New Wiring No Spark

vidzgid

New Member
I'm working on wiring a new starter/kill switch and I'm wondering if my wiring is causing me to not have spark.

Here is the wiring diagram for the cb360
http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/WiringDiagrams/CB-CJ-CL360.jpg

Here are the wiring instructions for the new switch.
http://i.imgur.com/uUzCPsI.jpg

I've wired the starter accordingly, and it works fine. My kill switch is wired to the black/white wire coming from the "headlight control switch"(top left in the wiring diagram) And they both have ground, so that should work fine as well.

The new switch allows for two pass-throughs which I've connected the TL and HL wires from the original "headlight control switch"(top left in the wiring diagram).
I know its necessary to connect the SE and DY wires for my charging system, but is it necessary for spark?



Sorry if this is all very confusing. I'm not very experienced with this so please let me know how I can articulate better if need be.
 
Get a voltmeter. Start at the coils. the black wire to the coils should have battery volts on it when the switch is on. If you have 12V at the coil, then the problem is on the other side, wiring to the points and the points themselves. If you don't have 12V at the coil, then work backwards, tracing the wire, and checking where the 12V starts...

BTW, the CB360 is known for shorting the wire at the points. the terminal on the little nut on the points sticks up just far enough sometimes to short on the cover. Try checking for spark with the point cover off.

Replacing wires and switches without knowing where and if the power is going is a hard wayt to troubleshoot. Harbor Freight gives cheap voltmeters away, get one if you don't have one. ends a lot of mysteries.
 
Thanks for the info! So I found out that I did not have 12v coming into my switch at all! In the diagram there are two wires labeled "IG" marked up in the "headlight control switch." That is my 12v feed. I connected my "TL" "HL" "SE" and "DY" and "RUN/KILL" directly to the "IG's" So they'll be getting constant 12v. I have spark now, but should the TLHLSEDY be connected to the IG's?

In the diagram where does the B/W (RUN/KILL) wire going to the coils get its 12v from? Is it getting it inside the control switch?

Thanks!!! ;)
 
The Headlight works of the IG part of the switch.

The Brown wire is the tail light. If you wire this to IG, you will have no taillight on in the "Park" position of the switch, I doubt this is an issue. I never use "Park" myself because it runs the battery down. I think it is only for legal requirements.

The Brown/white stripe is the rest of the instrument lights.

Putting them all on the IG is ok., but the current may end up being a little high for the switch.

An option is to add a 12V replay, have the IG power the relay coil. Run a heavy gauge wire to the switch side of the relay, and throw all your lights on the other side of the switch. The IG switch will have less current through it, and the relay can handle the current with less voltage drop = brighter lights.

Fuse the feed to the relay.

Or you can replace the ignition switch at some point too.
 
The instruction booklet says 2-5 turns around the sparkplug wire. They show the coil as tightly wound. Your pictures of the installation show a random wound, loose wind. The yellow wire should be tightly wound and neat. The coils should lie next to each other.

Rich Ard's diagram is closest to the proper way. However, if I am following the instructions per diagram, the tail end of the wire should remain flat on the sparkplug wire. The tail should also be on the end going to the spark plug. No more then 5 wraps. Try 2. Your signal may be too strong, rather than too weak. Follow the instructions to the detail, at least at first.

The Coil wire can be used too. The Dyna system pulses the ground side, unlike a CDI, which pulses the positive side. Put the sense wire on the ground side (I believe it is a pink or blue wire on the coil for a Dyna System) and see if that works.

If the wire coil method works then, wrap the coil in electrical tape to keep it from unwinding.

I would use the coil method myself, less susceptible to noise.
 
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