My DIY Cafe Racer tank is getting there at last.

[gt alex]

If you plan to use a tank sealer, do so before painting. And all of the Bondo - type fillers say to apply to bare metal.

Thanks I am unsure about the best way.
Bog on bare metal is sort of old school because moisture can still be a problem, so it's often used on epoxy primer now but many fiberglass fillers are water proof.
Maybe I will skip the fiberglass filler once painted with epoxy.
I might do most the prep and finish painting after the sealer?
As you know this is not my forte so if there is a flaw in the plane please let me know

 

[gt alex]

Still going, I have been out of shield gas for a while and rather than wait another couple of weeks to save up.
I decided to use the gasless mig I bought cheap a while ago.
To give the petcock and sender something flat to seal with, I made 2 plates of 5mm plates.
I decided not to put holes it the tank before welding them on, and I drilled taped and plug welded the back side to make the studs leak proof.
Despite my ugly welds I leak tested them by pouring solvent it the hole in the center of each plate. There was 1 leak which I ground down and re-welded.
Because the seat goes forward then clips back I trimmed the sides of the recess for easier welding, the plan was to weld those bits back on, its only a 10mm gap in front of the seat but now I'm thinking of leaving it.
Compare with the picture above.
What do other think gap or no gap?

 

[pidjones]

Upholstery rubbing against steel will go through surprisingly quick. If you expect the seat to be removed often (what will it need off for, electrics access?), make it easy.

 

[gt alex]

Upholstery rubbing against steel will go through surprisingly quick. If you expect the seat to be removed often (what will it need off for, electrics access?), make it easy.

I don't think it will touch with just a little care fitting and removing the seat.
The seat comes off for any access to electrics or any time the tank is lifted.