is it worth upgrading rear shocks

[Umusername]

I ride a 1982 Honda Nighthawk that is as cafe racer as a Nighthawk can be without being a professional or filthy rich. I am toying with the idea of going with some of the progressive shocks from Dime City Cycles in the same length as original (unless you guys have a better recommendation). I have the stock ones all the way tight and still get substantial sag when all 130lbs. of me sits on it. Over all it is fine and rides mmmmkaay (less fun in construction zones). I already did the front end with a set of progressive springs in the forks and that was a huge improvement. Any thoughts on the rear as well as the best way to do it right?

 

[hurley209]

suspension should be one of the first things you adjust or take care of when you get a bike, especially if you plan on doing anything other than straight line riding...

 

[VonYinzer]

+1.

Upgrade them asap. Stock Honda rear suspension SUCKED on most bikes.

 

[Umusername]

That so far has been my finding. Any recommendations for size, brand, or anything else?

 

[VonYinzer]

Hagons are a good bang for the buck shock. Not cheap but not Ohlins money either. You can find some good used shocks for a decent price every so often. Buy the best you can afford. Just stick with the stock length for now. No need to start messing around with suspension geometry.

 

[Rich Ard]

I can't tell you how happy it makes me to hear that you have put solid front springs in before buying a three-hundred-dollar seat.

Welcome.

 

[Scruffy]

I can't tell you how happy it makes me to hear that you have put solid front springs in before buying a three-hundred-dollar seat.

Welcome.

I don't know man, if he insists on doing things in the correct order, is he going to stick around very long... A new member that doesn't put aesthetics above all other (more important) concerns... that's kinda spooky...

In all seriousness, Hagon, Progressive, Ceriani, whatever you can afford is a dramatic upgrade. I have a set of late 60s or early 70s Ceriani shocks (and fork for that matter) on a beat to death Honda 250 from 1963. They outlasted the engine (and its late 70s rebuild), whoever installed them way back when got a smoking great "bang for the buck".

And don't be knocking your bike, plenty of older CM/CB 400s and 450s are still alive and kicking in spite of the factory's lack of interest in proper assembly. You're making a great start on it, get used to it in its current incarnation, when you get bored, overhaul it to suit. I've been flogging the same cut rate Suzuki (Savage) for 15 years, every couple years I get bored and rebuild it into something else.

If it fits and you like it, spend your money on function, form will follow when it's the correct time.

 

[xb33bsa]

don't let these guys fool you with common sense and experience

 

[Rich Ard]

While we're on the subject, do you fellas have any suggestions for reading up on suspension tuning? I have considered doing a track day as much for having someone help me play with settings as to get a chance to learn to run a little faster.

 

[cyclefreak]

Here is another glad to see attention given to the rear suspension. Front end upgrades are common but is only half of the job.
Rich Ard check this out.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1893618455/ref=pd_aw_sim_b_2?pi=SL500_SY115

 

[Rich Ard]

thanks man!

 

[Umusername]

Well I may not have too many posts but have lurked and used existing threads for a lot of information (what I believe to be a somewhat more correct forum method) almost for a year. I will be around this site for a long time. $300 on a seat is not at all worth it to me. If I am going to spend money I am going to put it into something useful like good rubber or suspension. The bike runs strong I ride it everyday and it has all the power I need as I can catch the ton on it (only once at 2 am not the greatest idea I know keep it on the track) But now that the power house is strong I want to get it to handle well. I moved the clip ons below the top triple just the other day and I was amazed at how much even that helped. I have a guy at my local shop keeping an eye out for a larger rear wheel that will fit the axle... If any of you know the right donor I would appreciate the reference 17mm axle and preferably a 18 inch (17 is still better than what I have 16 rear 19 front is not the best cornering combo) non spoked rim with a drum brake (I want to keep it simple). I may end up having to move to spoked if I cannot find anything but then I will need to do the front as well.

 

[Umusername]

I have started shopping again for new rear shocks and did find one interesting link to:
http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/chassis/suspension_parts/rear_shocks.html
on the product review part of DTT but am hesitant still as I am sure you all would be. After shopping on both the progressive website and dime city cycles, I did find that it is $15 cheaper for the same product from dime city... I guess now all I have to do is make it to 100 posts. Any and all recommendations still appreciated.

 

[AgentX]

For my money, I'd definitely look at Hagons rather than anything from generic-cheap-stuff-from-China-supplier Emgo.

Mufflers, headlight ears/buckets, and even switchgear? Sure.

Something that needs to be a precision, complex, durable part? Nah, especially when you figure in service. Hagon's a great outfit and will set you up with shocks to fit your need at a good price, around $200 I think. And they can make adjustments for you if something's not right.

http://www.hagonshocksusa.com/HagShocks.htm


(Edit to add: besides your progressive springs up front, there is the option to use cartridge valve emulators in your fork, which is a huge improvement as well. Racetech is the US-made option, and YSS or mikesxs.com have clones thereof. I have the YSS, and they're an amazing difference up front. Unfortunately, if you add emulators, you might need slightly shorter fork springs than the ones you've invested in, especially if you're light and don't want excessive pre-load. I just cut and ground my stock spring and it works well.)

 

[AgentX]

solid front springs

That had me confused for a moment...

"Hi, welcome to Oxymoron Suspension Tuning! Can we help you fit some of our famous No-Flow Dampers, or our Solid Front Springs? Or perhaps our Fork Eliminator module?"

 

[xb33bsa]

my guess is the hagons and all of the gas bag non-rebuildabls are made in the same country if not same factory
if you actually are gonna spend serious saddle time then git rebuidale shocks
works performance 100% servicable/tunable shocks would be my choice if buying new
i run a set of vintage fox shocks(steel gassers, emulsions) myself and gold valves up front and i am still looking/hoping to upgrade even more,i picked up a set of fox remote resses and some fox piggy-backs and may try them after i go thru them and freshen them up

suspension/brakes/tires/comfort and controls are what makes the cycle if you ACTUALLY RIDE

 

[Umusername]

So the forum is mostly saying Hagon, Why Hagon over Progressive? The progressive 12 series would run me $265, and the Hagon M series (so it has the clevis bottom) would run me $249. At a $15 difference I want to be sure I am making the better of the two choices as far as performance goes as they cost virtually the same.

 

[Tim]

One advantage of Hagons is the support you will likely find from the seller. Can't recall which but if you look online you'll find a main seller who will spring the shocks specifically to your weight and they often offer a couple of spring changes if you find you need to.

 

[Umusername]

That is actually really good to know because as you probably guessed I don't know a thing about doing that myself.

 

[AgentX]

So the forum is mostly saying Hagon, Why Hagon over Progressive?

Because Hagon is the cheapest shock that'll be a good performance upgrade, and budget seemed a primary consideration. If you want to spend more, there are lots of options.

I think you can get the baseline Hagon street shocks ($200) with a clevis or an eyelet on whichever end you need. The "M" series is shown with a clevis bottom in one photo, but I think that's just a coincidence.