Krazy Katana

Hey guys! Just a quick update and wanted some advice. I found a Katana that I'm planning on going down to check out this afternoon.
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/mcd/5525422687.html
I just got off the phone with the shop and they said they had it running, but it sat so it'll need a carb clean, battery, etc (which I already have). It came in as an insurance claim b/c of the toasted bodywork and the owner ended up asking them to sell it. After that one of the old mechanics was fixing it up to buy for himself but flaked out and never finished it. Just wondering if this seems like a good deal or not! I figure I can sell off the titled roller to make a bit of money back.
 
Yeah, they said its running but a bit rough from sitting after an old mechanic got it running then bailed out on finishing it. I'm gonna bring my battery down to crank it over.
 
So, I ended up buying it. Motor cranked over, but there was some crud sitting in the #1 intake ports. So, I swapped the cam gears from the 96 motor onto the cams from the 90 motor. I have to dig around and either find the head gasket I put in last year (1k miles ago or so) or order a new one. I have a spare set of the o-rings that go with it so I figured re-using a low-mile HG wouldn't be a big deal.
 
I need some help on the cam timing... The newer chain has a much shorter pin-to-pin length than the old one, so the "21 pins" to align the cams doesn't work. I was wondering if anyone knew how I should be setting the cam timing for a newer katana 600. Other than that, everything else on the motor is ready to go.
Update: Cam timing is 24 pins for 96+, 21 pins for 88-95. I should have the motor back together and put into the 90 frame by tonight.
 
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Engine is back together! Just need to get 'er back in the frame.
 
Did you check the valves while the engine was out?

A week ago I knew nothing about Katana's... now I've seen 400 videos since buying the '89 :D
 
I didn't do the valves on the new style motor, but I've already set the valves on the 1990 head. I kind of assumed they's be fine from the last time I did it (not too long ago) but I should probably just do it again, not like its hard or anything.
 
Also, the motor is back in the frame. It's nice that I can do it myself with a jack and rear wheel stand. I'm rebuilding the carbs, so once those parts are here I'll get her back together. Hooked the battery up and she cranks over though!
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Just thought of something as far as the carb rebuild and my old running issues... Would the plugs that go over the pilot jet being old/hard and barely staying in the hole for the pilot jet cause my idle issues? I remember spraying WD-40 and carb cleaner around the boots and it didn't affect the idle.
Also wondering if I still need to use crush gaskets with the Vance & Hines exhaust. I noticed there weren't any on there but not sure if that's the PO being lazy and dumb or if its intentional.
 
Yep, use new gaskets when you fit exhaust.
Make sure the old ones are dug out though, way too easy to think they are missing, fit new and still have exhaust leaks
 
They're definitely dug out/gone haha. I'm gonna buy a 10 pack of aftermarket gaskets since it's the same as 2 OE ones and I figure I'll end up taking the exhaust off at least once sometime soon (hoping to get a new, less beat up set of pipes)
 
;D
You got that sorted then
The plugs over pilot jets are held in with a little nub on float holder 'block'. Aslong as there is still a slight taper so plugs seal pilot circuit it will be fine.
If they leak bike runs very rich at low rpm. Of course, it can be an issue on only one cylinder and, the rich running can 'move around' every time you take carbs apart.
If you can get new plugs for a reasonable price it will be worth fitting new ones (Suzuki go a bit crazy sometimes for tiny 'rubber' parts)
 
crazypj said:
;D
You got that sorted then
The plugs over pilot jets are held in with a little nub on float holder 'block'. Aslong as there is still a slight taper so plugs seal pilot circuit it will be fine.
If they leak bike runs very rich at low rpm. Of course, it can be an issue on only one cylinder and, the rich running can 'move around' every time you take carbs apart.
If you can get new plugs for a reasonable price it will be worth fitting new ones (Suzuki go a bit crazy sometimes for tiny 'rubber' parts)
Click to expand...
Would the rich condition at low rpm cause my idle issues? I want to figure out what's going on so I can get her to idle correctly before I start commuting again.
And it's just under $15 for a set of the plugs which doesn't seem too bad to me, especially since I'm not so sure on how well they're sealing at the moment.
 
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She's alive! Got the carbs put back together two days ago, went for a test ride yesterday, and went for a big (~120 miles) ride today.
Idle is still a little high, but I'm gonna blame that on the carbs not being synced perfectly (bench sync done, but my vacuum gauge is up in Washington). Idle is lower and more consistent than it's ever been though! I used the stock 112.5 mains that were in the "new" carbs, and I think it needs to be a bit richer. It hesitates on heavier throttle at mid-rpm but will pull well once it gets past the hesitation. I plan on ordering 115 and 117.5 mains, I still think the 120s in the old carbs were running it too rich.
She's very cold blooded though, doesn't like to start when it's cold in the morning. I really wish the choke stayed open instead of having to be held open, it makes trying to bump start a low battery very difficult
 
I've got 117.5 in mine and it's a bit rich.
Probably need 115 in outside carbs and 117.5 in middle ones? (or whatever they did stock, I forget if outer or inner were bigger?)
 
CALfeRacer said:
Inner was bigger on 88-89, then starting in 90 all 4 were the same
Click to expand...

Guess that shows the last time I used service manual for Katana carbs ;D
 
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