So I got the bug and I went ahead and splashed out on a second bike... A US imported GS450T that I want to make to my taste. Bearing in mind that I've never really done any mechanical work but I've got the willingness to have a go I thought I'd start with the "simple" task of fitting clip ons...
My first ever project: GS450T
- Thread starter dukeninja
- Start date
Hiccups so far
So I've put the top triple tree back on and bolted the headlamp back on. Problems so far:
The headlamp brackets have channels in them, making a reverse fit and angle adjustments harder.
As the headlamp now sits lower down, there is no slack in the wires that go to the instrument cluster.
As expected, the clutch is much hard to operate.
The front brake master cylinder/brake cable exit from it is too long, therefore it looks like I'm not gonna be able to keep the clip on angle I want unless I replace the MC.
The throttle assembly is slightly too big for my clip ons, and it didn't have any studs to help locate the on the bar.
Any suggestions would be greatly received guys. Thanks.
So I've put the top triple tree back on and bolted the headlamp back on. Problems so far:
The headlamp brackets have channels in them, making a reverse fit and angle adjustments harder.
As the headlamp now sits lower down, there is no slack in the wires that go to the instrument cluster.
As expected, the clutch is much hard to operate.
The front brake master cylinder/brake cable exit from it is too long, therefore it looks like I'm not gonna be able to keep the clip on angle I want unless I replace the MC.
The throttle assembly is slightly too big for my clip ons, and it didn't have any studs to help locate the on the bar.
Any suggestions would be greatly received guys. Thanks.
gk45011
Coast to Coast
I too have my clip ons on top of the tree or maybe thats just how it appears). I have aftermarket guages and my brake res. is all the way against my right hand guage. Very unlikely even lowering your factory guages you will be able to clear the guage cluster. Have you thought of a single guage setup centered? or aftermarket guages?
Have you looked at lowering your guage mounts to help with the wire length temporarily?
My throttle assembly worked fine. I am confused with what issues you are having there ???
As for the clutch and throttle cables they can be had cheap OEM for an E or S model. They are the perfect length foryour aplication. I know people who have rerouted their cables, but it is unlikely you will get proper function and adjustment with the long factory versions.
I had a customer stainless braided brake line made for the front brake at 29". A little extra slack and looks and will function much better. I also intend to eventually drill my front rotor or replace it for a drilled rotor.
Have you looked at lowering your guage mounts to help with the wire length temporarily?
My throttle assembly worked fine. I am confused with what issues you are having there ???
As for the clutch and throttle cables they can be had cheap OEM for an E or S model. They are the perfect length foryour aplication. I know people who have rerouted their cables, but it is unlikely you will get proper function and adjustment with the long factory versions.
I had a customer stainless braided brake line made for the front brake at 29". A little extra slack and looks and will function much better. I also intend to eventually drill my front rotor or replace it for a drilled rotor.
SeanGSUK
Strength is measured in tolerance, not mass
Hi, I have a GS too and with clip ons. I bought a cable repair kit which included two cables and a number of 'nipples', I shortened the clutch and throttle cables myself and used the nipples to attach the cut ends.
The kit is here, you can buy just the nipples but the kit is better value:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-MOTORBIKE-EMERGENCY-THROTTLE-CLUTCH-CABLE-REPAIR-KIT-TOOL-/181060311021?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2a280917ed
My friend is a restorer of old Brit bikes, (uses a 1958 Panther as his daily commuter) he always uses these kits to make his own cables and says he has never had one fail. Mine is holding up well too.
Re; brake lines you may need to make one or call Goodridge or Hell who will make one for you. Some farm vehicle maintenance shops have braided hoses of various lengths. I have one going if you have a spare fiver I will post it to you. Not Goodridge but still good quality braided. Send me a PM if interested.
I remounted my gauges under the mount on the yoke and used some spacers to reduce the distance in the cables.
You could buy some universal headlight clamps, may save you some headaches?
Good luck, good to see another GS build in the UK.
The kit is here, you can buy just the nipples but the kit is better value:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-MOTORBIKE-EMERGENCY-THROTTLE-CLUTCH-CABLE-REPAIR-KIT-TOOL-/181060311021?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2a280917ed
My friend is a restorer of old Brit bikes, (uses a 1958 Panther as his daily commuter) he always uses these kits to make his own cables and says he has never had one fail. Mine is holding up well too.
Re; brake lines you may need to make one or call Goodridge or Hell who will make one for you. Some farm vehicle maintenance shops have braided hoses of various lengths. I have one going if you have a spare fiver I will post it to you. Not Goodridge but still good quality braided. Send me a PM if interested.
I remounted my gauges under the mount on the yoke and used some spacers to reduce the distance in the cables.
You could buy some universal headlight clamps, may save you some headaches?
Good luck, good to see another GS build in the UK.
I flipped the headlight brackets on my gs450 and mounted the clocks to the underside of the top yoke. Looks a lot better and had no problems with the loom but as I'm using straight bars, the clutch cable wanted to run where the ignition switch is so had to relocate that. As you're using clip-ons, you should be ok.
The repair kits SeanGSUK mentioned work well but it's not that difficult to solder the ends onto cables, check out YouTube. If you're careful, it is possible to reuse the original ends and make sure you splay the cables ends.
The repair kits SeanGSUK mentioned work well but it's not that difficult to solder the ends onto cables, check out YouTube. If you're careful, it is possible to reuse the original ends and make sure you splay the cables ends.
Thanks for your input so far guys. I resorted to taping part of the clip ons to give the switchgear and throttle assemblies something to bite onto. I've decided that I will get some headlight brackets at some point as suggested by Sean. I will probably only keep the speedo and ditch the tachy.
Couple of questions: if I ditch the instrument cluster, what do I do with the wires from the loom?
Similarly, if I get led indicators, how do I get them to flats at the correct rate? And if I decide to ditch them, how do I terminate the wires?
This is how the bike stands now. I've finally removed the drab grab rail.
I'm bidding on some srad gsxr master cylinder and clutch clamp, with of intention of getting some shorty levers.
Thank you!
Couple of questions: if I ditch the instrument cluster, what do I do with the wires from the loom?
Similarly, if I get led indicators, how do I get them to flats at the correct rate? And if I decide to ditch them, how do I terminate the wires?
This is how the bike stands now. I've finally removed the drab grab rail.
I'm bidding on some srad gsxr master cylinder and clutch clamp, with of intention of getting some shorty levers.
Thank you!
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Right, taken the old gal for a spin and adjusted the sweep of the clip ons, and she feels so much fun to ride on! I've lowered the front forks through the top triple tree by about 3cm and even at 60mph she seems stable. Tell you what though, I'm seriously missing my Ninja's twin radial calipers...
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Update
Received these bad boys in the post today, and I had some free time after work before it got dark so I had a go at fitting the clutch lever assembly.
It was a right pita getting the grip off and on again, after having only put it on at the weekend. The new lever assembly fit in perfectly, until I tried to put the switchgear back on... Wouldn't you have known, the latter is too thick and cannot clear the ?mirror mount.
On the plus side, the finish is amazing and there's really good feedback.
Guess I better start hunting for some new switchgear!
Received these bad boys in the post today, and I had some free time after work before it got dark so I had a go at fitting the clutch lever assembly.
It was a right pita getting the grip off and on again, after having only put it on at the weekend. The new lever assembly fit in perfectly, until I tried to put the switchgear back on... Wouldn't you have known, the latter is too thick and cannot clear the ?mirror mount.
On the plus side, the finish is amazing and there's really good feedback.
Guess I better start hunting for some new switchgear!
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Brake lever install
So I decided to attempt replacing the brake lever master cylinder and brake line. I went to the first motor factor shop and this conversation ensued:
Me: Hi. I'm after some banjo bolts.
Them: Some what?
Me: Banjo bolts
Them: Some what now?
And so it ensued at three further shops. Eventually I got hold of some and started out. Got everything done eventually:
Bleeding the brake took a good 100pumps or more. I've got better feel and I'm loving the adjustable functionality.
Cables cables cables, the Bain of my life. Really need to get some appropriate size ones. The throttle seems to be sticking.
As I was finishing up I decided to test the throttle a final time and guess what, it won't fire. It turns over but that's it. I checked the fuel tank and it looks empty. Recalculated my mileage and I must have done at least 150 miles. I'm hoping that's the issue but won't be able to do any more today as I'm working tonight.
Ah and the braided hose is courtesy of SeanGSUK. Thanks mate!
So I decided to attempt replacing the brake lever master cylinder and brake line. I went to the first motor factor shop and this conversation ensued:
Me: Hi. I'm after some banjo bolts.
Them: Some what?
Me: Banjo bolts
Them: Some what now?
And so it ensued at three further shops. Eventually I got hold of some and started out. Got everything done eventually:
Bleeding the brake took a good 100pumps or more. I've got better feel and I'm loving the adjustable functionality.
Cables cables cables, the Bain of my life. Really need to get some appropriate size ones. The throttle seems to be sticking.
As I was finishing up I decided to test the throttle a final time and guess what, it won't fire. It turns over but that's it. I checked the fuel tank and it looks empty. Recalculated my mileage and I must have done at least 150 miles. I'm hoping that's the issue but won't be able to do any more today as I'm working tonight.
Ah and the braided hose is courtesy of SeanGSUK. Thanks mate!
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So I filled her up with petrol, hit the starter button and after a few attempts she started but only to the completely die. Only a fuse. So next job is soldering the previously redundant clutch and brake light wire to where they belong. Not to forget replacing the current fuse system with a waterproof one. Gotta get used to that back brake- ive already had the back end come out of line twice big time. somehow i donk think im a Casey Stoner! Other good events of today-the guy ay the car audio shop is a biker and bike electrician, and he knows an upholsterer. Result me thinks.
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danejurrous
Been Around the Block
Re: Brake lever install
I pretty much had the same thing happen the other day, went into a shop there were three girls working the front counter and asked if they stocked banjo bolts each of the girls looked at each other and shrugged then suggested I try the local guitar shop.....
I kindly suggested they do some research or find another career path.
Keep up the good work man!
dukeninja said:
I pretty much had the same thing happen the other day, went into a shop there were three girls working the front counter and asked if they stocked banjo bolts each of the girls looked at each other and shrugged then suggested I try the local guitar shop.....
I kindly suggested they do some research or find another career path.
Keep up the good work man!
Replacement gear pedal
Took the ol gal for a 200mile round trip today, both motorway and A roads. I estimated my mpg to be between 59-69. I did give her some welly though, trying to find the sweet spot. Seems like there is power up to around 3k, then absolutely nothing until, around 6k. Anyone else notice this?
Problems: oil leak! Yup, was too good to be true. There is an oil leak by the left crankcase cover. After looking at the exploded view on cmsnl I'm guessing it could be the generator cover or clutch cover gasket.
Anyhow, I got my OEM gear lever which I can't wait to install as I've had enough of missing my gear changes whilst racing from café to café
Took the ol gal for a 200mile round trip today, both motorway and A roads. I estimated my mpg to be between 59-69. I did give her some welly though, trying to find the sweet spot. Seems like there is power up to around 3k, then absolutely nothing until, around 6k. Anyone else notice this?
Problems: oil leak! Yup, was too good to be true. There is an oil leak by the left crankcase cover. After looking at the exploded view on cmsnl I'm guessing it could be the generator cover or clutch cover gasket.
Anyhow, I got my OEM gear lever which I can't wait to install as I've had enough of missing my gear changes whilst racing from café to café
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SeanGSUK
Strength is measured in tolerance, not mass
Good progress so far. Best to get the mechanicals straight before working on cosmetics.
I had an oil leak from the clutch push rod seal, seems I'd over filled it causing pressure in the system, once relieved of some of the oil to the right level, no more leak! Hope the braided hose works out for you. New brake and clutch levers look great! I have the cheap Chinese ones, they look great too and seem solid so I am happy with them. I used a clutch bracket from an R6 as I originally had the levers on my R6.
That's good mpg, I've no idea what my 550 does, maybe next time I fill her up I will check.
I moved my clip ons out to about 80 deg, gave a much easier ride. Re: gauges wiring, just disconnect the blocks and leave the looms connector block in place in case you change your mind, easy to put back on. I wouldn't go cutting up your loom, causes more problems than it solves.
I had an oil leak from the clutch push rod seal, seems I'd over filled it causing pressure in the system, once relieved of some of the oil to the right level, no more leak! Hope the braided hose works out for you. New brake and clutch levers look great! I have the cheap Chinese ones, they look great too and seem solid so I am happy with them. I used a clutch bracket from an R6 as I originally had the levers on my R6.
That's good mpg, I've no idea what my 550 does, maybe next time I fill her up I will check.
I moved my clip ons out to about 80 deg, gave a much easier ride. Re: gauges wiring, just disconnect the blocks and leave the looms connector block in place in case you change your mind, easy to put back on. I wouldn't go cutting up your loom, causes more problems than it solves.
SeanGSUK
Strength is measured in tolerance, not mass
I just undid the oil sump plug and let some out. Checked the level again and topped back up to just below max whilst bike was on a level ground. The push rod lever is behind the circular cover next to the gear lever, have a look in there. Or take the sprocket cover off and give what is behind a good clean, run the engine and if you see oil coming from the push rod seal you know it needs replacing. They pop out with a small screwdriver and new one just pushes back in. Check your oil level first though as you should always start with the simplest fix first. Very little dismantling.
