Lights blew and I am in the dark as to why.

liceyscrub

And now for something completely different
so, blew all the lights (yes, headlight, blinkers and the works) on my cl350 but the only one that did not break is the taillight LED I installed. Figure I got a wiring problem somewhere(brilliant I know). I rebuilt the bike and it ran great for the 45 minute ride and no electrical issues.

There is another possibly related issue and it seems as though the bike runs even when I turn the key to the off position. It only runs on one cylinder but will not stop till I hit the kill switch. This aint normal right? Bike is basically stock and the only thing I chance out was the recitfyer and now it will actually hold a charge and not kill the battery which is good, so I figure I did it right.

Couple things I did to troubleshoot.
1. checked all of the power leads to the coils, ignition, and kill switch and get 12.7V. That is at the Coil with it disconnected from the points. When the coil is connected to the points and the key is turned on, the right coil (the one with the point(s) closed or touching) is reading 11.3V and if I check continuity between that point and coil to the - on the battery (ground) I get tone. Is this normal??? seems as it would be when I look at the wiring diagram, but wanted to check

2. After about 8 minutes of other checking other stuff I go around and the right coil (the one with tone in #1) is starting to get rather hot. Is this normal? I assume not.


Got new bulbs (all LED) coming in, but do not want to really take the thing out without finding the electrical issue and the cause of the original issue. Got any ideas? I am not an electrical genius, but I have done some in the past. Not sure if ti could be a bad coil? Condensor? or something else?

John
 
Check all wiring. Something is not right. It can be everywhere, so be sure to check and re-check everywhere.
electrical problems can be very annoying, but you have to deal with them now and then and deal with them proper. They will bite back if done half-assed.
 
yes it is normal for a coil to get hot if key is left on and circuit is closed.....funny it blew all except for the most voltage sensitive led's ...(must have a higher rating on them) did the filaments burn or break from vibration? not sure why you are checking your coil voltage when your bulbs went bad? you need to check your charging system and see if the regulator is causing excessive voltage and then bulb failure(over 14 or 14.5 volts max)..the bike not turning off with the key may or may not be your problem but it needs to be fixed before moving onto the lights....
joe@vcycle
www.joesvcycle.wordpress.com
 
Reg/Rec went bad. Check the voltage to the battery. With the battery at full charge start the bike and get a voltage reading then rev the bike. It should not go over 13.8 to 14 volt. If it does then you regulator/Rector fire took a shit.
 
DoubleClutch said:
Reg/Rec went bad. Check the voltage to the battery. With the battery at full charge start the bike and get a voltage reading then rev the bike. It should not go over 13.8 to 14 volt. If it does then you regulator/Rector fire took a shit.

My rector never took a shit. She was beautiful and beautiful women don't shit.
 
DoubleClutch said:
Reg/Rec went bad. Check the voltage to the battery. With the battery at full charge start the bike and get a voltage reading then rev the bike. It should not go over 13.8 to 14 volt. If it does then you regulator/Rector fire took a shit.

Pays to read the manual..
Honda spec says 15.0V +/- 0.5 Volt
 

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Close, but no cigar. Since nearly all modern regulators are set for 14.5 volts, and battery chargers too, if you used 14 volt or higher you would be condemning a lot of properly functioning devices.

So yes you were close, but still bad information.


Sent from planet Earth using mysterious electronic devices and Tapatalk
 
Just replaced the rectifyer since the old one did not work. Guess I should start with what I screwed up and then go from there.
 
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