Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
So I picked up a 1974 cb400f last week (still have to make a intro thread...) and I got it as is not running of coarse but I didnt mind because I got a super good deal on it....anyways.
Pulled the carbs out and pulled the bowls out and and youcan tell its been sitting a while. So when I start to pull everything out for a proper cleaning, I go to pull the pin for the float out and it litteraly just broke SH*T !
So what I was wondering, whats the easiest way to fix this ? Also #1 and #4 pins were thiner, floats went up and down alot easier than #3 and #4 floats which take more effort and the pins seem more press fit.
Is that normal or did someone possibly change them out ?
any ways thanks for your help, id like to get this bad boy up and going by summer.
They usually slide right out. Depends on the carb. Some retain the pin by the shape of the float bowl enclosing the ends of the pin. Some have a little knurl on one end of the pin that fits snugly into one of the posts, so the pin will slide out one way, but not the other.
I did that on a Mikuni VM carb once. Replaced the carb body.
It's a shame they don't cast the float pin holders into the bowl - would be a lot easier to replace a bowl than the carb body itself and they could have easily made it work.
Piuns are usually fairly tight. Not rattling loose but easy to press out of the posts. Floats should move easily on the pins. No play as such but they should rotate with almost zero effort.
Might also want to look into a product called "Alumiweld"(sp?). Build the post up with that and drill a hole. Like the JB Weld suggestion it's cheap and you really have nothing to lose.
You could find a plastic straw (like off a can of WD40) slightly larger than the diameter of your pin, and use that as the "core" of your JBWeld or Alumiweld fix. Be careful with the JBWeld, however - it has to dry for a long time before it is fuel resistant. I learned this the hard way replacing wiring that went through an epoxy plug to an in-tank fuel pump
+1 on the Alumiweld, works great, basically is a zinc rod that melts at propane torch heat level. I've used it many times for fixing broken or cracked cases, I used it once to build up a post that held a spring in an ATV engine. I have some right now that I intend to fix a cracked sprocket cover. Takes a little getting used to but it works. And its gas and oil proof, and it won't stick to steel very well or at all so you can use steel rod or a nail to make a hole mold.
That upper "pin " appears to be a bent paper clip. That won't work very well. try your local model shop for a length of piano wire as it's called. They sell short lengths of spring steel wire and I'm sure one of the stock sizes will be pretty close. Do not use abrasive blast of any sort on the carb bodies. Sometmes soda works but they are made of a zinc based matrix which pits when it's blasted.
WD40 and scothbrite scourer are usually enough to get a reasonable surface finish on the outside.
What is that horrible looking part? I it a pilot jet? If so I would replace all 4.
Anyone know the # is for the main jet ? Is it 75# ?
I called and emailed DCC but no reply yet and im about to place an order along with other itmes. They are Keihn CV style jets, as seen in the pic above post.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
