Need some help quick. Is this drum still good?
- Thread starter Lowered13
- Start date
Scruffy
West Tennessee
How old are the pads? Pop one out, tap it on the corner of the porch or workbench, see if the glue bond holds. If it does, check the other shoe. If both are good, use them. But don't be surprised if at least one old shoe is bad.
For the low cost of new shoes, I'd replace them. My bike has front and rear brakes, but I only use the rear. I keep fresh shoes in it.
For the low cost of new shoes, I'd replace them. My bike has front and rear brakes, but I only use the rear. I keep fresh shoes in it.
mydlyfkryzis
当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上，你可以道歉后
Let me fill you in on something..I inspected my old rear brake shoes and they looked fine...Earlier this year, I was 1/4 mile from my house, only doing 30, applied the rear brakes and the rear wheel locked up...The lining de-laminated from the shoe and jammed the rear wheel. I did a long screeching, locked up rear wheel stop....I was lucky the road was empty, and I managed to keep the bike upright.
Replace the rear shoes...it's relatively cheap, and you won't have to worry about an unexpected lock up.
I cringe thinking about a few of the places the brakes could of locked, and might of killed me....
Don;t mess around...!!!!
Replace the rear shoes...it's relatively cheap, and you won't have to worry about an unexpected lock up.
I cringe thinking about a few of the places the brakes could of locked, and might of killed me....
Don;t mess around...!!!!
me toobvander said:
it happened to me with front shoes,they came undone as soon as i hit the binders
going about 35,rag-dolled me over the bars inna split second,luckily i had just pulled off the pavement and went down in an orchard.it was a wake-up call never run old shoes specially front
riveted shoes are much safer,but can still break up if old
Scruffy
West Tennessee
That varies by rider. I tighten the nut down on the linkage until the brake shoe just starts to drag, and back it off 2 flats. Ride it about 50-100 feet at a slow speed, testing every few feet. Then I tend to tighten them up a hair and repeat until it "feels right". I want mine to lock up if I look at it funny, which is NOT safe for new or returning riders.
No two bikes are the same, but you want a firm pedal with very little free play, check your book if you have it. There should be lines in the drum cover (brake plate), when you use the rear brake, you ideally want to see no more than 1/4-1/3 of that range traveled. At least, that's how it used to be taught. From there on, only riding it and using the brake will tell you if it is too tight or too loose. And shoes do wear down and need adjusted/reset/lubed from time to time.
No two bikes are the same, but you want a firm pedal with very little free play, check your book if you have it. There should be lines in the drum cover (brake plate), when you use the rear brake, you ideally want to see no more than 1/4-1/3 of that range traveled. At least, that's how it used to be taught. From there on, only riding it and using the brake will tell you if it is too tight or too loose. And shoes do wear down and need adjusted/reset/lubed from time to time.
