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Nice! I would have liked to have bought either the Jemco's or Swarbrick pipes but couldn't justify the expense, more than I paid for the original bike.
Now I will have the satisfaction of making my own pipes (with a lot of help from Teazer) and they are totally custom.
After a little bit of tweaking this is the pipes I am going be building. I moved the body of the pipe more underneath the engine and I tweaked the header slightly. I sinched the front end down with tiedowns to compress the fork to it's max and there is about 20mm of clearance to the tyre which should be ample. I just have to modify the last cone as it should have a 28mm dia oulet instead of 34mm which is what is on there now.
Now comes the fun part of making it out of sheet metal.
The one thing I am concerned about is with your riding style that you will deck the outter edge of the dwell section under hard cornering or a hard slide of the rear.
John, the pipe patterns are looking good. I have little knowledge about the formula for performance chambers but I do wonder about the large diameter section under the footpeg? I'd do a thorough ground clearance check. I'm thinking along the lines of Zooke here. 22 guage, wow that's pretty thin! Keep up the great work, I always read your updates.
Cheers, 50gary
Ok guys I have the same concern regarding the ground clearance but it doesn't look as bad in real life as it does in the pics. Today I am going to draw it up in autocad and check the lean angle with the suspension fully compressed. Also will do the real world in the garage lean angle test with the suspension compressed as much as possible.
I was about to say that you can use ratchet straps to compress the suspension and just lean it over.
Every rider is different but for me, if you can lean it over 45 deg. With the suspension compressed, you should be good to go.
Did the ratchet straps to compress the suspension and all is well with the lean angle/ground clearance test. Can go way over 45*, tyre was on its edge before the exhaust touches so no worries there.
Now it's time to start cutting out some sheet metal, going to try the tin snip route first if that doesn't work out well I'll have to splash out and get the parts laser cut.
I did a couple of cones by hand for Teaser and to be honest, it was a real pita! (Not his fault) I had to make a few before i was satisfied with something to send him. It ended up being much more difficult than I imagined to minimize laps and gaps, as I'm used to getting pieces from the laser cutter that are perfect and when welding 22 ga. that is a good thing!
Mind you, finding a laser cutter that will do work for a reasonable amount might prove as difficult to find as bridging the gaps on 22 ga. Sheet metal.
The challenge on a cone is you only get one chance to approach that theoretical line, it's not like you can touch it to a belt sander after it is rolled because making it shorter is only going to make it worse for mating it to the next cone.
And to make matters worse, I sent the wrong dimensions for one of the cones and ended up making the right one in house. How difficult can it be to cut a cone, roll it (without slip rolls) and weld it? That was tongue in cheek BTW.
Man, that was a PIA to get one cone right. And to Walms other point, if it's too short it will not fit the next cone and if it's not 100% round the whole thing spirals out of control.
I have a new admiration for people who make great looking exhausts.
I haven't made lots of pipes but the ones I've done have been hand cut from 22ga. I'm far from a great welder and every mistake is magnified when there is even a tiny gap. Next ones will be laser cut for sure.
Well I guess there is a trend going here, get your cones laser cut and rolled at a fab shop ;D I will give it a bit of a go though seeing as I have half a sheet of 22ga here. Appreciate all of the input.
Couldn't resist, I had to weld up the parallel part of my down pipe. I haven't done any gas welding or brazing (aside from on alloy) for years, I think I need a bit more practice.
Looks great to me!
You could roll them yourself with a cheap slip roll from harbor freight but it helps to have mandrels to finish them off. If you have a buddy with a wood lathe though, you can make some pretty cheap that way.
I'm just making the assumption that if you go through the process once, you'll end up doing it a few times. Every fella should have a few sets of pipes hanging in the rafters eh...
Think I will go with the harbor freight slip roll and just go for it I think Teazer has some ideas for more extreme porting for my MK2 motor so definitely will have spare pipes to hang in the garage!
Nice set of mandrels you have there dc, I have a lathe so I guess I'll make up some of my own.
Those mandrels are so necessary when it comes to making sure that both ends of each section are perfectly round. Check out the You Tube video from Jim Lomas to see how they make pipes.
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