Need help w/ Tarozzi rearset install- Dohc cb750k

eric2281

Been Around the Block
How do these mount up? I was under the impression these are bolt-on but today I tried mocking them up and can't quite put my finger on where they're meant to bolt up.

The instructions that came with is more of an exploded-view parts list. Which brings me to my next question/ concern...

The kit doesn't come with the piece that fits over the gear selector spline? Forgive me, I don't know what its called. :p Also, it doesn't have the end link that would be attached to it.

These 2 items aren't shown either on the parts list so I guess my last question is, where do you recommend I get them from? :-[

ART.03-0052.jpg


-pic credit goes to discovolantemoto

Thanks for any help!
 
One of the forum sponsors, Dime City Cycles has the shifter arm.

Just make sure all the dimensions are the same.
 
The 'shifter arm' is one of the easier ones to put your hands on. Most/all rearsets from the 80's on up from sport bikes have the little arms and the splined shafts are mostly all the same.

I grabbed a few sets from swap meets over the years and when the cast aluminum one I got with a current rearset 'kit' cracked (they suck) I swapped out a cast steel one from a production bike.

If you get desperate let me know and I'll dig another one out of my garage and mail it to you.

For the connections, you use 'rod-ends' and clevises. Available at lots of fastener places and if you search here you'll find a link to a shop that sells gazillions of them. But again you can walk into a fastener shop (Brafasco here in Canada) and buy them off the shelf. Thread right onto 6mm threaded rod typically.

You can also modify a stock shifter arm. Just cut it short, file it smooth and drill a hole in it. Same thing on the brake side if you ever need that piece. Many of us use the stock brake mechanism, attaching the rearset linkage to the splined shaft that the pedal used to connect to. Others connect directly from the rearset pedal to the brake drum with an often long and curved rod which ends up flexing. If you do it right you can make it work, but the stock setup is also usually where the brake light switch connects so it's often easier to leave it all in place. Just cut the brake pedal, perhaps heat/bend it if needed, round it off drill a hole and connect your linkage to it.
 
Thanks Gents for the advice. I'll shop DCC for any parts I need, just like I always do. In the past year, I've probably spent close to $1k there.

Tim, I've thought about modifying the old shifter lever too. We'll see how it goes.

Now I just need to figure out exactly where these are supposed to bolt up.
 
I'm still at a loss. The link to send a message to tarozzi isn't working. Also, I don't think the rearsets are meant to be mounted in the passenger peg location.
 
Your diagram you link to indicates the part 010067, which would be analagous to the part number 010020 in the following:
http://www.discovolantemoto.co.uk/tarozzi/model-specific-rearsets/honda-rearsets/honda-cb1100f/prod_819.html
One thing that springs to mind is THIS:
http://www.motocicliveloci.it/images/bimota/art.RB18.jpg
Seems like an expensive bit, but pair them up with universal rear-sets like this fellow "Viet" is selling here on the site, and you've got something a lot like tarozzis for probably a lot less. I'd rather bolt up to some point in the middle of the 'K bike's steel triangle than use brackets. Infinitely variable, as YOU pick the holes and off-set. A frigg of a lot easier than doing the supersport plates. Ask me how I know, ha ha.
But could it be possible that you've just confused the parts and how they fit, or rather that they have confused YOU? Ha ha. That would be a quick fix, once you wrap your head around it. Plenty of people have been confused by the things before.
I know how they fit up on the DOHC supersports, here I will see if I can find a link to that. Hmmm, 1100F.net's search function seems to be busted on the new 'F-ormat. That sucks. I'm sure Glenn will sort it out. Still google dug this up, just by way of illustration:
http://www.cb1100f.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=59345
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/3431/picture0191j.jpg
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/2403/picture001qa.jpg -Looks a lot like what you've got. Best set-up I've seen (other than my home-made forwar position plates modded to rear-sets, with an approximate position of the RAASK plates) would be Raask plates with Tarozzi bits stuck on 'em. That was cool. But bloody expensive I'd bet.

Also, a link to where I know you can find one form of splined arm. Though I hasten to add, the DOHC CB750F/CB900FCB1100F has two different versions of splined arm, as the "rear-set" type, (Euro/Canadian/NON-U.S. models, and the Hondaline "Sport-Kit" package, for U.S. riders who wanted the Euro set-up) the Sport-kit has a smaller spline, or so I am told. Both forms can be bought and sold on the DOHC forums, you'll find better access to the 'K type on the DOHC customs forum

Anyway, Motocicl Velocci Milano sells a little shifter arm, though I think that Tarozzi was supposed to supply replacement parts for their own crap. The best and cheapest alternative I've heard here, is to find an alloy arm that's broken off and shape that to suit your project. Though you could probably shorten the arm itself, I suspect you'll only have one chance to drill the hole. Still, if you can find more brake levers. Thing is, I'm not aware of a place that sells broken parts. Well, fleabay of course. But I mean parts that are ADVERTIZED as broken. Ha ha. Place a want ad on the DOHC forum classifieds.

http://www.motocicliveloci.it/inglese/catalogue/replicabimota_uk.htm

Or you could go for the expensive thing I mentioned up above, and pair it with the right splined arm and then fit the arm to your system with a bushing, maybe even cut the arm to fit the length. Oh, hey, you've got a drum brake. that should make it a heck of a lot easier to sort out. I was visualizing the way I had to grind down and re-drill my supersport splined pivot, and cut and re-braze the pedal with the end telescoped into the arm, and then re-locate the lower bolt hole for the master cylinder, and make them all fit together. Ugh. Should have done the whole mess in steel and then weld it on. In fact, I intend to do that at some point, basically turn my frame into a fancy version of the 'C frame or 'K frame.

Good luck with it, I hope you'll post up some pics. I'm gonna try and find a pic or two of these babies installed, as I think I've seen 'em once or twice.

-S.
 
Back
Top Bottom