why the end result is how the bars should gently flop to the steering stops, not an actual torque setting for the bearings.
