Linkage

Red Fthr

"Man is born free, and he is everywhere in chains"
So I received a beautiful pair of rear sets from J-Rod...the only thing now is, I'm not too sure how to link up the rear brake. Everything else seems to be pretty straight forward. Does anyone have any pics or solutions? Thanks
 
Hey man, I got your PM. I'm out of town at the moment, but when I get back, I'll see what pics of my 500 I have that have that set-up. Hopefully I have a few, as I tore that bike down to rebuild last week.
 
You've got a couple of options, but a lot (obviously) depends on what kind of bike you have, where your rear sets are mounted, and what your rear brake set up is. Generally, if you've got a rear drum, you can use a cable or a rod (again, depending on what bike you have, set up, etc.). And you can extend or shorten your brake stop to help with clearance issues (shock, hub, peg mount, etc.) if you're using a rod. Again, bike specifics would be helpful.
 
What bike is this for and what type of brake (drum, disk, hydraulic, rod)? All this factors into how you can set it up. If its the typical rod actuated drum brake, the best solution is to find a way to use the stock brake lever that pulls the brake arm. Hard to explain without pictures but basically you are reusing the stock brake arm (only the part that pulls the rod), you'll need to do some welding to make an attachment for your rearsets to push. There are some clean solutions like this done on this board. Have a search and take a look at the pictures.
 
Hey guys, sorry, I've been without internet for the past few days.

Important details:

it's a 1971 honda cb500 with a drum brake. J-Rod10 is looking for some photos for me and has been a big help in getting me set up with some killer rear sets, but I would love to hear other suggestions as well.


I'm thinking I need new linkage for what I'm trying to do (maybe not). My goal is to weld the rear sets right under the swing arm. like pictured below, just not sure how to link up the rear brake with what I have.
 

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IF you're going to use a rod -- or want to -- key part is remembering that you can shift the position of the rear brake lever on the hub by lengthening or shortening your brake stop -- clearances to watch for include shock, peg mount and swing arm.
 
Also, the mounting arm on the rearset lever and the shift lever itself need to be at the same angle. This is especially important for the brake side.
 
All great info guys.

Also, I've seen people flip their brake arm (on the brake itself, you know, the adjustable part with the spring?) and connect a rod that way. I want to avoid that at all cost. Like I said, I think I need different linkage to accomplish what I need to.
 
Should be stated as well, just for the record, that the length of the arm that connects to the linkage matters. If you've got a shorter one on your rearset, stepping on the lever will move the brake lever on the hub less distance, and vice versa. Rear sets with short levers to connect to the brakes require short levers on the hub.

It's math, maaaaannn.
 
River City Rocker said:
All great info guys.

Also, I've seen people flip their brake arm (on the brake itself, you know, the adjustable part with the spring?) and connect a rod that way. I want to avoid that at all cost. Like I said, I think I need different linkage to accomplish what I need to.

There is absolutely no problem in doing that. The lever actuates an eccentric inside the drum. As long as the shaft rotates the correct amount, it will apply the brake.
 
I'm learning so much at the moment, thanks guys. And did someone mention math? All hope is lost. ;)
 
you cannot just run a rod from the rearset brake pedal directly to the rear brake hub brake lever
it will not work very well at all, no adjustability and bump brake effect will be the result
 
xb33bsa said:
you cannot just run a rod from the rearset brake pedal directly to the rear brake hub brake lever
it will not work very well at all, no adjustability and bump brake effect will be the result

True. Modify the stock linkage if possible. Keep the sprung end on the drum end.
 
Not necessarily, depending on the pivot point for where the rear set link to the rod mounts, and it's relationship to the wheel moving up and down on the shock.
 
carnivorous chicken said:
Not necessarily, depending on the pivot point for where the rear set link to the rod mounts, and it's relationship to the wheel moving up and down on the shock.
anything further than 2" or so from the pivot is when problems arise,the further away the worse the issue gets,depends on rear wheel travel as well
it is real easy to do a mockup without shocks mounted and watch rhe pedal go crazy
the biggest issue arises when you can no longer have an upstop on the pedal
 
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