It's ALIVE!!!! Running in suggestions?

tma360

New Member
Hey guys,

After months of building and weeks of "Why the heck won't this thing start?!" my '76 CB360 is running like a champ! It's my first rebuild and so I just thought I'd ask if anybody has any tips/tricks about running in a rebuilt engine?
 
Overbore, new rings, new seals, new chain, new gaskets, new valves.

**Update: Now there's a bunch of smoke out of one side!!! Uh oh! :eek:
 
Define "a bunch"?

After a complete rebuild, smoking is extremely common for the first few miles. Everything needs to seat in and form a better seal.

For peace of mind, do a compression check and let us know the numbers.
 
Compression check will have to wait until tomorrow, but "a bunch" means one of my neighbors came down the alley to make sure someone's house wasn't burning down... granted I live in a pretty yuppie neighborhood, but that's still pretty bad!

I started it a few times with no smoke, or no noticeable smoke, then it slowly began to get worse. I am pretty confident the rings are in the right way round and there are new valve seals, so perhaps it is the valve guide? Although since it didn't happen right away, I figure they can't have fouled in the five minutes I was running it.

Beside the smoke, which I am probably just overreacting about, any running in suggestions?
 
tma360 said:
Beside the smoke, which I am probably just overreacting about, any running in suggestions?

That's a can of worms right there. ;)

My advice is progressive loading over the course of the first 20 miles or so. Let it idle to warm up and dial in the timing, sync the carbs, set air/fuel screws, and adjust the idle speed. Bike should be warmed up and ready for the first ride.

Take it up and down the street a few times, keeping it in first and second. Try to stay off the brakes and let the engine do the braking for you. Keep the revs at or below 4000 rpm, but never steady.

Then find a country road with very little traffic and start the break in. A full throttle run through the first few gears, but short shift it about half-way through the rev range. After you hit your artificial redline, coast down to 3000 rpm, then downshift through the gears until you come to a stop (or near stop without killing the bike). Repeat again and again, adding 1000 revs to your redline each time, and 500 to your downshift point. Continue until you reach about 1000 revs short of the bike's redline. This will often be five or six total runs.

During this process, be very sure not to lug the bike. Better to rev a bit high than to do something like shifting into 5th when you're only going 20 mph.
 
Thanks sonreir! Hopefully a bit o' that will burn off whatever is going on... otherwise I now have a James Bond smoke screen to go with my new moto!
 
Sonreir said:
That's a can of worms right there. ;)

My advice is progressive loading over the course of the first 20 miles or so. Let it idle to warm up and dial in the timing, sync the carbs, set air/fuel screws, and adjust the idle speed. Bike should be warmed up and ready for the first ride.

Take it up and down the street a few times, keeping it in first and second. Try to stay off the brakes and let the engine do the braking for you. Keep the revs at or below 4000 rpm, but never steady.

Then find a country road with very little traffic and start the break in. A full throttle run through the first few gears, but short shift it about half-way through the rev range. After you hit your artificial redline, coast down to 3000 rpm, then downshift through the gears until you come to a stop (or near stop without killing the bike). Repeat again and again, adding 1000 revs to your redline each time, and 500 to your downshift point. Continue until you reach about 1000 revs short of the bike's redline. This will often be five or six total runs.

During this process, be very sure not to lug the bike. Better to rev a bit high than to do something like shifting into 5th when you're only going 20 mph.
thanks Sonreir. Is it better to run a little rich at this time? We pulled or plugs and we a running a little rich.
 
Texasstar said:
thanks Sonreir. Is it better to run a little rich at this time? We pulled or plugs and we a running a little rich.

Not as far as I know. I usually try to keep the A/F ratios are correct as possible. A little rich (12:1 or 13:1) is actually better for making power though. Plugs should be a light tan color on the electrodes.
 
Sonreir said:
Not as far as I know. I usually try to keep the A/F ratios are correct as possible. A little rich (12:1 or 13:1) is actually better for making power though. Plugs should be a light tan color on the electrodes.
thank you we will go down a set of jets. We are at 105 and will go down to 102. Starts without a choke but on the maiden voyage to show our neighbors who helped us she was a little hard starting after being warmed up and shut down. How long should we wait before doing a compression check? We have a small amount smoke at this time.
 
I do a cold compression check before even starting the engine for the first time. Then another after I have the idle dialed in (this guarantees a warm engine for a better reading). Another one after the run in period (after one hundred miles or so).
 
Texasstar said:
We were at 95 after the build before first start. Will do another tonight.

That's pretty low. I'd be interested to see how it is after the run in.
 
The 95, was it with dry rings? just after rebuild without a good crank over to distribute oil etc? if so it should have gone up with oil circulation and should go up again after engine is at operating temp, then up again after run it for sure.
 
skatetheame said:
I see overbore listed but no new pistons? How much did you go over?

My bad, definitely new pistons and pins. Can't remember how much over, but I believe it was the second overbore? 0.003? 0.005? Not sure. First rebuild!
 
Just for reference, I got 151 PSI on a cold and dry motor, so under 100 may be cause for concern.
 
Maritime said:
The 95, was it with dry rings? just after rebuild without a good crank over to distribute oil etc? if so it should have gone up with oil circulation and should go up again after engine is at operating temp, then up again after run it for sure.
yes it was dry. We shot oil into the cylinders and it jumped to 180 plus.

Just did a check and have 120 on the left and 60 on the right. Gonna shoot some oil and see if it changes...I am pretty sure the valves need to be adjusted...the oil didn't circulate till we fired it up for the first time. I have a pop sound every 4 seconds.
 
Sonreir said:
Just for reference, I got 151 PSI on a cold and dry motor, so under 100 may be cause for concern.
wont make that mistake again...forgot to open the throttle...both sides are 125
 

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