My 1978 Honda CB750 K8 cafe project

Great score on those Alphabet air cleaners. They are truly vintage 70s and a rare item these days.
 
UnCrash said:
Wow, they're beautiful!

Now, do they work? Better than pods? ;D

I haven't gotten a chance to ride with these on yet. They just happened to always be on for mock up when I had the camera handy. In theory, they should work better than the Uni Filters I had on before. Here's what a CB750 expert from another forum emailed to me when I asked:

[me]: "I am now running your ignition kit, used points (they looked okay to me, but I may put new ones in before spring), condensers unplugged, Dyna 3 ohm coils with your resistor kit, new NKG plugs with new MSD wires, stock carbs, cam and pistons, Uni foam pod filters, Kerker exhaust with Competition baffled megaphone.... For tuning purposes (so I know I've got everything dialed in right) what peak RPM should I be able to attain with my current set up? Mind you, I'm not racing the thing, and will probably rarely see the RPM ceiling; I just like my bike tuned up as close to perfect as possible."

[him (Hondaman)]: "The RPM range with your setup is probably close to stock, if your Uni filters are the individual pod type. The reason: the loss of the velocity stacks will cause a significant flat spot right around 4500 RPM, and the Kerker pipe starts working right about there, so they sort of balance each other out. If, instead, you had a stock airbox with its velocity stacks, and a K&N (or even paper filter), the flow would be more even through that range and the pipe could do more good in the 7000+ RPM range. Pods hurt these bikes in all but WOT situations. I've tried to bring that up on threads, but everyone wants to argue about it instead of trying it out on a dyno, like we did. Dynos don't lie....

With the Alphabet cleaners, the rubber boot that connects the cleaner to the carbs is about the same length as the rubber boots that connect the stock air cleaner. I've already shaved the tabs off that hold the stock air cleaner, so there's no going back to that.....I'm saving some weight anyway without the black box.
 
You can see in the background that my once cafe'd CX500 has been "un"-cafe'd to serve more of a commuter/light touring duty.
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NNNNOOOOOOOOO

That bike looked amazing. Im sure the 750 will look great as well. Funny how we have the same bikes huh.lol
 
Hinz said:
More pics!!!

Here's what the shaved handlebar clamp ended up looking like. I took a pic of the bottom where you can see how the bottom clamp is hollow in the middle which is why I didn't shave the thing flat.

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And here's a pic of the sprocket cover and clutch cover drilled out.

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I just got the frame and stuff back from the sandblaster yesterday and immediately dropped all the stuff off at the powdercoater's. I'll take more pics of that stuff when I get them back.
 
Going to be a sweet bike when your done,congrats on all the hard work you have put into the project. 8)
 
thanks for the pics!
I'm thinkin I may shave the mounts too and mount my indicator lights on what's left.
 
Well, I've come across my first major setback. I attempted to clean/strip the engine by bead blasting it in my driveway. NEVER DO THIS!! The glass bead got everywhere, including areas I didn't expect, like inside the crankcase. Based on my research, leaving the glass beads in there will cause significant wear on my engine internals. So, I have to split the case and COMPLETELY tear down the the entire engine all the way to the last cotter pin (no cotter pins in there, but you get my drift). Each part will have to be cleaned in warm soapy water, thoroughly rinsed with a garden hose or pressure washer, then cleaned again in solvent.

I've never taken an engine apart before.
 
Don't worry these motors are as easy as they come. I say if you have a pulse and can read the manual you're in good shape.

I like that fork brace - and those old sohc's need it. They tend to wallow some if pushed hard in a big sweeper. The classic "hinge in the middle"
 
So this is what you've been up to. Can't wait to see the finished product. Let's pray for some warm weather. I need to get back onto two wheels!
 
Kuyarico said:
So this is what you've been up to. Can't wait to see the finished product. Let's pray for some warm weather. I need to get back onto two wheels!

Kuyarico! Good to hear from you. Didn't hear much from you in the later half of last year's riding season; nice to hear you are still around.

Yes, my CB has been a handful so far. The CX was a much easier build, and a lot more forgiving to the novice mechanic. I'm hoping the CB will be done before spring this year.

Here's more pics on the progress:

Below -gutted engine block on engine stand getting clear coat (Eastwood's Extreme clear -1 day to dry, 7 days to fully cure). I have most of the internals on my basement floor after being washed in the utility sink.

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Next -poweder coated frame. I'm planning to leave it naked for now until I get the engine put back together. Then I can lay the engine on its side and slide the frame over it. Tilt everything upright, then I can get stands under it for reassembly.

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If everything goes according to schedule, I should be able to put the engine together next week (need to wait for clear coat to fully cure). In the meantime, I'll be putting new bullet connectors throughout my whole wiring harness.

Kuyarico, just give me a call when you're ready to ride this year. If my CB is not done in time, I might have to re-cafe the CX.
 
Man that's looking great! It's going to be awesome in the end. We'll definitely have to get together when it gets warmer. Peace bro....
 
Some progress:

Getting engine put back together. I believe I got the internals all in there correctly, but I had to do some research online to determine the best choice for a sealant to apply between the cases before buttoning it all up.

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Although my intention was to keep the frame bare until I get the engine back in, I couldn't resist. I threw on the tank and solo seat. Now I have something to stare at while I contemplate a paint scheme. It actually doesn't look bad keeping it white.

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I'm also gonna be going with braided oil lines with AN style fittings.

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I like the oil lines, where did you get those? The tank is nice too, where did you get that and how much? Great build! -MBS
 
MBS said:
I like the oil lines, where did you get those? The tank is nice too, where did you get that and how much? Great build! -MBS

I made the oil lines using the original connectors (had to separate them from the original hose then painted them with that Anodized colored paint). The AN style clamps and braided hose I got from Summit Racing...can't remember the size; I just brought the original fittings to Summit (about a 45 min drive for me) and bought whatever hose would fit.

I stumbled upon the tank on Ebay one night. It was only up for an hour before I hit the Buy It Now button. It set me back about $350.
 
Progress!

Got the engine back into the frame:

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Also put the wiring harness back in so I can start the newly rebuilt motor to check for oil leaks (and to make sure it works like it should). It was 3am when I got it all back together, but forgot I needed a new oil filter (old filter was sitting out when I glass beaded the block -got glass beads in it). No stores open that late, so I'll be picking up oil filter today.

Here's some more pics of the reassembly. Hopefully, the motor is good to go, and I won't have to take all this crap off again:

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Very nice lines, and everything seems to all make sense. I also like the idea of white, and perhaps continuing the two black stripes on the tank and front fender (is there going to be a front fender?). It's nice to see something that is very elegant and straightforward, though I'm sure a ton of work has gone into the project to make all come together.

I think that's the thing about 'Specials' -- it can threaten to get out of control and devolve into a jumbled mess if you don't have a plan. Just look at my 'Japan Meets Britain', and at a certain point one needs to know when to stop.
 
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