Need advice on screw removal (with photo)

Wow. Went and got a manual impact driver and the ez out drill bit. Tried the manual driver first. didn't really have anything to catch on. Tried the drill bit. out in about 4 seconds flat. I'm going to guess the PB Blaster I put on it last night did some work throughout the day but yeah...couldn't have been easier. Thanks to everyone who shared an opinion!

Verdict- Manual impact driver to prevent this in the future. Craftsman version of ez out worked like a charm.
 
Glad it worked out.

My manual impact drivers (cheapie harbor freight and snap-on) only stripped the head further (as if the metal was just too soft), the only option I had was the bit and yeah, only took seconds.

I was having luck with my impact drives until the one problem screw, since I got the extractor bits I haven't even touched the impact drivers and have removed lots of problem screws quickly without effort.
 
Right on! Maybe I need to work on my irrational hatred of EZ outs :)
 
Rich Ard said:
Right on! Maybe I need to work on my irrational hatred of EZ outs :)
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With stuck bolts I've found them to be next to useless as they don't have the strength to break the thread free. When the head of the bolt is just mashed though, they aren't too bad.
 
I hadn't really ever used my Harbor Freight manual impact screwdriver until I tried to remove the side motor covers on the '76 CB360 I picked up. Worked amazingly, didn't mess up a single screw, and broke loose some seriously stuck Phillips fasteners.

However, the heads weren't effed up, fortunately. Right tool for the job, right? Ez-out / reverse drill bit when it barely resembles a fastener, impact driver otherwise, beer always :D
 
Manual impact driver, punches, PB Blaster or Kroil, heat and patience are things all old bike owners need.

Having stripped down many, many old bikes the first thing I do is spray every fastener I want to remove with PB blast and wait a few hours. Next, I try a manual screwdriver and if it does not turn the fastener, I heat it from a propane torch and try again. If that does not work, more heat and then a hammer and manual impact driver. Works 95-100% of the time. For the stubborn, seized, galled and loctitted fasteners that do not come out with an impact driver, then I go to the punch method and as a final resort, drill and use screw extractors.

Glad you finally got it out and do not forget to replace the small seal around your tach drive.
 
It's really common to have problems with impact drivers if you don't first turn them in the direction you want to go
I pretty much always use a flat punch if screw is stuck to re-shape the 'cross', then tap in bit to make sure it'sseated properly (should stay in place)
Then fit impact driver and whack it with a dead-blow mallet.
Using too small a hammer (or if it bounces off) just rounds out screw head
 
Am I glad I found this post after 2 seconds of looking!

I was just taking apart the cases and removing the clutch basket. When removing that oil pump screw I stripped the shit out of it. Now I have all kinds of tool recommendations to get that b!itch out! Thanks guys.

Cant beat this price - http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html
&
This - http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202272968/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=Grabit+Extractor+kit&storeId=10051#.UN6KJrbS3Io

Just from doing some brief reading, seems people break the ez outs a lot. Maybe its impatiences, but that Grabit looks a little more beefy.
 
Update:

So the first screw came out real nicely with the EZ Out.

I had a screw yesterday strip that was the screw for the seat latch. My power impact driver wouldn't take it out, EZ Out didn't work. So I went to the manual impact driver and it worked like a charm. I will say i used my rubber mallet instead of a normal hammer to give it a little more power. Worked like a charm. So i'd say having PB Blaster, power impact, manual impact, and EZ Out on hand is 100% worth it.
 
Grats on success man...

Sadly I bought an Ez out today to take out my bolt and it fuggin snapped off in the bolt...now im kinda lost for ideas.

The only one I got is to JB weld a nut on the top of the bad bolt then stick a socket in there to break it loose. Not sure the JB will stand up to the torque.

Thoughts??
 
JB Weld is highly unlikely to take torque
EZouts always suck, if bolt diameter was too small to take torque, why would a smaller diameter piece wedged into top of seized bolt work?
 
FWIW as a general rule I never touch a Philips head screw on an engine without my manual impact driver. I assume every one is seized and soft as butter. Whoever this 'Philips' guy was and why that screw design became popular is beyond me. Don't have any business on an engine.

What you want is good old Canadian 'Robertson' screws ;)

And I would never consider taking a powered impact driver to a motorcycle engine - there isn't a single nut or bolt I can imagine using one on. Torque wrench is all you need for the biggest nastiest nuts holding a rotor on or the like.
 
Tim said:
FWIW as a general rule I never touch a Philips head screw on an engine without my manual impact driver. I assume every one is seized and soft as butter. Whoever this 'Philips' guy was and why that screw design became popular is beyond me. Don't have any business on an engine.

What you want is good old Canadian 'Robertson' screws ;)

And I would never consider taking a powered impact driver to a motorcycle engine - there isn't a single nut or bolt I can imagine using one on. Torque wrench is all you need for the biggest nastiest nuts holding a rotor on or the like.
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Thats what I thought...so then Im out of ideas :-[

Its the single screw that holds the oil pump on, the bad part is the hole to get down to the screw is maybe 5/8"+ size. Not a whole lot of room to play around...
OilPump.jpg
 
Use a 1/4" drill and carefully drill the head off, you only need to go 1/4" deep
that ISN'T the oil pump, it's centrifugal filter
 
crazypj said:
Use a 1/4" drill and carefully drill the head off, you only need to go 1/4" deep
that ISN'T the oil pump, it's centrifugal filter
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Ok, Ill do that. Wont be using an ez out again tho! Maybe ill try that grabit extractor next...

Oh... ::) Thought I read in my manual thats what that doohickey was...haha
 
If the EZ out is broken off inside the oil filter then your FU@KED! The only way you'll be able to get the oil filter off is to take a hacksaw to it and cut it off................... :eek:
 
Tim said:
FWIW as a general rule I never touch a Philips head screw on an engine without my manual impact driver. I assume every one is seized and soft as butter. Whoever this 'Philips' guy was and why that screw design became popular is beyond me. Don't have any business on an engine.
Click to expand...

The so called philips heads on japanese bikes are actually JIS heads and philips nor posidrive fit them correctly.

You need these
http://www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=138

Still might need an impact driver though
 
Damn, Let us know how you get it out. I'm guessing you don't have a welder. I don't either so I know the frustration. Curious to see if you're able to get it out.
 
The new cobalt drills were not available,'back in the day' we used masonry drills at low speed.
They will drill carbon steel, but, if you overheat them the brazed in tip falls off
Probably work fine with a cordless drill?
 
ksprzk said:
Damn, Let us know how you get it out. I'm guessing you don't have a welder. I don't either so I know the frustration. Curious to see if you're able to get it out.
Click to expand...

I do have a welder...might have to get creative. Didnt have time to mess with it today as I took a day off to go to the flat track :D

Ill post up on how I get that sh!t head out ;)
 
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