Maritime's new GL - 2UP Distance eater
- Thread starter Maritime
- Start date
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
So I've been fighting an infection in my foot/leg but today Ibgot some shit done. Rad swapped from 1100;,to 1000. It fits and I polished the chrome air ducts. Look ok. I am also doing honey do's and painting heaters. The house came with almond heaters and all the trim is white so we change every heater when we paint a room. Almost done
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SoyBoySigh
Been Around the Block
Ah but then again, I'm forgetting the ridiculous orientation of the CX and GL pedals, aren't I? Think I'm so smart - BAH!
Yeah that IS some messed up stuff. However there's surely a way to fudge this together. Something I found for the rear-sets version of these heel-toe shifters, was a short double-ended splined that came with a pedal & some and links etc, inherent to some odd-ball pedals & levers I had picked up - IIRC it was all off of a Yamaha XVZ "Venture Royale" (Which was basically a hideous GL1200 Aspencade/Interstate dresser type of monstrousity, in the guise of "Yamaha school of design" no less - yet which was powered by a 1200+cc's V-MAX ENFINE, so IMHO would make one hell of a cool "Naked Goldwing's Club" style '87 GL1200 to '75 GL1000 conversion, wire-spoke bobber/café type of deal. No, seriously though.) IMHO a splined shifter such as this Cub thing, could pivot on that short splined shaft IF the shaft were supported somewhere like perhaps a passenger peg hanger or some such. I always wanted to poke one through my rear-sets plates. Furthermore, if say I were building an ENGINE for my beloved DOHC-4, a SOHC-4 perhaps ... or FAR FAR more likely PAYING somebody ELSE to build the damn engine ha-ha - I've always wondered about shortening that engine's shift arm shaft & re-weld the pivot arm to the shortened end of it plus anything connecting to the shift forks & drum etc, such that the splines no longer project all the way outside of the frame, and I could then run some rear-sets linkage UNDER the frame, ideally not too too close to the CHAIN of course, with the lever arm on the bracket attaching via splines, via one such a short double-ended spline as I found with those odd-ball Yamaha pedals etc, so as to mirror the BRAKE side of things, with the oft-times seemingly superfluous splined shaft on the brake pivot. (Especially on a DRUM brake model, but then again when you want to optimize the action you really do want that 90-degree + a smidge so as to get optimum leverage at the point of max brake contact etc etc, ergo the toe tip being pointed up or down should never interfere with this arrangement of the rods & levers, ergo the pedal and linkage lever arm MUST have an adjustable position, IF your pedal is to be considered adjustable in any sense.....) I realize it's one heck of a mess to do all of that type of thing, but I like the idea of a rear-set peg position on a bike which nevertheless looks entirely "showroom original" - like on a SAND-CAST SOHC CB750K0, '69-'70 Die-Cast for that matter - I wouldn't wanna mess up too much of it's good looks. Meanwhile I WOULD however prefer to run some rear-sets with a very aggressive off-set for heavy lean-angles and low, tuck, "Monkey Fornicates Football" posture where your nipples make contact with the gas-tank (best way to be sure your fuel isn't overheating) type of ergonomics - BUT, with the caveat that the whole aesthetic of the thing the parts selection and the surface treatments etc, such that you'd make it 90% of the way through a concours restoration "bike of the year" contest, right up to the point where the judges confer with one another and take a tape measure to your foot-pegs etc. Which is to say, I want 'em to look like they BELONG there. Much like Honda did with the DOHC-4 series "Sport-Kit" rear-sets, except for the fact that NONE of those Dunstall rip-off style Aluminium brackets look like they BELONG on the 'F-series DOHC-4 bikes - Not since the CB72/CB77 themselves have they pulled off that look. But yeah, factory style peg pivot mounts and pedal pivot sleeves just ... welded to another spot entirely. Planning to do MINE with a sort of Ron Haslam CB1100R style alloy bracket, VF400F type of thing - mounting lugs welded aft of the sub-frame down-tubes, for a separate removable/adjustable/replaceable alloy plate which could then be painted to match the frame. Meanwhile, some early SOHC tubular steel frame-integral passenger peg hangers, cut off of somebody's Hard-Tail chopper (here's but one good reason not to ostracize the poor choppaheads bless their differently-abled, rolling stone magazine and/or "bikez & tattooz"-addled minds....) to be welded solidly to my DOHC CB750F frame, along with a bracing kit, fairing mount off the steering stem, a whole BUNCHA welding to do on that frame - so you see, relocated rear-set mounts doesn't seem like such a big deal anymore. I could see where it would seem like a stupid idea if you weren't doing anything else. But then, the stupidity doesn't come from dragging out your welder or disassembling the frame, it stems from thinking that's where you'd STOP with the welding projects. I mean, even a re-located SIDE-STAND lug, chopper style moved forward out of the way of all peg & pipe interferences. Would be nice to figure out a decent alternative mount for a center-stand as well. Right now, I've got a trick going where I take the OEM center--stand and I cut out some 51%+ of the circumference of the TUBE at the top, which rides around the pivot tube which is clamped. See, this way you can pop the side-stand under there, it's just tight enough of a fit that you need to "pop" it onto the pivot tube and it'll stay in place while you swing the bike over-top of it. The pivot-tube stays on the bike, but it's just light-weight alloy, there's hardly any extra mass at all - but the side-stand comes off the bike until you actually need it. I could also see building an alternative version which could pop under the seat for long-distance touring etc.
Of course it goes without saying, that all of these ergonomic mods go in concert WITH a very low handlebar, for me it'd be a high bar 'cause I wouldn't go full-on CLUBMAN/CLIP-ON (or my own DIY combined "Club-On/Clip-Man" bars ha-ha) on the Sand-Cast or '75 GL1000 or CB750F1, '78 CBX, '79 CB900FZ, '79 CB750KZ-LTD or '81 CB1100R type of thing - YOU know the stuff that's so iconic you just have to leave it bone-stock, more like a perfectly horizontal broomstick/drag-bar or better still there was a bar on some of the CB72//CB77 Hawk/SuperHawk, which was almost flat but still with that double S-bend lift/pull-back) -
(((Another good source would be a MOUNTAINBIKE bar, if you can find one with the clear polish chrome finish type of deal, and unless you've got the mid-'70s+ one-piece clamp/cover with the lights etc, or if you're a DOHC-4 person who ISN'T quick to tear off that fugly plastic fuse-box B.S. - then you'll want one with the same 7/8" clamp diameter across the middle instead of the thicker tapered bar thing - Strangely enough, bars like this can be rather hard to find from vintage bicycle suppliers, but there's a spark of hope in the NEW "vintage"/"retro" bicycle scene. Sadly, MY local bicycle shop isn't CAPABLE of ordering replacement bars for the models they've got on the showroom floor, the only separate replacement handlebars they're selling are the catalogue crap for BMX & mountainbikes etc, in all of the fugly "anodize treatments" and "graphics options" as necessary - but a person could always STEAL a bicycle ha-ha. No - there's gotta be a way to get some of those cool low-rise bar bends, in an ALUMINUM bar no less - I've been diggin' through the vintage RACING bicycle sites & NOS suppliers' catalogues, hoping & praying I'll find just the right bars. But SFAIK there were some early Honda twins which had bars like that - total 24-carat Unobtainium, however there are reproductions coming out every day. For instance, the CB400F was a common low-rise bar to swap onto a SOHC 750 - well I'm guessing some of the CB72/CB77 types are gonna come back as well.)))
But yeah, CLEARLY - the shifters on bikes with a longitudinal crankshaft, talking like Goldwings, CX series, Guzzi twins or BMW's etc - would need a proper linkage for a heel-toe shifter. Oddly enough, several of the older GUZZI models already HAVE that type of set-up. Ergo, they'd be a good donor for spares, maybe even a complete package/system could be transplanted?
Just a brain-fart.
-Sigh.
Yeah that IS some messed up stuff. However there's surely a way to fudge this together. Something I found for the rear-sets version of these heel-toe shifters, was a short double-ended splined that came with a pedal & some and links etc, inherent to some odd-ball pedals & levers I had picked up - IIRC it was all off of a Yamaha XVZ "Venture Royale" (Which was basically a hideous GL1200 Aspencade/Interstate dresser type of monstrousity, in the guise of "Yamaha school of design" no less - yet which was powered by a 1200+cc's V-MAX ENFINE, so IMHO would make one hell of a cool "Naked Goldwing's Club" style '87 GL1200 to '75 GL1000 conversion, wire-spoke bobber/café type of deal. No, seriously though.) IMHO a splined shifter such as this Cub thing, could pivot on that short splined shaft IF the shaft were supported somewhere like perhaps a passenger peg hanger or some such. I always wanted to poke one through my rear-sets plates. Furthermore, if say I were building an ENGINE for my beloved DOHC-4, a SOHC-4 perhaps ... or FAR FAR more likely PAYING somebody ELSE to build the damn engine ha-ha - I've always wondered about shortening that engine's shift arm shaft & re-weld the pivot arm to the shortened end of it plus anything connecting to the shift forks & drum etc, such that the splines no longer project all the way outside of the frame, and I could then run some rear-sets linkage UNDER the frame, ideally not too too close to the CHAIN of course, with the lever arm on the bracket attaching via splines, via one such a short double-ended spline as I found with those odd-ball Yamaha pedals etc, so as to mirror the BRAKE side of things, with the oft-times seemingly superfluous splined shaft on the brake pivot. (Especially on a DRUM brake model, but then again when you want to optimize the action you really do want that 90-degree + a smidge so as to get optimum leverage at the point of max brake contact etc etc, ergo the toe tip being pointed up or down should never interfere with this arrangement of the rods & levers, ergo the pedal and linkage lever arm MUST have an adjustable position, IF your pedal is to be considered adjustable in any sense.....) I realize it's one heck of a mess to do all of that type of thing, but I like the idea of a rear-set peg position on a bike which nevertheless looks entirely "showroom original" - like on a SAND-CAST SOHC CB750K0, '69-'70 Die-Cast for that matter - I wouldn't wanna mess up too much of it's good looks. Meanwhile I WOULD however prefer to run some rear-sets with a very aggressive off-set for heavy lean-angles and low, tuck, "Monkey Fornicates Football" posture where your nipples make contact with the gas-tank (best way to be sure your fuel isn't overheating) type of ergonomics - BUT, with the caveat that the whole aesthetic of the thing the parts selection and the surface treatments etc, such that you'd make it 90% of the way through a concours restoration "bike of the year" contest, right up to the point where the judges confer with one another and take a tape measure to your foot-pegs etc. Which is to say, I want 'em to look like they BELONG there. Much like Honda did with the DOHC-4 series "Sport-Kit" rear-sets, except for the fact that NONE of those Dunstall rip-off style Aluminium brackets look like they BELONG on the 'F-series DOHC-4 bikes - Not since the CB72/CB77 themselves have they pulled off that look. But yeah, factory style peg pivot mounts and pedal pivot sleeves just ... welded to another spot entirely. Planning to do MINE with a sort of Ron Haslam CB1100R style alloy bracket, VF400F type of thing - mounting lugs welded aft of the sub-frame down-tubes, for a separate removable/adjustable/replaceable alloy plate which could then be painted to match the frame. Meanwhile, some early SOHC tubular steel frame-integral passenger peg hangers, cut off of somebody's Hard-Tail chopper (here's but one good reason not to ostracize the poor choppaheads bless their differently-abled, rolling stone magazine and/or "bikez & tattooz"-addled minds....) to be welded solidly to my DOHC CB750F frame, along with a bracing kit, fairing mount off the steering stem, a whole BUNCHA welding to do on that frame - so you see, relocated rear-set mounts doesn't seem like such a big deal anymore. I could see where it would seem like a stupid idea if you weren't doing anything else. But then, the stupidity doesn't come from dragging out your welder or disassembling the frame, it stems from thinking that's where you'd STOP with the welding projects. I mean, even a re-located SIDE-STAND lug, chopper style moved forward out of the way of all peg & pipe interferences. Would be nice to figure out a decent alternative mount for a center-stand as well. Right now, I've got a trick going where I take the OEM center--stand and I cut out some 51%+ of the circumference of the TUBE at the top, which rides around the pivot tube which is clamped. See, this way you can pop the side-stand under there, it's just tight enough of a fit that you need to "pop" it onto the pivot tube and it'll stay in place while you swing the bike over-top of it. The pivot-tube stays on the bike, but it's just light-weight alloy, there's hardly any extra mass at all - but the side-stand comes off the bike until you actually need it. I could also see building an alternative version which could pop under the seat for long-distance touring etc.
Of course it goes without saying, that all of these ergonomic mods go in concert WITH a very low handlebar, for me it'd be a high bar 'cause I wouldn't go full-on CLUBMAN/CLIP-ON (or my own DIY combined "Club-On/Clip-Man" bars ha-ha) on the Sand-Cast or '75 GL1000 or CB750F1, '78 CBX, '79 CB900FZ, '79 CB750KZ-LTD or '81 CB1100R type of thing - YOU know the stuff that's so iconic you just have to leave it bone-stock, more like a perfectly horizontal broomstick/drag-bar or better still there was a bar on some of the CB72//CB77 Hawk/SuperHawk, which was almost flat but still with that double S-bend lift/pull-back) -
(((Another good source would be a MOUNTAINBIKE bar, if you can find one with the clear polish chrome finish type of deal, and unless you've got the mid-'70s+ one-piece clamp/cover with the lights etc, or if you're a DOHC-4 person who ISN'T quick to tear off that fugly plastic fuse-box B.S. - then you'll want one with the same 7/8" clamp diameter across the middle instead of the thicker tapered bar thing - Strangely enough, bars like this can be rather hard to find from vintage bicycle suppliers, but there's a spark of hope in the NEW "vintage"/"retro" bicycle scene. Sadly, MY local bicycle shop isn't CAPABLE of ordering replacement bars for the models they've got on the showroom floor, the only separate replacement handlebars they're selling are the catalogue crap for BMX & mountainbikes etc, in all of the fugly "anodize treatments" and "graphics options" as necessary - but a person could always STEAL a bicycle ha-ha. No - there's gotta be a way to get some of those cool low-rise bar bends, in an ALUMINUM bar no less - I've been diggin' through the vintage RACING bicycle sites & NOS suppliers' catalogues, hoping & praying I'll find just the right bars. But SFAIK there were some early Honda twins which had bars like that - total 24-carat Unobtainium, however there are reproductions coming out every day. For instance, the CB400F was a common low-rise bar to swap onto a SOHC 750 - well I'm guessing some of the CB72/CB77 types are gonna come back as well.)))
But yeah, CLEARLY - the shifters on bikes with a longitudinal crankshaft, talking like Goldwings, CX series, Guzzi twins or BMW's etc - would need a proper linkage for a heel-toe shifter. Oddly enough, several of the older GUZZI models already HAVE that type of set-up. Ergo, they'd be a good donor for spares, maybe even a complete package/system could be transplanted?
Just a brain-fart.
-Sigh.
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
I should be able to cut out the old gauges holes and put a plate in cut to fit new one and make it look factory. I still will need a volt meter so I will use the analog or get a digital. Will be fun wiring this thing instructions are poorly translated Chinese to English lol.
JustinLonghorn
No Purple Hearts, No Blue Ribbons
That'll do.
Kydex. It's easy to mold, too. Or glass it.
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
Redneck tach plug. Cut cable end off, pull cable bit. Fill with 2 part metal epoxy and BAM, no one will ever see it but no crud gets in. Moving to digital tach in the new gauge unit. Also fender needs both a trim and a lowering I think.
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K
Kamn
Guest
Looking good man.....nice solution to tach plug
