Matte Clear?

[GySchmit]

Last year or so I repainted my Thrux with Krylon Textured Shimmer Black (more of a gray). Way KEWL color in that it has a textured finish and within the paint are small flakes of pearl so where the sun hits it it Shines and you have little shimmers as it fades to a gray. Here is a picture...

The only problem is that the paint is not resistant to gas (found out the hard way and had to touch it up). I'm having to repaint due to a recent (almost) run in with a SUV... Thruxtons do not make good MX bikes!

Anyone know of a Matte or Satin rattle can clear that is resistant to gas/oil/etc?

Thanks.

 

[DJ_AX]

I just bought some yesterday!
They had it at my local hardware store. ACO

 

[AlphaDogChoppers]

Whatever you try, do a test first. If your paint is ruined by gasoline, It might be destroyed by the clear you put on to protect it. Some paints, if not totally cured, (which can take up to two years,) will react to some overcoats as if they are paint stripper.

Ever put lacquer over top of enamel? Bad mojo.

 

[jsharpphoto]

Using engine enamel clear coat to increase fuel resistance is kind of a urban legend. For the engine "fuel and oil resistant" paints and clears to work, they have to be cured at temperatures of 200+ degrees. Normally, that happens naturally when you run your freshly painted engine.

Unless you're going to put your gas tank in the oven for a while, engine enamel will react the same as regular enamel.

Your best bet is to use the spraymax 2k clear, and wet sand with 1500-2000 to dull it up.

 

[carnivorous chicken]

Try POR-15 Pelucid. Gas proof clear coat, in spray on or brush on. It's pricey ($30 for 15 oz of spray), but worth it.

 

[GySchmit]

Won't be able to wet sand after application. Base Paint will be a Textured finish (think of like a medium rough grit sand paper and you'll have the idea).

Saw some RustOeum Satin or Matte Auto Enamel but don't know if it will be (at least somewhat) gas proof. Anyone know?

 

[AlphaDogChoppers]

If it says, "auto enamel" it will be fuel resistant.
I have used Rustoleum rattle can paints on gas tanks in the past and never had a problem with fuel damaging the paint. They just have to be well cured. Putting the pieces in a car on a sunny day is a good way to cure the paint.

 

[GySchmit]

OK, decided to forgo the clear coat. Figured I'll just keep doing what I've been doing for the past year.... pull up to pump, put bike on side stand, get nozzle and lay it on the ground, pay for gas, pick up nozzle and move over tank with free hand under spout, gas up, pull nozzle out from tank straight till I can get free hand under to catch any left over gas drips.

Side covers are stripped and ready to paint. Working on final sanding on tank to bondo up two small dents (one from a previous spill and one factory dent under the right hand badge (have to do this one now as I'm going badgeless). Waiting on seat cowl to arrive so I can prep it.

Now my question. Going to be putting offset stripes down the tank and seat cowl... and possibly side covers (still undecided on these).... like this

2" wide stripe and 1/8" thin stripe. Having never stripped before I'm wondering a few things.

I'm guessing the easiest way to line up the stripes on the Tank & Cowl would be to put them "together" (cowl behind tank as close as possible. This should line them up so they are appropriate equal off center. but my biggest concern is the curvatures of these parts... not so much with the 1/8 stripe but more so with the 2". If I just lay the tape it is going to follow the curve of the tank on one edge and the other will be "kinked".

Is there a trick to getting it to lay straight?

Do I run the 2" down the flat part of the tank, bring it straight down one side of the curve, then cut the access off and use the 1/8" to bring that side down straight and fill in the middle with cut pieces?

Need some expert hep here.

 

[bikeboy]

2" wide stripe and 1/8" thin stripe. Having never stripped before I'm wondering a few things.

I'm guessing the easiest way to line up the stripes on the Tank & Cowl would be to put them "together" (cowl behind tank as close as possible. This should line them up so they are appropriate equal off center. but my biggest concern is the curvatures of these parts... not so much with the 1/8 stripe but more so with the 2". If I just lay the tape it is going to follow the curve of the tank on one edge and the other will be "kinked".

Is there a trick to getting it to lay straight?

<disclaimer>I'm not an expert, but I play one on the internet ;-)</disclaimer>
I would run a strip of 2" tape where you want the paint to be, from the tank down over the cowl. Easier to line it up if it's a continuos stripe. This will be your 'guide'. Once you have this located it's just a matter of taping up to the edge of the 'guide' tape and mask the tank. You then remove the 'guide' tape to expose the stripe area. You can use the same process to locate and mask the thinner stripe. If you do it this way you'll get two straight, evenly spaced parallel stripes.

I've seen Chip Foose do this many times, and that guy knows about stripes ;-)

Nice bike by the way.

cheers
ian

 

[GySchmit]

Nice bike by the way.

cheers
ian

Thanks, but old photo. Most recent photo - :'(

Following Parts on order (* = Received) -

From Dime City Cycle
Progressive Vintage “412 Series” Gas Charged Shocks (spring Caps being removed!) *
Progressive Front Springs *
Universal GP Style Aluminum Foot Pegs (2 sets) *
Discrete British Customs Brake Reservoir *
7 Way Adjustable Steering Damper *
Slim Clear LED Cats Eye Taillight *

From Old School Helmets
Custom Paint Bell 500 Matte Black Helmet and Visor

From British Customs
Billet Headlight Ears (Black, pair)
Ignition Key Relocation Bracket (Black)

From Lossa Engineering
Reverse Cone Muffler2 (mini - 12") (mounted to modified OEM Headers ala TT)

From Triumph USA
Fork Legs, L & R
Thruxton Seat
Seat Cowl
Headlight Bucket
Headlight Ring

Extra set of headers and Heatshield Lava Wrap dropped off at mechanic to remove cross over pipe, cut down & re-bend to mount Lossa RC Mufflers TT Style.

As soon as parts come in and he starts tearing apart the bike I'll be heading up there to take out the Resonator Plate from the air box. Will also be pulling the Chain Guard to strip and Drill then Clear Coat to match Sprocket Cover/Foot Guard. Rectifier will also be located to frame (where OEM Horn was (that has already been relocated to under tank)). Licence being relocated to left side swing arm to get rid of rear fender and clean up rear end.

Bike will actually come out of the crash better equipted then when he went in. 8)

 

[RumRunner]

Glad she's coming alone, looking good.