Is this tank beyond saving?
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dcmspikes
Over 1,000 Posts
i have two tanks that look really bad. after reading this post: http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=4564.0 i decided to give it a try. instead of the CLR remover i went for the straight Rust Remover by ZEP. ill take some pictures later. i am on my second cleansing now. it looks so much better. the product leaves some nice looking bare metal, but i can only see a small part of the inside of the tank. if it doesnt work you are only wasting $10 and some time.
kneedragger
Been Around the Block
First off, you might want to ask the admins / mods to move this to the Tanks and Seats section, where the tank experts are more likely to see it.
Most tanks can be saved, though it might not be economical to do so. That being said, there is good advice on how to de-rust old tanks available on the 'net, including on this site, for example, this thread:
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=4564
IMO, you have nothing to lose by trying to save that tank. Begin by using a solution, such as Evapo-Rust; Rusteco; Zep Calcium, Lime and Rust Remover; diluted muriatic acid, or whatever else you think would work for you. I can attest to the quality of Evapo-Rust, which is biodegradeable and won't harm the environment. Evapo-Rust is available across the US at Autozone; I always find it near the paint display...
Once you've cleaned the tank with some type of solution or solvent, you'll have a better idea of the real internal condition of the tank. If derusting it opens pinholes and makes it leak, you'll know that the tank requires more expensive repair, and that will help you decide whether to continue trying to repair the tank, or to look for another.
Evapo-Rust isn't expensive, it isn't toxic or caustic, it won't burn or blind you, and it won't remove the paint from the tank. Other solutions, such as muriatic acid and Zep CLR are toxic, and harmful, and they WILL remove the paint, so only you can decide which method to use. Whatever you choose, keep your costs down; if you decide to scrap the tank, it won't have cost you $200 to learn that the tank is junk.
Once you've got the metal cleaned, coat the tank to prevent it from flash-rusting. Then examine the tank inside and out, looking for pinholes and weak, rusty metal under the paint, especially near the bottom seams of the tank, any low spots where condensation can collect inside the tank, and at all seams and joints. Pay CLOSE attention to the bottom of the tank; although a tank can leak from any point, fluids sit in the bottom of the tank for extended periods of time, and that is where rust has the best chance of weakening the metal.
If you're satisfied with the basic integrity of the tank, you can then decide whether to use POR-15 (or another product) to seal the tank. Though I've had some good results with Kreem, a lot depends on the condition of the tank, and the preparation of the metal BEFORE the Kreem is applied. If the tank isn't CLEAN and DRY, you WILL run into problems over time...
Good luck; hope this information helps you.. kd
Most tanks can be saved, though it might not be economical to do so. That being said, there is good advice on how to de-rust old tanks available on the 'net, including on this site, for example, this thread:
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=4564
IMO, you have nothing to lose by trying to save that tank. Begin by using a solution, such as Evapo-Rust; Rusteco; Zep Calcium, Lime and Rust Remover; diluted muriatic acid, or whatever else you think would work for you. I can attest to the quality of Evapo-Rust, which is biodegradeable and won't harm the environment. Evapo-Rust is available across the US at Autozone; I always find it near the paint display...
Once you've cleaned the tank with some type of solution or solvent, you'll have a better idea of the real internal condition of the tank. If derusting it opens pinholes and makes it leak, you'll know that the tank requires more expensive repair, and that will help you decide whether to continue trying to repair the tank, or to look for another.
Evapo-Rust isn't expensive, it isn't toxic or caustic, it won't burn or blind you, and it won't remove the paint from the tank. Other solutions, such as muriatic acid and Zep CLR are toxic, and harmful, and they WILL remove the paint, so only you can decide which method to use. Whatever you choose, keep your costs down; if you decide to scrap the tank, it won't have cost you $200 to learn that the tank is junk.
Once you've got the metal cleaned, coat the tank to prevent it from flash-rusting. Then examine the tank inside and out, looking for pinholes and weak, rusty metal under the paint, especially near the bottom seams of the tank, any low spots where condensation can collect inside the tank, and at all seams and joints. Pay CLOSE attention to the bottom of the tank; although a tank can leak from any point, fluids sit in the bottom of the tank for extended periods of time, and that is where rust has the best chance of weakening the metal.
If you're satisfied with the basic integrity of the tank, you can then decide whether to use POR-15 (or another product) to seal the tank. Though I've had some good results with Kreem, a lot depends on the condition of the tank, and the preparation of the metal BEFORE the Kreem is applied. If the tank isn't CLEAN and DRY, you WILL run into problems over time...
Good luck; hope this information helps you.. kd
Wow, two references to my tip thread! ;D I've had tanks that looked just as bad as that when I started. It turned out nice and shiny and new looking about 24 hours later. So, yes, it is possible to bring it back. If it doesn't have any dents, or the paint is perfect, why not try to save it? As mentioned before, it's only $10 and a little time.
Anywho, ZEP will NOT harm your paint. At least not if you just spill a little on it and clean it off in a reasonable amount of time. Believe you me, I've done it. Full strength ZEP all over my fairly fresh cheapo spray bomb paint job. Looks every bit as good as it did before.
Secondly, there's no reason to coat the tank with Kreem unless you have pinholes you need to seal up. POR15 won't seal up holes, it's more of a metal treatment than a sealer. POR15 is a good product, but really, you don't need to coat a tank if you treat it with the proper care. Keep it full of gas, or fog it when in storage, use quality gas, not some cheapie no-name gas place that likely has water in their tanks (for the few cents less, its REALLY not worth it). The tank on my 650 is testament to that. It's been properly taken care of it's whole life and it looks perfect inside and has never been cleaned or coated.
Condensation comes from cycles of heating and cooling. So, if at all possible, keep your bike in the shade, especially if you have a dark coloured tank.
Anywho, ZEP will NOT harm your paint. At least not if you just spill a little on it and clean it off in a reasonable amount of time. Believe you me, I've done it. Full strength ZEP all over my fairly fresh cheapo spray bomb paint job. Looks every bit as good as it did before.
Secondly, there's no reason to coat the tank with Kreem unless you have pinholes you need to seal up. POR15 won't seal up holes, it's more of a metal treatment than a sealer. POR15 is a good product, but really, you don't need to coat a tank if you treat it with the proper care. Keep it full of gas, or fog it when in storage, use quality gas, not some cheapie no-name gas place that likely has water in their tanks (for the few cents less, its REALLY not worth it). The tank on my 650 is testament to that. It's been properly taken care of it's whole life and it looks perfect inside and has never been cleaned or coated.
Condensation comes from cycles of heating and cooling. So, if at all possible, keep your bike in the shade, especially if you have a dark coloured tank.
brewtown16
what, me worry?
rudy, you have some before/after pics of the CLR treatment?
