New CL100 Owner

grcamna5 said:
This is my little 1981' CB125S w/ the high performance XR/XL185 engine;I'm saving the cosmetics for last,it's just a basic little 'workhorse'.
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Nice. I wish my CL had a kill switch (other than the headlight).


grcamna5 said:
Remember we were posting earlier about your coil getting too hot by using the battery in the bike to set the static timing which may have damaged it internally;the points sit closed like that for too long which can cook it.
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Yes! First I'll make sure the battery's charged, but after that I'll try swapping stuff like the coil, ND point, and rectifier off the XL
 
iatethepeach said:
What kind of fuel economy does the 185 motor achieve?
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I have it set up now w/ an XR200R camshaft,78' CB125S #PD66 stock carb. w/ atomizer plate and custom headpipe fit to a 1971' CB450K #HM319 stock muffler so even though the head has been ported, it's set-up now for touring and fuel mileage and I plan on installing the luggage rack and Krauser 'Starlet' hardbags soon.The mileage is between 70-80mpg and it will achieve more when i keep the rpms down and roll in the big gears.I enjoy jumping on it every once in a while too which lowers the mileage some..
 
Luugo86 said:
Nice looking little bike. I love the little singles.
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Thanks- me, too. They're surprisingly quick on the back roads and seem simple enough that even someone like myself can maintain them.
 
The CL's high-RPM performance problem appears to be solved! My battery wasn't completely flat but it was very low- it spent about 10 hours in series with the XL's battery on the charger at 12V/2A before they both read 100%. Unfortunately, though, after charging performance at high-RPM was unimproved. This morning I tried cleaning the point contacts again and resetting the timing. No dice. Since the XL parts aren't nearby, I then delved into the realm of the superstitious by disconnecting the buck converter powering my GPS (no improvement) and, finally, replacing the spark plug. It was the plug! I just got back from a 20-minute spirited test ride on a new D8EA. The headlight was lit the entire trip, I pinned the throttle dozens of times, yet the bike didn't hiccup once! It runs fabulously now. I checked the old plug- it looks fine and the gap is correct. Either it's a dud, this bike doesn't like D9EA, or there's some issue with my ignition system that makes these plugs incompatible with WOT. I have a couple new D9EA- in the interest of science I may pop one in this afternoon to investigate further.

Thanks for all your help and patience!
 
I'm glad to hear she's running a lot better Al;you used a 12vt2ah charger to charge 2) 6vt. batteries in series,that's new to me,I'm glad it gave you a solid charge.
The D8EA is the stock heat range plug and should be fine for all-around use but if you take it up to a steady 55+ mph for an extended time then I would install the D9EA.I imagine you could have fouled your D9EA even if it looks clean.. to explain further keep an eye carefully on the porcelain right next to the center electrode,if you see it looking at all shiny then you might have 'glazed' fouled it ??? sometimes it will get a few deposits on the center porcelain running around slow w/ that colder plug and then when you give it a blast toward top speed that will melt the old deposits a bit and then heat-glaze them like a clear coat to the porcelain which can steal spark away from the center electrode.I guess the D8EA is good for short hops but if you took a long high speed trip where you would keep the speed & load on the engine high all the time then the D9EA would be the one to use.The D8EA is a fairly cool running plug too but will get hot enough to burn-off the deposits from your engine under normal riding.
 
Thanks for the info on the spark plugs! Here are a couple shots of the D9EA I pulled earlier:

OG6134R.jpg


3RbeCYw.jpg


And here's the new D8EA with one trip of about 30 minutes of mixed riding:

KCQhVnM.jpg


(Sorry I can't get in closer with my mobile phone camera.)

I'm about to do another test ride- this time with a new D9EA. Everyone is on the edge of their seat, I'm sure!
 
AL,
Those 2 top pics of that dirty D9EA help,that plug has had too much slow running and the deposits built-up too much:it's Real Dirty and should be replaced.I think you should keep running the D8EA and only change over to the D9EA if you run the little 100 engine hard and fast continuously.
The stock plug for my XL/XR185S engine is also D8EA and I'll keep it in there during the break-in period and when i'm just doing speeds below 65mph;the engine doesn't work hard enough to need the D9EA unless i'm really running it hard.I hope to set the timing more accurately soon which will let the engine warm-up easier and then i'll be better able to tell what my carb. jetting should be as for now I have it a little on the rich side(dark brown color in the muffler outlet)to aid in break-in but I don't get peak power w/ this mixture/jetting.
 
That sounds like good advice, thanks. Can I clean the old D9EA with a wire wheel on my dremel, or at this point is it junk? I'm just curious- I have plenty of spares.

My ride tonight was a two-hour ~75 mile loop to my parents' place and back. You were right- the bike ran just as well with the new D9EA I installed just before the trip. It did miss at high speed a couple times, though. Only once was it very pronounced (like before)- after pulling out onto the highway after sitting at a red light for a bit. I did five or six highway miles total, and rode fairly spiritedly on the way there but took it easy on the way back.

4ZR2vLv.jpg
 
Thanks! I have a pesky off-idle stumble to deal with now (I even stalled it at a red light this evening), but it's a minor annoyance compared to the problem that was caused by the dirty plug.
 
iatethepeach said:
Thanks! I have a pesky off-idle stumble to deal with now (I even stalled it at a red light this evening), but it's a minor annoyance compared to the problem that was caused by the dirty plug.
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Make sure your pilot jet is clear and look at your air filter to be sure it's good and sealed around the mesh and then possibly adjust the pilot screw a bit to idle stronger.
 
grcamna5 said:
Make sure your pilot jet is clear and look at your air filter to be sure it's good and sealed around the mesh and then possibly adjust the pilot screw a bit to idle stronger.
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When I checked yesterday, the air filter was tight and the pilot jet appeared to be clean. I gave the jet a soak in carb cleaner and blew it and the carb passages out, anyway. There didn't seem to be any improvement in idle. Could the problem be with the throttle cable? How critical is the seal made by the rubber boot where the cable enters the top set cover? The cable on my bike looks original so it can't hurt to order a new one.
 
iatethepeach said:
When I checked yesterday, the air filter was tight and the pilot jet appeared to be clean. I gave the jet a soak in carb cleaner and blew it and the carb passages out, anyway. There didn't seem to be any improvement in idle. Could the problem be with the throttle cable? How critical is the seal made by the rubber boot where the cable enters the top set cover? The cable on my bike looks original so it can't hurt to order a new one.
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It looks like that rubber seal is available from Honda dealers still, and you can probably get it cheaper on eBay. Its listed on my dealers website for $6 and change, part number 16118-166-004

Anything that can cause a vacuum leak will affect your overall performance, but if it was significantly increasing the airflow you would notice a higher idle. Hows your carb boot? I'm not farmiliar with these carbs but some have a cluster of tiny holes that serves as a pilot passage as well.

Is your issue happening while you're standing still at an idle or when you're accelerating from a stop?
 
adventurco said:
It looks like that rubber seal is available from Honda dealers still, and you can probably get it cheaper on eBay. Its listed on my dealers website for $6 and change, part number 16118-166-004
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Thanks! As usual, I made a hasty assumption, figuring it was only available as part of the throttle assembly. I didn't even check for the individual part.

adventurco said:
Hows your carb boot? I'm not farmiliar with these carbs but some have a cluster of tiny holes that serves as a pilot passage as well.
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There isn't really a carb boot on the 100- the carb bolts to the head, sandwiching an aluminum standoff/flange thing and a plastic insulator between the two:

iAqG6AG.jpg


My insulator and gaskets are essentially new- I replaced them very recently. I checked the insulator for cracks when I removed the carb yesterday (it's some kind of high-temp plastic). Looked good.

adventurco said:
Is your issue happening while you're standing still at an idle or when you're accelerating from a stop?
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Both, but turning the idle speed up helps prevent the bog off-idle. This morning I took a nice ride before the sun came up and it ran beautifully. Of course, I only had to stop once or twice.

Here's a short clip I shot this morning:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zhv7VnFFbFg

The video makes it seem like the slide is sticking, but when I removed the air tube to check, the slide always snapped back cleanly. Maybe it tends to stick when I keep my hand on the grip? Either way, hands-off, the motor will idle up and down seemingly on its own.
 
Interesting. It doesn't sound like an issue with an air leak to me, in that case you'd likely have a higher than normal idle and it wouldn't settle. I would look toward maybe something on the electrical end


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