my 1971 CB750 project...
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noodles
Active Member
@Surfly - decided its gonna be twin 17" or 18"... whichever I find first. Would prefer polished alloy rims and gunmetal powder coated spokes.
I'm working on a sketch of the paint scheme, I have a rough one I did with some highlighters at work last week on the fly I'll upload now - but I'll do a nicer one when I actually get some colored pencils.
I'm working on a sketch of the paint scheme, I have a rough one I did with some highlighters at work last week on the fly I'll upload now - but I'll do a nicer one when I actually get some colored pencils.
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noodles
Active Member
Just an update on the build:
Looks like for now the paint will just be flat black till I make up my mind.
The wheels seem to haunt me still. The dual 18" seems problematic without building new wheels - which frankly I may decide against later. So, I'm trying to get my hands on a original Honda 18" rear alloy wheel for the rear and leave the current 19". Anyone have one they wanna part with? If not, I'm just gonna pick some suitable tires for this young lady with the rims I have on her now and move on, its not a deal breaker for me. Get some miles on her and see wassup!
As far as the oil lines: I could go either way with this. But since the brake lines will be stainless, maybe the oil lines should as well to match. So, stainless it is. Now atleast the carbs are straight forward. They have been rebuilt and look good with the new pods. Hopefully they perform just as well.
Regarding the tail section: the continuous tube all the way around was not my first intention or my preferred look, but I am not apposed to it. As long as the tail section is structurally sound and can handle bags for long trips or the occasional rider I'm ok with this look.
The next big tackle will be the triple trees, gonna mill down and cleaning up the triple tree tops and go with a low profile Trailtek tac/speedo ...
...the saga continues.
Looks like for now the paint will just be flat black till I make up my mind.
The wheels seem to haunt me still. The dual 18" seems problematic without building new wheels - which frankly I may decide against later. So, I'm trying to get my hands on a original Honda 18" rear alloy wheel for the rear and leave the current 19". Anyone have one they wanna part with? If not, I'm just gonna pick some suitable tires for this young lady with the rims I have on her now and move on, its not a deal breaker for me. Get some miles on her and see wassup!
As far as the oil lines: I could go either way with this. But since the brake lines will be stainless, maybe the oil lines should as well to match. So, stainless it is. Now atleast the carbs are straight forward. They have been rebuilt and look good with the new pods. Hopefully they perform just as well.
Regarding the tail section: the continuous tube all the way around was not my first intention or my preferred look, but I am not apposed to it. As long as the tail section is structurally sound and can handle bags for long trips or the occasional rider I'm ok with this look.
The next big tackle will be the triple trees, gonna mill down and cleaning up the triple tree tops and go with a low profile Trailtek tac/speedo ...
...the saga continues.
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StrangeXJ86
Active Member
subscribed!
noodles
Active Member
Tryna decide on final seat and tank placement...
Looks like Wrenchmonkees original seat in the position may be a lil "tight". When everything is aligned as they have it the measurements I get (as in the picture)
A-B 9"
B-C 7"
C-D 6
In the Wrenchmonkees bike there is no extension of the rear frame. It is likely that they just cap off the ends and in one picture it almost looks like the turn signals were in the end section. If this is the way I go we'll make a pan for underneath the seat cowl to hold much of the electricals. We can cap off and reinforce the frame.
In another picture the A-B distance is 11"
The gas tank is going to need to be trimmed near the frame neck in order for it to fit flat on the frame. In some of the pictures you can see where the frame and tank hit needs to be cut. Fortunately there is plenty material in the tabs without compromising the tank.
Again if anyone has access to a rear alloy 18" rim for a Honda... hit me up please before I go and pay to have one made $-)
Looks like Wrenchmonkees original seat in the position may be a lil "tight". When everything is aligned as they have it the measurements I get (as in the picture)
A-B 9"
B-C 7"
C-D 6
In the Wrenchmonkees bike there is no extension of the rear frame. It is likely that they just cap off the ends and in one picture it almost looks like the turn signals were in the end section. If this is the way I go we'll make a pan for underneath the seat cowl to hold much of the electricals. We can cap off and reinforce the frame.
In another picture the A-B distance is 11"
The gas tank is going to need to be trimmed near the frame neck in order for it to fit flat on the frame. In some of the pictures you can see where the frame and tank hit needs to be cut. Fortunately there is plenty material in the tabs without compromising the tank.
Again if anyone has access to a rear alloy 18" rim for a Honda... hit me up please before I go and pay to have one made $-)
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That central oil tank is nicely done. I hope you are planning on rubber mounting it to prevent cracks.
On the wheel dilemma, the first question is what size you want and what size will fit. I like 18" rims because they look "right" to me, but that's your first decision followed by what tire will fit between the foks or swingarm. Then you will see form the tire suppliers site what rims you'll need.
Let's say you want 18" and at the front let's say a 100 section will fit, so you want a rim that fits that 100 section tire which might be 2.15 or 2.50" Try to avoid going too wide. At the rear let's say 130-18 which would need a 3.00 or larger rim.
Check out places like mikesxs.com for rims. They are unlikely to have both that you want, but even one at those prices could be a huge saving. I'd suggest unpolished Stainless steel spokes from Buchanan and lace and true the wheels in hose to save some serious dollars. If time is more constrained than dollars, ship the hubs to Buchanan and have them supply a built wheel.
On the wheel dilemma, the first question is what size you want and what size will fit. I like 18" rims because they look "right" to me, but that's your first decision followed by what tire will fit between the foks or swingarm. Then you will see form the tire suppliers site what rims you'll need.
Let's say you want 18" and at the front let's say a 100 section will fit, so you want a rim that fits that 100 section tire which might be 2.15 or 2.50" Try to avoid going too wide. At the rear let's say 130-18 which would need a 3.00 or larger rim.
Check out places like mikesxs.com for rims. They are unlikely to have both that you want, but even one at those prices could be a huge saving. I'd suggest unpolished Stainless steel spokes from Buchanan and lace and true the wheels in hose to save some serious dollars. If time is more constrained than dollars, ship the hubs to Buchanan and have them supply a built wheel.
noodles
Active Member
Agreed, the central oil tank wasn't my first thought but I'm very happy with it now and the fear of "hot buns" on long rides are certainly less of a concern now that the oil tank won't be in the rear seat cowl. We will be rubber mounting it.
On the wheel dilemma, I agree with you completely matching 18" rims just look "right" on these bikes. And Buchanan is a great resource, I've seen their work - very nice and will probably end up with their powder coated steel spokes. But I really hoped to find original Honda rims and not have to have some built. These CB's get modified so much, it would be nice to be able to say its as "Honda" as my aesthetic ghosts would allow...
The front end is a stock 1975 GL1000 complete including the 19" rim. Suffice to say I am willing to keep that as-is and only find an appropriate 18" rear rim. Visually a 19" front won't differ that greatly, especially if the rear 18" has a lil more rubber to it.
At present I have a 16" steel Harley rim on the rear at rear 5.00/5.10 /16 so there is plenty room to go wide on the rear.
I'm not a purist type and I don't get set on things as I work em out, I try to let aesthetics, availability of parts and mechanical sense determine my approach I guess. I'll check out what's available for tires at the site you mentioned. I'm still wavering on with whitewalls or without. Thanks for the info!
On the wheel dilemma, I agree with you completely matching 18" rims just look "right" on these bikes. And Buchanan is a great resource, I've seen their work - very nice and will probably end up with their powder coated steel spokes. But I really hoped to find original Honda rims and not have to have some built. These CB's get modified so much, it would be nice to be able to say its as "Honda" as my aesthetic ghosts would allow...
The front end is a stock 1975 GL1000 complete including the 19" rim. Suffice to say I am willing to keep that as-is and only find an appropriate 18" rear rim. Visually a 19" front won't differ that greatly, especially if the rear 18" has a lil more rubber to it.
At present I have a 16" steel Harley rim on the rear at rear 5.00/5.10 /16 so there is plenty room to go wide on the rear.
I'm not a purist type and I don't get set on things as I work em out, I try to let aesthetics, availability of parts and mechanical sense determine my approach I guess. I'll check out what's available for tires at the site you mentioned. I'm still wavering on with whitewalls or without. Thanks for the info!
noodles
Active Member
Well, we received the headlight and fender, a Hand-made Aluminum RocCity Cafe Racer Front Fender and a 7" Chrome Classic British Style Headlight Assembly. Will adapt a honda fender bracket to accommodate this new fender.
We removed the side covers from the engine to clean them and deal with oil leaks, see pictures, hope to have them polished and replaced this week. New gaskets and misc items.
There are some picture of before and after soda blasting the carb intakes, The engine is in need of a good cleaning but short of taking it out, it will be hard to do. If I can't get the mechanicals all sorted by May 1st so I can do my cross country birthday ride in June I won't bother painting her yet and so removing the engine for cleaning is a low priority for me at this stage. Most of the cylinder paint is ready to come off.
Once we got the covers off, the wiring from the alternator, not good, but repairable. No new pics the tank on the bike, because I will have to remove more fiberglass to make it fit properly ( did not take enough off, trying to be conservative in my cutting and trimming).
As for the tires/wheels, looks like its gonna be Avons 120/90X 18 rear, 100/90X19 fronts.
Working on the grinding down of the top of the triple tree and the electricals this week.
Thats all for now
We removed the side covers from the engine to clean them and deal with oil leaks, see pictures, hope to have them polished and replaced this week. New gaskets and misc items.
There are some picture of before and after soda blasting the carb intakes, The engine is in need of a good cleaning but short of taking it out, it will be hard to do. If I can't get the mechanicals all sorted by May 1st so I can do my cross country birthday ride in June I won't bother painting her yet and so removing the engine for cleaning is a low priority for me at this stage. Most of the cylinder paint is ready to come off.
Once we got the covers off, the wiring from the alternator, not good, but repairable. No new pics the tank on the bike, because I will have to remove more fiberglass to make it fit properly ( did not take enough off, trying to be conservative in my cutting and trimming).
As for the tires/wheels, looks like its gonna be Avons 120/90X 18 rear, 100/90X19 fronts.
Working on the grinding down of the top of the triple tree and the electricals this week.
Thats all for now
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noodles
Active Member
Quick update, no pics today but,....
I saw these and I'm considering it: http://www.bikeseatsdirect.com/1969-1976-honda-cb750-k0-k6-engine-guard-bar-stainless/
They look pretty slick even tho I'm not a huge fan of shiny parts, but I could always do a satin finis on em. Engine guards are always good if you think you will drop the bike - which I won't lie, on a wide open road with no one else on it...I been known to "try" stuff.
But they would take away from the clean look of the engine. This weekend was spent polishing parts, ordering SS bolts for the reassembly, planning the placement of the electrical, and the final positioning of the oil tank. This weekend we hope to finish the triple tree, and reassemble the side covers for the engine, final fit on the tank, and take pictures.
When this bike is done I'm riding it from Boston to Cali for my bday... I seriously can't wait.
I saw these and I'm considering it: http://www.bikeseatsdirect.com/1969-1976-honda-cb750-k0-k6-engine-guard-bar-stainless/
They look pretty slick even tho I'm not a huge fan of shiny parts, but I could always do a satin finis on em. Engine guards are always good if you think you will drop the bike - which I won't lie, on a wide open road with no one else on it...I been known to "try" stuff.
But they would take away from the clean look of the engine. This weekend was spent polishing parts, ordering SS bolts for the reassembly, planning the placement of the electrical, and the final positioning of the oil tank. This weekend we hope to finish the triple tree, and reassemble the side covers for the engine, final fit on the tank, and take pictures.
When this bike is done I'm riding it from Boston to Cali for my bday... I seriously can't wait.
Mugen_Stumpo
New Member
noodles said:
OMG
this thing looked great... 70's at it's best 8)
noodles
Active Member
Here is what has been done and what is happening, the and the
1. new brake line on and looks good, have to replace the line from the master cylinder to the splitter because it itnerfeers with the light
2. Tank cut down and fits fine, I have not taken a picture of it on the bike.
3. started to do the electricals.
4. Problem with the accell coils, they do not fit under the tank because they are too wide. I can mount them sideways but then might have to lengthen on set of wires. Alternative is to go back with the stock coils...not gonna happen!
5. received the ss hardware for the side covers and valve cover. I took one of the bolts out of the valve cover and it was covered with crap. Not sure what it is but it should be cleaned if and when the engine is removed.
6. Triple tree top is almost done.
7. was about to cut and weld the reinforcing tube, but the tubing notcher at the shop walked, will have to find another one (this week)
8. oil tank mounted beautifully, but would be better if it were shock mounted. going to get the appropriate size rubber grommets for it. Will also prime the tank to prevent it from getting surface rust. then plum it in.
9. Finishing up polishing the covers.
More to come this weekend
and the 1. new brake line on and looks good, have to replace the line from the master cylinder to the splitter because it itnerfeers with the light
2. Tank cut down and fits fine, I have not taken a picture of it on the bike.
3. started to do the electricals.
4. Problem with the accell coils, they do not fit under the tank because they are too wide. I can mount them sideways but then might have to lengthen on set of wires. Alternative is to go back with the stock coils...not gonna happen!
5. received the ss hardware for the side covers and valve cover. I took one of the bolts out of the valve cover and it was covered with crap. Not sure what it is but it should be cleaned if and when the engine is removed.
6. Triple tree top is almost done.
7. was about to cut and weld the reinforcing tube, but the tubing notcher at the shop walked, will have to find another one (this week)
8. oil tank mounted beautifully, but would be better if it were shock mounted. going to get the appropriate size rubber grommets for it. Will also prime the tank to prevent it from getting surface rust. then plum it in.
9. Finishing up polishing the covers.
More to come this weekend
noodles
Active Member
did some fitting of the tank seat combo and got a good feeling as to how the geometry looks and works.
1. The front fender stay from the cb750 fender will not work on the GL front fork but found a trashed gl1000 fender that we can use.
2. The frame reinforcements are all fabricated and they will be welded on now that the the seat configuration is a set. After which we can make the under seat pan and the upper seat pan.
3. Started to do the wiring, which at this point involves shortening many of the cables from the handlebars to and from the headlights.
next steps
1. build seat pans and finish welding
2. put side covers with new hardware
3. prime oil tank (to prevent surface rust)
4. cut and fit lines for oil tank.
5. work on electricals.
1. The front fender stay from the cb750 fender will not work on the GL front fork but found a trashed gl1000 fender that we can use.
2. The frame reinforcements are all fabricated and they will be welded on now that the the seat configuration is a set. After which we can make the under seat pan and the upper seat pan.
3. Started to do the wiring, which at this point involves shortening many of the cables from the handlebars to and from the headlights.
next steps
1. build seat pans and finish welding
2. put side covers with new hardware
3. prime oil tank (to prevent surface rust)
4. cut and fit lines for oil tank.
5. work on electricals.
Attachments
MJPriceisright
Coast to Coast
nice man doing some good work here. excited to see how it comes along with that tank and seat combo.
noodles
Active Member
The bike is progressing. The tires came in, mounted and installed. The electricals are coming along. just trying to determine how to tuck away all the wiring in headlight region and make it look good. We have to order the speedo/tac, most likely trailtech (http://trailtech.net/vapor.html) in the stealth (black).
The carbs are on and cabled to the throttle. Front brakes are done. Front donor fender arrived and will be mounted. Tank was trimmed to fit the throttle cables and electrical lines. Issues: The new o-ring chain I had will not work because its too wide, it will cut into the engine casing, so another chain is on order.
Got a call in to the upholsterer for the seat.
Tomorrow, the valves get adjusted, electricals get worked on, oil tank is on (not permanently, still want to do shock mounts) with most of the hose made except for the trimming of the tabs.
Hope to have a majority of the mechanical parts done, by the weekend. Need to next is to organize the electricals under the seat, mount the seat and tank. Test the electricals. make a pinch list of issues, deal with that list, then start and test the machine.
The carbs are on and cabled to the throttle. Front brakes are done. Front donor fender arrived and will be mounted. Tank was trimmed to fit the throttle cables and electrical lines. Issues: The new o-ring chain I had will not work because its too wide, it will cut into the engine casing, so another chain is on order.
Got a call in to the upholsterer for the seat.
Tomorrow, the valves get adjusted, electricals get worked on, oil tank is on (not permanently, still want to do shock mounts) with most of the hose made except for the trimming of the tabs.
Hope to have a majority of the mechanical parts done, by the weekend. Need to next is to organize the electricals under the seat, mount the seat and tank. Test the electricals. make a pinch list of issues, deal with that list, then start and test the machine.
